What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Well all old suspension us out on my 04 shit is rusty as hell yes new frame as well

 

Any suggestions on pressing out the upper balljoints

 

I used the ball joint press kit from the auto store

 

I have a press kit but the cups are the wrong size

 

Did you get the 4x4 kit?

 

So glad I don’t have a carrier bearing, seams like they go out all the time here.

 

I started on my seat project today. The shape and style of these Mazda Tribute seats is very similar to our stocks, but sooo much more comfortable. Here is a picture of them sitting in place before I started fine tuning the alignment. Managed to get them aligned pretty well today with some temporary bolts and metal plate. Off to the welders house sometime this week.

I’ll be upholstering these myself sometime soon. Bought a really nice sewing machine several months ago and have been practicing with various projects. I’m nearly comfortable enough with it to start doing some cool shit. I’ve been wanting leather SOO DAMN BAD, but lately I’m kind of leaning towards some rugged canvas. Anyone on here sew upholstery?

 

Mine made it 23 years, didn't actually fail, I changed it thinking it had failed though.

 

Just ordered some new front bump stops from @Plastics Guy, really excited to get them here in a few weeks. Got in on the first batch and they sound very promising, nice to have another option out there for 1st gens that doesn't involve modifying Wheeler's 2nd gen bumps to fit or going overboard with hydraulic bumps. Will report back on them in a month or so

 

Thx - I got impatient and went and used Permatex Right Stuff Black before reading this - it says it's rated to 450* and safe for coolant luckily.

 

Don't know about others but for me it's not "all the time". I've got 215K mi & still running on my factory one. Only replacing it cause the rubber is cracking. Otherwise I get no vibration at all but then again I do have a CB drop bracket. I've got the new CB now but not in a rush to put it on.

 

yes

 

Alright I'm a little stumped. My new to me transmission is bolted up to the engine and I went to re-install the clutch slave cylinder and I can't get it to line up with the bolt holes. The trucks been without a transmission for basically a year an I honestly can't remember if I ever stepped on the clutch pedal during that time. I read on another forum that I could open up the bleeder and push the slave cylinder in to make the push rod fit and when I did that last night it wouldn't budge. I read on another forum that you could use a C-clamp to compress the cylinder with the bleeder open if it wouldn't go by hand. Before I try that I could use some advice on whether this seems like it could solve the problem. This is my first time installing a transmission so I have no idea if there's something else causing the problem. I looked into the bell housing and it seemed like the clutch fork is seated nicely on the pivot ball and it slides back and forth like I assume it should.

Here's how far away I am from the bolt holes lining up when the clutch fork is all the way back and the rod is pinned between the cup in the slave cylinder and the cup in the clutch fork.



Here's what the slave cylinder looks like. Is it supposed to look like that when it's fully compressed or can it be pressed in so that the wide part of the piston is flush with the cylinder?



Here's the clutch fork



@mechanicjon @Speedytech7

Edit - looks like the slave cylinder may be seized up. Ordered a new one!

 

Push the slave cylinder piston in. Looks normal to me.

 

Go with the c-clamp and bleeder valve open technique you're saying?

I drained the master cylinder a fair bit last night so I bought some dot 4 brake fluid. If it works I'm guessing I should just flush the system?

 

If crack the bleeder valve you should be able to push it in by hand.

 

Tried that last night - wouldn't budge - maybe I'm a girly man

 

Same here. Mine made it almost exactly 20 years.

But I found someone who bought a 2nd gen and wanted to get rid of an OEM bearing he never used so I replaced it for $50.

 

Use a clamp. The clutch pedal is all the way up correct?

 

Yes, but that shouldn't matter once the bleeder valve is open since there's no mechanical connection between the slave and master cylinders right?

Edit - tried a slider clamp and same thing. I'm thinks it's seized in there after sitting for a year and it was rusty before that. Next step is replace the slave cylinder I'm guessing. Looking for the best price on a quality one. Is Aisin the way to go?

$33 AISIN CRT-014 OE Matched Clutch Slave Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota 4Runner, T100, Tacoma, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JZDAW6

Paid $4 to have this here by the 3rd - otherwise it was the 5th and the suspense was too much. Lol I want to see if I made a mistake putting the trans in or not.