TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I might have good news for those who may want to switch over to copper. I have to announce that unfortunately as of right now there are no documented spark plugs with a heat range equivalent to 8 (NGK) or 24 (Denso) which have the necessary reach of 26.5mm required to run them while maintaining their 14mm plug threads and required 5/8" (16mm hex head) for our truck engines.

The silver lining here of course is that heat range 8 or 24 NGK/ Denso plugs are actually going to be overkill for the majority of us and all you will do is simply foul them out sooner due to poorer burning of fuel (will actually raise HC emissions) since the plug is of a colder heat range or in other words less ceramic within the plug to absorb heat before it releases it to the cylinder head.

So with saying that Heat range 6/22, NGK/ Denso plugs will suit any of us running 2.5 pulley's outside of running nitrous or possibly E85.

I have actually found a direct full copper V-power replacement for Heat range 6/22's In the NGK version.

Part#

$6 LFR6C-11 V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1

LFR6C-11/ 7787 NGK

Drawback: You will likely have to narrow their gapping down to your desired specification.

 

Ive always used IKH22s. I don’t think the TRD blower regardless of mods benefits from the 24s. But once you start pushing over 400whp then I’d jump up. And nobody is getting over 400 with the TRD blower unless they use NOS or have internal engine mods like sleeves etc.. and significantly raising the redline.

 

When you take the top cover off, the intercooler stays with it. So you don’t have to open the coolant lines. Just lay a towel over the driver side of the engine bay and lay that part off to the side. I’ve done this 3 times.

 

Agreed. After doing some pretty extensive research I found that

$9 IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

IKH22 equivalent plugs actually are barely hot enough to cover the initial measly 60hp increase in power the TRD blower comes with. Technically speaking you could get away with running IKH20 (OE NA) equivalent plugs and still be at the upper tier of okay. A step colder is not required until you have run your engine up anywhere from 75 to 100HP additional. Fascinating stuff. Cheers to learning new things every day! I look forward to my plug exchange tomorrow!

 

thats what I was hoping for

 

And having to change them more frequently.

 

Well, I agree, the Iridiums may be good to 100K miles Roost but running boost through them does not necessarily make them reliable to 100K. I have come to accept that I will be consistently changing my plugs at 30-35K from this point forward so I am totally fine with having to swap them out periodically really.

 

I own at least one of just about every extension, wobble, socket & ratchet (1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 drive) and in many cases have doubles as well. I couldn't get the driver's side plugs out w/o pulling the s/c. I read a few posts over the years from those saying it was possible and I really wanted it to be possible but in the end I wasted 2x longer trying to do it than it would have taken to pull the s/c and swap them out. In the end I pulled the s/c and swapped them out anyway and wish I had just done that from the beginning. I would also advise getting a new belt as 1) they're fairly inexpensive and 2) you're in there anyway so no additional labor is required. That's the other reason I wish I had planned to pull it in advance because I would have had the belt on-hand to swap out too. As it sits I've got a new belt that's been sitting in my garage for like a year because I haven't made the time to go swap it out.

 

Completely agree! I have full access to a machine shop with many tools, and a mechanical shop. Pulling the supercharger to change driver side plugs is a must. I've spent hours looking over the engine bay wondering how individuals claim to do it without removing the charger. My thoughts always leave me to believe that they must be magical beings.

 

Something learned long ago in maintenance is:
1 get away from your work meaning using extensions or whatever for easier access
2 remove parts to make it easier to replace the part you need to.
As others have stated I have spent hours trying to change a part out when I could have removed a part that was in the way in 15 minutes then change the actual part in 15 minutes saving a whole bunch of time in the end.
You think it's more work removing more parts but it makes things so much easier and saves so much time.

 

ok to lazy to search who can help me. how many turns on the screw on the 76mm throttle body?

 

If I remember correctly 1.

 

Counter clockwise 1 turn. Mark it first for reference.

 

awesome thanks!

 

1 CCW turn worked perfect for me.

@o0opackersfano0o will you be running the sprint booster with the 76mm TB? How's your takeoff's with the sprint booster?

