NJ B.S. Thread

That’s how it went down. I forgot Dave was riding with you that day. He jumped right in. In on fixing the U-joint I mean.

 

Once in awhile @Braves95 can be helpful.

 

I just wanted to get back to wheeling. And the was the fastest way. Hehe

 

Here’s a look at bolt on sliders removed 4 years after install. I’m removing to clean them up, skin the top like a step, and repaint, as well as coat the frame rail and plates with anti-seize like butter on toast. Not saying the corrosion is that bad but it’s there and if I let the sliders stay bolted on longer than it would most def manifest to frame rot. If I was to do it over again I’d do weld on sliders. And no I’m not gonna cut this set up and weld them on.. wanna see how all the anti-seize does. Possibly next go around I’ll weld them on if I get the same corrosion results.

 

That's not bad for four years. Unfortunately any time two pieces of material are sandwiched together without any seal between them, water will infiltrate and corrosion will ensure.
Perhaps a bead of seam sealer around the perimeter of the mating surfaces would stop water ingress. Also the bolt holes would have to be similarly treated.

 

Good thing you took them off sooner than later.

Instead of anti-seize, what about a nice thick fay seal with a light bonding sealant, along with a fillet along the edges/holes and wet installing the hardware? Should keep the entire area moisture free.

I would think welding them on would produce the same results, at least with bolt on you can remove them easier and treat the corrosion issues every few years.

 

Yea yupp most def. That’s why I’m thinking anti seize as a lubricating barrier between the plates and frame. It may deter water from getting in without such space and/or allow the water/mud to dry without creating corrosion. In theory.

 

Winner!!

 

I feel like this could also happen with weld on sliders if they aren't welded all the way around, right?

 

Yea I’d assume.. moisture can get in anywhere, or just going through water crossings and mud holes would get in there.

 

Ahhhhhh.....

 

You can say that again !
Where at?

 

Family cabin in the Poconos. Lake Manzanedo in Price.

 

Oh Pennsltucky... Thought it was New Hampy

 

Hey don't insult us like that get it right
"PENNSYLTUCKY" lol

 

Tried plasma cutter for the first time. I suck at it.


Gonna put it down. Take a deep breath. Regroup. Watch some yoo-toob tutorials tonight and try again tomorrow.



I need to get some little fab/welding projects done and my TC Cam Tabs.

 

You don’t need a tutorial. You need a straight edge clamped to what you’re cutting and some extended tips.

 

I can do a straight edge. What speed do you drag the top across the material?

Also gotta figure out Amp the settings I need for 240v.

So I need to increase the amps or slow my speed across the material to make a clean cut?

I don’t think the Plasma Arc version has extended tips. I’ll check.

 

I’m not an expert by any means. If you turn up the amps and air pressure, and slow down, you’ll get through the material.

The stand off should help. With the extended tips, mine runs better and I don’t see the need for a stand off.

These are what I use
PT-31 LG-40 Plasma Tip Nozzle Electrode Extended Cutting Consumable CUT-50 CUT-40D 40pcs

$14 RIVERWELD 40pcs ESAB L-TEC PT-31 JG-40 WSD-LG40 Plasma Electrode 18205L Tips Nozzle Extended 18866L Shroud Shield Cup 18204 Kit Fit CUT 50D 50 40 Plasma Cutter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNOYQ68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XTLzBb54D2044

Looks like you changed your head though?