Installing rear shims- any good how to?

Hey, I bought the 3 degree shims from Toytec for 1/4" rear lift. I already have 5100s and a 3/2 lift but want to restore a very slight rake, she sits exactly level now. I tried to install the shims and ran into trouble getting the axle separated enough from the leaf, and the pin was locked in the hole by the pressure of the different leaves moving against each other apparently. I didn't dare pound it out because I would not have gotten the new pin in, especially from underneath the leaf pack. Is there a good video or how to thread out there?

Thanks, Dan.

 

If I was installing shims. I’d remove the whole leaf pack and rebuild it.

 

Hmmmm, didn’t even think of that. Might just be the way to go ..

 

No video but....

1) with vehicle on ground crack u bolts loose. Don’t fully remove them.
2) two jack stands forward of leaf spring to hold vehicle high up. Under cab. I would say cheap standard size jack stands aren’t the best. The taller the better.
3) obviously remove tires. Put floor jack under diff. Have the slightest amount on weight on it.
4) remove lower shock bolt. Knock shock out from holder on axle. If you want more work completely remove shock.
5) pick either drivers or passengers to start. Remove u bolts. Remove bump stops.
6) lower floor jack under diff. Axle should drop on its own to a point. You will have to shake a little or put your body weight into it. The floor jack is the fulcrum and the whole opposite side is fighting you. This is where having taller floor jacks holding the vehicle higher helps because if the floor jack is at the lowest point and can’t go lower you’ll never get separation of leafs and axle.

7) axle drops, you can now see the pin under the leafs
8) grab the strongest c clamps you got from your grandpa as hand-downs. Clamp either side of the leafs.
9) find them ol faithful vise grips you use for everything you shouldn’t. Put the lightest grip you can do with them and hold the lower part of pin. Top side loosen the nut.
10) 3 degree shim with new bolt or without... either way figure out what you got to knock that bolt up the hole with new shim. Remember fat in the back. Skinny in the front.
11) make sure it’s tight.
12) next part sucks but works pretty well if you have a ratchet strap. It’s either going to go one way or the other. Make a loop around the brake drum, and click that ratchet to pull the axle forwards or backwards which ever way you need. Use a frame hole as place to pull from. Same time raise floor jack.
13) technically you shouldn’t be reusing old u bolts.
14) u bolts and bump stops back on. Don’t torque until the wheels are on the ground.
15) throw the shock back in with bolt.
16) that side is pretty much done go do the other side.
17) drink beer as you go.

Should be pretty much all of what you need to do.

 

^ This is essentially what I tried. My issues were getting the existing pin out and new one in. I started on the driver side and couldn't get the axle down far enough to get the old pin out or the new one in because the brake lines are on that side and limited the down travel. Also, the pin was stuck in there hard. I did use C clamps but maybe not soon enough and possibly not large enough ones either.

 

Check out the aal install threads or videos on you tube. You need to remove a few brake line brackets to drop that axle down. I just installed a Wheeler’s 2” aal this weekend. There’s good info out there.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/aal-install-second-gen.54186/

Found a thread with photos

 

Thanks guys. I ill check out the t AAL thread/s. Seems like useful tip about torquing the U bolts after the wheels are on the ground too.

 

That thread makes sense and helps a lot. Thanks again!