ramonortiz55's scandalous build - if it doesn't feel right, you're doing it right

Sorry! Been at the beach bro!

 

Picked up some bed stiffeners from local fabricator - Rago Fabrication and decided to do a quick write up on the installation process.

Very easy and quick installation. I would say it took me about an hour to complete - I like to take my time





The two bolts that need to be removed to install the stiffeners are located here:



Two different torx are required for the D ring and the Bed bolt. The torx were not found at my local autoparts store, I had to pick them up at Lowes.:





Stiffener were mocked up, per the instructions: Do NOT tighten them. Just start the threads and rattle the stiffeners for a level and square installation.



Once the you are satisfied with the final fitment of the stiffeners, start a pilot hole and drill the three holes for the three bolts on the vertical leg.



Remove stiffeners, drill out hole to required bolt size. I decided to paint over the holes to reduce the possibility of corrosion.





While the paint dries, remove the taillight:







This will allow you to install the bolts in the vertical leg:



Now tighten all five bolts to secure the stiffener and repeat on other side:



Pictures showing how bed mat interferes with stiffener.





Does not bother me at all.

This concludes this writeup.

 

wtf​

 

wuut?

 

​

Nice place you have here!

 

After having my Front Runner roof rack sit in the garage for about 3 years, I finally came around to installing it

This is what a box looks like after being in storage for 3 years:



Opened up the goods and inspected them, great quality!



Well, a little more than three years



Some assembly required:



After putting together the rack, i cleaned up the roof since it would be the last time it will be washed. Ever.



Remove weatherstripping, careful! Do not bend or break the weatherstripping:



After removing weatherstripping, the channel will look like this.



Locate these three spots in the roof channels, there will be three per side. This is where the roof rail bolts are threaded into.



Using a utility knife, criss cross cut the holes and peel out:





Check bolt clearance by starting the bolts



One of the bolt holes was not lining up with the roof skin. So I dremeled out the hole a little bit to allow the bolt to thread properly:





Thread the bolts all the way down flush with the roof profile:



When the wife is gone, grab her nail polish and dab the bolt heads, this will allow proper markings on the roof strips for cutting out the holes:





Using the dremel, I cut 1/2" past each hole. Careful not to cut past the flat face side of the weather strip!





Using a punch, I knocked out holes for the Front Runner Spacers:



After all the holes were punched out, I cleaned out the roof channels and weather strip with alcohol, this will allow the silicone sealant to adhere and waterproof correctly:





I added masking tape to prevent getting some silicone onto the truck. Once I set the spacers and weatherstripping, I filled each hole with silicone:



After setting both roof rails onto the spacers and bolting down, I set the rack onto the roof rails and bolted them down:



The fin was touching the roof rack, so I had to add some washers between the roof rack and the rails to provide some clearance. I am not bothered at all:





Threw the water hose on top of the truck and let it spray water for a good 30 minutes per side to check for any leaks:





No leaks!



Check for rattles or loose bolts:



Installed all my bolt caps:






Things to note, lessons learned:

1. When building the roof rack, make sure to place the bolts that attach the crossbars to the rails before installing the wind deflector. These bolts are shown in the last photo above, at the top. I had already installed the wind deflector and had to remove it to slide the bolts in.

2. You will need one tube of silicone, get the clear type. Do not get caulk. Get Silicone.

3. Have a dremel handy in the event that the bolt holes in the roof do not line up properly to allow bolt to screw in. You NEED a dremel. There is no cutting the hole bigger with a knife or forcing the bolt thru.

4. Have washers handy in the event your rack hits the shark fin.

5. The short washers go in the middle! Sometimes, even by placing the short washers in the middle, the rack will still hit the shark fin. Like my case. So keep washers handy.

 

No one was able to confirm if a 3rd gen bedslide fit a 2nd gen Tacoma.

After verifying dimensions online, provided by Bedslide, and @willp07 I decided to pull the trigger and risk it. Figured if it doesn't fit, I could sell it locally and take a loss.

After sitting in the garage for nearly a month, I installed a 3RD GEN TACOMA BEDSLIDE in a 2ND GEN TACOMA


With Bedrails:



Gap between the wheel well and edge of Bedslide:






It was very cloudy today, will post better picture of gap on a sunny day:





Decided to take the rails off, just as I took them off it started raining:

 

I think I’m going to go this route with the 3rd Gen Bedslide in a 2nd Gen Bedslide. Did you drill into the bed? I’m trying to avoid that and reuse the bed bolts and fab up something to connect to the Bedslide.

 

After being harassed in this thread, I took advantage of our local stay at home order and started installing some stuff!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/i-have-a-problem-i-buy-parts-and-never-install-them.663231/

I have a few pictures and writeups to add to this build thread

 

First install was important - This was a big three upgrade to pave the way for a switchpros and powertrays install.

Never really found a true write up for a big three upgrade, so I figure I could put one together. The install is straightforward but figured it would be good for those contemplating the mod.



