PrInSu Design Studio Roof Racks BS Thread

For those that are running lightbars.. how did u run cable to rooftop?

 

I'm not running a light bar, but am running scene lights off either side and a pair of S2 sports off the back. I ran the wires through split loom (like this: https://www.amazon.com/225FWY-Condu...571346&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=split+loom&psc=1) and down along the edge of the driver's side windshield. Its held in place by a double sided tape (gorilla tape).

I think it's possible to run a couple of wires right along the outside of the windshield. There's a small channel there.

 

I tucked mine under the rubber flap by the corner of the windshield, then up the A pillar in the channel between it and the glass.

Edit: a friend of mine found a piece of that c channel stuff you use to run cables along a baseboard in your house. He painted it black and stuck it to the edge of the windshield. If he hadn't pointed it out, I wouldn't have even noticed it.

this stuff:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-1-...hannel-Cord-Cover-White-Cord-Cover/1000282079

 

What an atomic pain in the ass that install was

 

Please share pain points and any tips please! Mine should be here tomorrow!

 

2 people sure makes it easier but one can do it.

 

I'm about to order about 3 of these:

$28 Permatex 85913 Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 7.25 oz. PowerBead Can,Package may vary

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM4BK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

You think that will be enough?

 

For the Prinsu? If so I used black to better match my dark vehicle but you don't need much really. This 3oz tube was more than enough.
Permatex 81158 Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz. Tube

$6 Permatex 81158 Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz. Tube, Pack of 1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ev0HBbWA1F7WG

 

Assembly was great. Do it on a level surface upside down per instructions and it should be square.

The difficulty lies within your perfectionism. I opted to keep weatherstripping, which involved drilling holes. Again, instructions were fine minus the aluminum band running down the strip I had found out about. If your holes are the slightest skewed, the spacers block your straight entry into the hole which leaves much asspain to be had. I received the rack around 12, had it assembled well before 1, didn't start install til 2:30, and didn't finish until 7ish including a harbor freight run for prep material (bits, silicon, and a moving blanket).

Again, you can't see the missing weatherstripping if you opt against it, but I would know, and that's enough of a reason for me. If you ditch it or make the holes excessively big (I drilled one size larger and they were still snug), the adjustability of the spacers isn't limited and I'm sure it's 100x easier.

Edit: I used half a normal sized tube of silicon.

 

I decided to just cut off the ends front and rear up to the first bracket for a cleaner look. Didn't want to mess with lining up the holes.

 

Appreciate the feedback man. Did you go punch or paddle bit?

 

Yeah, figured it'd be much easier that way, I was just hopeful it'd be forgiving.

Paddle, went through fine as long as you hold tension on both sides. Basically, stretch the rubber while you drill it.

 

My cab rack is arriving in a week or two (i hope). Other than 6 hours due to my OCD, 4 beers to pace myself and some silicone, what do I need to get for the install?
I see some comments about the spacers being chrome - not good - but some saying that has changed. Is everyone pretty sure that are black now? Any of the other hardware still chrome?

 

On mine only thing not black was 10 roof mounting bolts. Painted head and washers black before install and touchup after install. Blanket or towels for roof just in case and to set your tools. Came in handy for me since I did it alone.

 

Thanks! I'll dig around for the moving blanket for sure.
Forgot to mention that I will be taking off the factory roof rack - any tips in the thread on that or how it affects the install?

 

Makes install easier. Use same holes as factory rack so you don't have to dig them out. Just have to clean up some sealant. Removal is easy, just reverse of this install.
https://youtu.be/qLd7Elu2FjM

 

I loosely assembled ensuring all hardware was there and determined using lower holes for wind screen. I also made sure mounting bolts threaded into the roof. Wouldn’t want to find out they don’t bite after you apply the silicon and race against it drying. I was installing by myself so I disassembled, siliconed each mounting hole, applied spacers and loosely installed each rail then cross rails. I tightened each mounting bolt and discovered the left side rail touched the roof. I removed the back two bolts, added a washer on top of the two spacers to raise the rail and re installed the bolts. The rail didn’t touch the roof anymore. Tightened each bolt, visually centered which was good to go and used a right angle to ensure square. Let silicon dry for 24 hours. Stood on top to celebrate.

 

I did this exact same thing except I didn't need any washers. But this reminded me that I lined the entire length of the gutters with painter's tape on both side in case it touched. Not inside the gutter but the roof itself.

 

Is it general consensus that its easier to manage by yourself if you disassemble before install?

Those tabs are overkill - especially unnecessary to be so close to the roof. Its the one part of the design that really made me hesitate.

 

I threw a sweat shirt on my roof and layed each cross rail on it and lined up the holes to the rail.