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CAZ's Standard Cab Build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by cazinpa, Aug 25, 2017.

  1. Jun 3, 2018 at 3:37 PM
    #61
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,Haltech,meth, 750k

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    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 750,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 1.9” pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel,
    It’s the lower that’s the issue anyways, I’m still on my original uppers at 565,000
    But I replace my lowers every 150,000 to be safe,
    Thumbs up for your reg cab
     
  2. Jun 3, 2018 at 4:44 PM
    #62
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A few tweaks
    Glad to hear as I still haven't done them. That is a whole lotta miles you have there!
     
  3. Jun 3, 2018 at 4:51 PM
    #63
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,Haltech,meth, 750k

    Joined:
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    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
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    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 750,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 1.9” pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel,
    Haaaaa, just getting broken in :)

    2082AD8B-3E0A-4208-B743-EC59FA850297.jpg
     
  4. Jun 3, 2018 at 5:25 PM
    #64
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A few tweaks
    Fix it asap. Mine progressed very rapidly. I think wheeling tweaks the bed in this spot and makes it rust fast. Mine went from flawless to this in a year and a half!
     
    boostedka[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Jun 3, 2018 at 5:25 PM
    #65
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A few tweaks
    Looks clean!
     
    1997tacomav6[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Jun 4, 2018 at 4:32 AM
    #66
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A few tweaks
    Going to try a combination of this and welding at the bottom corners. Hopefully it will minimize warping and make for a nicer looking repair!

    Screenshot_20180604-072226.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2018
    boostedka likes this.
  7. Jun 20, 2018 at 12:17 PM
    #67
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    How did your fenders end up coming out?
     
  8. Jun 20, 2018 at 12:37 PM
    #68
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A few tweaks
    Should know this weekend. I finally got them glued in last night. Need to get a few supplies and move on to the filler.

    20180619_214842.jpg
     
  9. Jun 20, 2018 at 12:39 PM
    #69
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    Looks good. So you didn't do any welding to insert the new panels?
     
  10. Jun 20, 2018 at 12:42 PM
    #70
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A few tweaks
    I'm going to have to do a little at the bottom corners to fill in, but otherwise I used the 3m panel adhesive shown a few posts back. Pretty cool stuff!

    I cut off the support that used to be in there and am not supporting the new with anything but the plastic inner fender. We'll see how it goes...
     
  11. Jun 20, 2018 at 12:47 PM
    #71
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A few tweaks
    I flanged the patch panels to go in behind.

    Here is a picture with stripper on them. I stripped them to bare metal and used an epoxy primer.

    20180618_122526.jpg
     
  12. Jun 20, 2018 at 12:49 PM
    #72
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    Cool. I just assumed I was going to weld in the new panel completely. So that'll be interesting to see how that adhesive works out.

    My passenger is to the point that I need to just do it. This morning a small peice of the bubble rust fell out so there's a small hole I can see right through. It goes about 1" above my OEM fender flare for about a 3-4" section.
     
  13. Jun 20, 2018 at 1:02 PM
    #73
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, mine progressed really fast. It was bad - I had a paint bubble appear the day I cut it out. I pressed on it and water squirted out!

    The paint on the front was holding the rust flakes together.

    Here is the back of one of them - where my fingers are is the inside of the fender lip. The support is on the left - you can see where I cut it off.

    20180604_160812.jpg
     
  14. Jun 20, 2018 at 1:16 PM
    #74
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    Damn that's a of rust in there. Mine probably looks the same inside. How do the fenders feel without that support? Is it noticeably more flexible?
    I'm thinking of ordering one of these panels to use and just cut out what I need. It's only a small piece like yours that I'll need, though, so I don't know if that is overkill buying such a huge panel.
    https://raybuck.com/product/1995-04-toyota-tacoma-upper-rear-wheel-arch-passenger-side/
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2018
  15. Jun 20, 2018 at 4:27 PM
    #75
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    Pulled my flares off this afternoon. Passenger is worse than I thought. Drivers is not as bad. It’s mostly on the bottom. Could probably be covered back up by the flare. What do you think about this?

    949D9899-ECFB-4DBC-BF0E-CCE58FD80EC6.jpg
    AEBC3A4A-089F-44A1-88B3-485BE651F2C2.jpg
    50ABFE2E-3160-4F2D-86D4-F723CC880476.jpg
     
  16. Jun 20, 2018 at 4:50 PM
    #76
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Dang, that's way worse than mine was. Even your good side is worse...

    I'd fix it asap on both sides. It is worse than it looks behind the "good" side. Best to fix before it reaches the visible area beyond the flare.

    Mine is limited to the arch around the wheel well and the patch doesn't extend past the radius in the body where your flares stop so would be hidden.

    Is that rusted all of the way over to the gas door?
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2019
  17. Jun 20, 2018 at 5:08 PM
    #77
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    This is the drivers side I just cut up. 2nd pic the passenger marked for cut. It’s pretty close to the gas door. Just before it.

    A456E5B2-40F4-42D4-8E63-B6B73B912FDB.jpg
    image.jpg
     
  18. Jun 20, 2018 at 5:26 PM
    #78
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    And cut. Looks like it’s below that flare line.
    I still need to cut off more of the fender support as well since it's pretty rusty.
    What really worries me is that the passenger side has some rusting on the back side of the actual bed just about the wheel well plastic.

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2018
  19. Jun 20, 2018 at 6:24 PM
    #79
    cazinpa

    cazinpa [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A few tweaks
    Wow, you move fast!

    I pulled the inner fenders and cut the support up pretty high. Was just out checking my work now that it is dry. It is still pretty rigid without the support.

    Looks like you could use about anything to patch the fuel filler side since the flare covers it. I could cut you a chunk of front fender if I can find a spot that still has a similar curve.

    The other side is gonna be a little harder...
     
  20. Jun 20, 2018 at 7:00 PM
    #80
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    After seeing how effed up that passenger side was I figured I needed to get rid of that junk ASAP. I'm thinking I'm going to order one of those wheel arch panels for that passenger side and try to cut and weld in a new piece. Maybe even tack weld it and then use some of that 3M adhesive you linked. If you're able to cut out a chunk of fender to send me for the driver's side, that'd be great! It will get covered up by the flare so it won't need to be show quality or anything LOL. Thanks for the help and advice.
     

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