The negative and positive cables were removed from the battery:





The cables will be completely extracted from the truck, therefore everything must go. Here we remove the ground off the fender:



Then I reached down and remove the wiring harness from a wiring clamp:



Save it for later:



Then I removed the mud guards in the fender well of the driver's side. This allowed some access to the wiring that runs to the starter.



See that ground there? - the one on the coil frame support right under the UCA, must be removed as well.





Once that is removed (not shown as removed in this picture), there will be a plastic cover that houses the wiring for the alternator and starter. Remove this cover, be patient. It is stubborn.



I removed the skid plate to look around and see if I needed to remove other stuff related to the wiring. Might be a good idea to remove it in case you need to reach in there for some oddball reason



Then the tedious work: Removing the wire loom and all the electrical tape holding the wiring together.





Work in progress:



Once all the tape and loom is removed there will be nothing but loose wiring, it is time to disconnect the starter wiring and ground. In this picture the starter wiring is wrapped in the foil looking insulation:



Remove starter plug and ground:



At this time, all the ground cables can be pulled out. Here is a comparison picture with the replacement upgrade:



See this black wire with blue line? This goes to the alternator FROM the inside of the fuse box.



It connects in here:



See this black wire? It comes from UNDER the fuse box. This wire will be routed INTO the fuse box and placed where the alternator cable is connected as shown in the above picture. We will get to that later.



Let's disconnect the alternator cable. I removed this bracket that is over the alternator for ease of access:



Once the alternator cable has been disconnected, disconnect the alternator cable from INSIDE the fuse box and pull it out.

At this point, the stock power cable and the fuse box to alternator cable can be completely removed. Here is a comparison picture with the upgrade wiring.

For reference, the longest red cable will run to the starter. The mid length red cable will run DIRECTLY to the alternator. The shorter cable will run into the INSIDE of the fuse box where the alternator cable was originally at. We will get to that soon, patience!



Red shorter cable running into the INSIDE of the fuse box:





Routed wiring to starter and alternator:



Reinstalled loom, taped wiring neatly and reinstalled clamp:







Not all the wiring fits in the wiring housing, so I routed the alternator wiring on the outside:



Reinstalled more loom:



Remember the wiring that comes from UNDER the fuse box? - run it INTO the fuse box using the same routing as the alternator cable that was removed earlier.



I removed a side cover and some plugs to allow ease of routing:



It is a TIGHT fit, but will work:



Reinstall plugs and side cover:



Connected positive and ground leads to battery:





Big thanks to @Denk for explaining what goes where via pictures here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ig-3-plus-closed.391316/page-29#post-23206848

 

Time to install the switchpros and power tray!

This writeup will be picture heavy, so multiple posts will probably need to be created.

I purchased the following powertray kit and expedition essentials switch pro bracket:

https://www.powertrays.com/collecti...-powertray-05-current-tacoma-trd-off-road-pro

https://expeditionessentials.com/co...ts/switch-pros-mount-toyota-2nd-gen-2005-2015

A good power station install is vital at the beginning of every build. Pretty much every mod done to a vehicle will include some sort of wiring. I decided to use a switchpro that I had in the garage for a few years and mount it to a powertray and expedition essentials bracket.

That being said, let's start with the meat and potatoes of this install.

First thing was to remove the overhead console.



There is a screw in the rear sunglass holder that needs to be removed:



Once it is removed, grab the console firmly from the front and tug firmly but carefully:



The overhead console is held by these rear claws:



and

These front tabs:



Unplug two wires:





This "abandoned" plug is for a compass/temp mirror if you ever wondered what it's doing up there.



Time for surgery:





Here is our expedition essentials switch pro mount:







The switchpro fits very snug in the mount, love it.





Install switchpro supplied brackets and screws to secure it in place



Once it is in place, I put it in the sunglass holder and played around with the fitment.







Open/Close, make sure that it clears and does not rub any





Now we need to make some templates for these screws:



Use the supplied Expedition Essentials template paper:







I traced each of these ears onto it and located the screw holes:





Cut them out:



I then fit them against the sides of the sunglass holder like this:





You kinda notice when the template lines up with the actual bracket ears. I had to trim the template once or twice to get it right.



Time for some pilot holes:



Perfect!



Thread in screws:



Now time to notch out the back end of the console to allow the pigtail connection:



As always, safety first:



Notched!



Now move on to the actual Power Tray build!







Building the Power Tray is pretty much straighforward, plenty of pictures for reference:











Attach the ground link between the Blue Sea Fuse Box and Bus Bar



Connect the Switchpros wiring and start building the connections!



For this switchpros model, I only need to build the red wiring for now. I zip tied the loom, blue wire, yellow, and black wire just to get them out of the way.





Powertrays will provide the needed connectors!



Pay attention to the wiring notation in the instruction booklet and the back of the plug, this will ensure that you know what goes to what accessory in the future:





Notice 8,16 for switch 8 output? - Those will be crimped together at ONE connector.



These will not be needed, Power Trays has provided the required cables:



I trimmed down the red wires to about 13", this allows plenty of slack for future trims and modifications.