 

i dont have a sprint booster. running a 76mm now. just got another one and gonna port and polish it a little and do the supercharger inlet this winter

 

(taken from build thread)

Finally took the time to make the mounts for both the resi and intercooler pump. I went back and forth quite a bit on how "good" I should make the mounts. I ended up not half-assing it, which ended up taking a full day to do this project.

Here is the final product for the resi mount. I ended up notching two sections out: 1 for the electrical connections on the ARB compressor and another for the blue rear locker hose.


This mount enabled me to resposition the resi like it should go, oriented the same as if it were located on the driver side wheel well.


For those that saw how the hoses ran before, you will see this is a drastic difference in cleanliness AND the hose going into the resi is not running beside the header on the passenger side! haha (@White lightning boosted)


For the Pump, I was getting close to just using self tapping screws and drilling into a piece to mount the 2 rubber clamps and call it a day. Then I thought maybe take a little more time and mount a bracket to this yellow plug that already had its own mount and seem sturdy...as I was going to unscrew one of the bolts holding this yellow clip/sensor on, I thought it could potentially be an airbag sensor since there was on located symmetrically on the driver side. So I took a pic of it, ran inside and googled the numbers on the sensor and sure enough it was the airbag sensor. This is where I decided to not jeopardize the work or the safety of the vehicle since my family still rides in the truck and it is a DD. I scrapped everything I was thinking and buckled down to make a mount just for the pump. you will see it is still near the sensor, but does not contact the mount or sensor in any way. I feel much better about this set up than my original idea: sandwiching an "L" shaped piece of sheet metal between the sensor and mounts for the airbag, and calling it done. I felt vibrations from that could mess with the sensor and possibly trigger it while driving.


In the pic, you can see the yellow airbag sensor and the mount I was going to use. Instead, I took the time to drill through the entire support bracket, bought 2 2.5" x 1/4" grade 8 bolts to fix the mount to the "radiator sub support" (??) bracket. This made the mount VERY solid and I felt much better about my decision after taking the time to do this.


3 coats of paint/primer combo I figured would be sufficient.




Here the pump is test fitted to make sure the height would be right while having enough room for the new bumper frame horns AND room for the winch.


It looks like a perfect fit.


Final placement with the hoses cut to fit and secured


This shows how the new routing of the hose could be direct to the pump with no kinks and an overall cleaner job.


Here is the new routing of the hose from pump to LTR. Before, I had about 2' of excess hose sagging down on the bumper and it was awful. Now, nothing hangs below and I have room for the winch.


Everything works great with zero issues. Glad I took the time to do what I thought was a more "right" job.

 

I literally do not understand how you guys are not able to do the plugs with the blower in. I just finished the job and It only took me an hour to do again. The only thing that I had difficulty with as usual is the drivers side front coil plug, the rest was easy. On the drivers side I removed the upper 12mm bolt for the bracket that ties the blower to the engine and loosened the lower bolt so I could move it out of the way. I used a long 1/4 extension and swiveling 10mm to remove the 10mm bolts holding the coils, a pocket flathead screwdriver and a standard size flathead to move the plugs off and out of the coils, and then would twist the coils around to accommodate their removal. Once out I used a 5/8" swivel plug socket a small 4" 3/8 extension just enough to clear the spark plug tube then attached another swivel adapter and finally a 8-10" long 3/8 extension to clear the blower then attached a Makita impact driver with a 3/8 adapter end. The stuff came out incredibly easy and incredibly quick. I reversed the process for install then once in gave the plugs a nice torque down with a standard snap on 3/8 rachet to make sure they were Guttentite. (That was my torque spec)

As far as the plugs go, crisp, clean idle, no more knock that I would get at random acceleration (because they were too cool a heat range and were also fouled out) and the engine just seems so much happier now. AFR actually leaned out a little, which I'm actually happy about because it has been on the tad rich side for a while. Overall, worthwhile work today.

Moral of the story, stick to heat range 22 (Denso) or 6 (NGK) plugs unless you have EXTREME mods.

 

Well done @Skootter14 !

 

thanks