Adding connectors:



Don't tell the wife we are using her blow dryer for shrink wrap:



I am using this soldering iron to melt the connectors and provide a waterproof seal. I am not using the tip, just the side of the ... shaft. The thicker portion of the....shaft:



Sex:





Time to mount the powertray:





It BARELY Clears the hood strut:



See these breathers? - Remove the bracket that holds them:



The existing hole will be used to mount the Power Tray leg as shown:



Installing that tray is a pain in the nalga, but man does it look GREAT!



Now to run the wiring!

Remove the bottom and side kick panels:









The side panel is held by these





Prepare the wiring:



See that grommet? - Run the wiring thru there:



I used a hangar to run it thru the grommet, it was a PAIN:





You can barely see where it comes thru the grommet, sorry for the weird orientation:



Ran the loom behind all the electrical boxes in the left kick panel area:



Thru this void in the fuse panel area:



At this point I removed the grab handle:



Pulled the loom thru this hole:



Traced it along an existing loom, I later zip tied both together (pictures not shown)



Ran up the headliner:





Fished thru the overhead console opening:



Connected the switch pro and other harnesses, installed overhead console!



Checked for cleareances:



Reinstalled grab handle:



Now to finalize wiring the switchpro:

Black wire went to ground:





Power Tray grounded to fender:





I then fished the blue/yellow wires into the fuse box:





The main issue with the blue and yellow wire is WHERE to tap them. I used @Coop68 recommendations here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...mation-discussion.439310/page-3#post-13459606

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ation-discussion.439310/page-18#post-23205487

Pulling this fuse for the blue wire, 10AMP EFI:





and this fuse for the yellow wire, 10AMP "H-LP RH-LO":





Then tapped to those locations with an add a fuse:



Again, using @Coop68 pictures shown in the above two links to aid in what I did.

Then I connected the buss bar to the battery terminal and connected the switchpros/blue sea fuse box:



We have power! - @Coop68 did mention that the lighting on the powertray will brighten during high beams, I am okay with that. Since the switchpro will remain hidden most of the time anyways. Here are pictures:





Final pictures:

 

Special thanks to @Mr.PowerTrays and @Jeff@ExE for answering all my questions in regards to the installation

 

I recently had the roof rack removed, so I took the opportunity to install my BD light bar:





These are Front Runner Light Bar brackets for my BD light bar:



Install is a piece of cake:







The most common question is, where do route the wiring?

I used 12 GA wire for power and ground, these fit perfectly in between the frame and windshield of the truck. I placed a few dabs of black adhesive caulk in that channel to prevent the wiring to fly out (pictures not shown):



Ran the wiring under the cowl:



Connected to switchpros:



Tada!

 

For reference, this was an S8 BajaDesigns light bar, 40 inch.

The brackets used where purchased from @Goose8651. Per Goose, they were Front Runner's brackets from this link:

https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/led-light-bar-rack-mount-brackets.html

Front Runner Product code: RRAC124

 

The wiring that runs along the firewall was not secured at the moment these pictures were taken. I will get back to that later in another writeup.

 

I have a hard on for BD lights. I had these hidden under the bed ready to be installed:



A nice upgrade from the PIAA fog lights I currently had:



For reference, everyone wants to know what color wiring goes to what:






Install was a breeze, the BD lights come with decent and easy to understand instructions:

 

Now to install some ditch lights!

Picked up some @ragofabrication stainless steel hood brackets:



Mounted some lights:



Ran the wiring along the firewall, zip tied it to the existing factory wiring:





Connected to Switchpros:

 

For reference, the BD lights that were used were:

Amber Fog light Kit Wide Cornering - https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/Toyota-Tacoma-Tundra-4Runner-Squadron-Sport-Amber-WC.asp - BD Item - 44-7115

Squadron Pro Spots - https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/squadron-pro-pair-spot-led.asp - BD Item - 49-7801

 

I plan on having a fridge for my camping trips and needed a good power point in the bed:



Decided to mount it on the passenger side, right above the existing bed outlet:



I love templates!





Removed the existing cubby box to allow access:



Drilled holes and ran wiring:



Then drilled some small pilot holes for the mounting screws:



I then decided to whore out the caulking to help water proof these connections:



Not pretty, but I dont care:



Installed panel and ran wiring directly to battery for a simple operational test:





Now let's run the wiring, using an existing loom I followed and merged with zipties:



Following along the frame:





Moar zipties!



Ran the wiring up the fender on the passenger side:



Up the fender and into the engine bay. Cowl was removed for other reasons, no need to remove for this project:



Ran the wiring in some loom along with the wiring from the light bar from a previous install:



Time for some connectors:



Ran directly to Blue Sea fuse box for an "always hot" application:





Final Picture:

 

The blue sea outlet came with a small 2 AMP fuse, I CUT that out and attached the wires together.

There is no point in having a fuse back there and another fuse that the Fuse Block terminal. Figured the fuse at the Blue Sea Terminal was easier to access in the event of failure.