2TR-FE AEM F/IC-6 Installation Guide

Hey TW members/lurkers,

Firstly I'd like to give credit to Mudthedoor's thread on the AEM F/IC-6 for explaining the basic functions of the AEM, as well as a guide on how to install it for a 5vzfe motor. You can find that thread here if you would like some useful info. Some information will be directly copy-pasted into this post, to make life easier. With that said, let's begin!

What you need:

Reference Materials

• AEM F/IC-6 Installation Guide
• 2TR-FE Engine Control Wiring Diagram (Starts on page 231)

Parts

• 30-1910 AEM F/IC-6 - Don't get any other part number otherwise it may not work. It has to be the universal model.
• $167 AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
  30-4110 AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge - Can be any wideband, but this is the one that I am using and it works great.
• $7 E-Projects 10EP5122K20 2.2k Ohm Resistors, 1/2 W, 5% (Pack of 10)
  1/2W 2.2K Resistor - For signal filtering on the cam/crank circuit. This is a requirement; if you don't install this the truck will throw a code for the cam/crank circuit.
• 1/4" Heat Shrink tubing - For heatshrinking around the resistors
• Spade Crimp Connectors - This will allow you to revert to stock, if needed.
• Eventronic 100PCS Solder Seal Wire Connector, Heat Shrink Butt Terminals Electrical Insulated Marine Waterproof Automotive Copper Connectors with Case
  Low heat solder connectors - better than spade connectors, can melt with heat gun.
• $11 Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg
  Posi-Tap connectors - For the connections you need to TAP into. (IGN, TPS, O21, Gnds)
• Solder - if you choose to solder the resistors. I will explain a different method below.
• Zip Ties - For cleaning up the wiring once everything is verified working.

Basic Installation
At the time of this writing, there are no known Boomslang or PnP harnesses for the 2TR-FE using an AEM F/IC. Because of this, we will need to cut into our factory ECU harness. If you are not comfortable with stripping/splicing/cutting into wires, then this thread is not for you.
To eliminate some confusion from the beginning, there are a number of wires you can eliminate from the AEM harness. You can do this very quickly/easily with a

Konsait PSU Modding Tool Kit,DIY 4PCS/Set ATX/EPS/PCI-E/Molex/SATA Full Pin Removal Tool Kit, for Computer Cable Connector

Molex Depinning Tool, if you'd like to physically clean up the wiring from the connector. Otherwise, you can leave the extra wires full-length and wrap them separately.
A: Cam/Crank Wires- The 2TR-FE uses MAG style sensors for these. This means that all HALL cam/crank wires can be removed if desired.
B: MAP Sensor- We do not have a MAP sensor, only a MAF sensor. The "pressure sensor" you may see in wiring diagrams for the 2TR-FE is for the secondary air injection system, and is located on the resonator for the air intake. This is not used. You can eliminate the ANALOG A/B In/Out wires at this point, unless you plan on also running meth injection, and want to have a 0-5v gauge for meth flow.
C: O2 Sensor- The 2TR-FE uses a factory wideband sensor for the upstream sensor. There is no resistor needed for O2 sensor skewing, so ignore the AEM diagram for that.

Below is a wiring diagram spreadsheet I made to make it easier to understand the routing of the wires.
The ECM Connectors and pin numbers from the spreadsheet correspond to the diagram below, which I also color coded.

Cam/Crank Sensor Resistors:
Toyota still hasn't changed their method of having the cam and crank signal circuits share a ground. This creates noise in the system, which the AEM is sensitive enough to pick up and really ruin your tuning day. To remedy this, you will use a 0.5w 2.2K Ohm resistor to act as a Low Pass Filter across the positive and negative of each. You will use one resistor across CAM1 MAGI+ and CAM1 MAGI-, and another across CRK MAGI+ and CRK MAGI-. The diagram below shows the placement of the resistor just before the AEM wiring, on the sensor side.
I opted to make a separate wire for my resistor wires, to make troubleshooting/removal to stock easier. I took one of each of the HALL wires for the cam and crank, placed the resistor in-line, and used a Posi-Tap on each end.

Actual Installation:
Prepare your materials/tools and most importantly- your workspace! AEM recommends disconnecting the negative battery terminal, to allow the ECU to reset its learning. Do this first!
Next, locate the ECM- it is behind the passenger glovebox. You can give yourself more room to work by moving the passenger seat as far rearward as possible. Remove the glovebox by lowering it, then unclipping the strut. Once unclipped, the box will unhinge and pull off easily. Set it out of the way for a while, and use a worklight to light up inside the glovebox area.
You can now start looking at the ECM connectors, and seeing the rainbow of colors coming from them. Each connector can be unclipped very easily by pushing down gently on the tab on "top" of the connector. Remember, the whole ECM assembly is on its left side, so the top is really the left side. You can start your wiring in any order you would like, but I recommend only unclipping one ECM connector at a time, so you don't get confused. Each connector has a 1 and whatever number is the highest pin number on it, for locating the pins. When looking at the provided diagram above, that is looking at the connector from the wire-side NOT the connector side. Locate your wires, and for the INTERCEPT wires- make your cuts and either spade or solder buttjoint them. For the TAP connections, use a Posi-Tap connector. During the wiring extravaganza, my passenger footwell looked like the picture below. Don't panic, and take your time!

One very important thing to pay attention to is the INPUT and OUTPUT designations. If these are backwards, the vehicle will not run!

The Cam/Crank/MAF INPUTS are FROM THE SENSOR TO THE FIC. The OUTPUT is FROM THE FIC TO THE ECM CONNECTOR.

The Injector INPUTS are FROM THE ECM CONNECTOR TO THE FIC. The OUTPUT is FROM THE FIC TO THE INJECTOR WIRING.

Once you have all your wires intercepted/tapped properly, you need to run the vacuum line for the AEM onboard MAP sensor. To do this, I ran it through the passenger footwell firewall grommet I already had for an amp. Once in the engine bay, I simply ziptied it along the wiring harness, and routed it to the FPR line that attaches to the intake resonator. Cut the short line, and install the provided T-fitting, and secure with zipties. (I'll post a picture of this once I take one later). I mounted my F/IC to the passenger kick panel, as I like the look, and wanted an easy way to reach the USB port...and I wanted to retain my factory glovebox.

Now that all connections are complete- you can verify your wiring is proper by plugging in the bypass harness, reconnecting the negative battery cable, and attempting to start the vehicle!
Toyotas are known to run like dog crap after an ECU reset. My 2013 Taco idled rough and extremely low for about 3 drive cycles until it relearned the tuning. If the vehicle starts and idles without a CEL, you should drive it around the block. With the bypass harness installed, the vehicle should drive 100% factory. If you have hesitation/CELs/anything not normal, verify your wiring. I personally had a high-load, low RPM hesitation that turned out to be a bad injector connection. Once you have any kinks worked out, you can then remove the bypass harness and connect them to the F/IC. This is what my passenger footwell looked like during testing/verification- don't be afraid to have a little bit of a mess! It can be cleaned up!

I'll make another post in here regarding what firmware (z104, z107, z110) you would want to use, as well as verifying all your sensors read within range.

 

Beautifully scripted. Bravo.

 

subbed for future info

 

2TR-FE uses reluctor mag or hall cam sensors?

 

Mag sensors, good sir!

 

This pdf is for my 2005, waveform 3 most definitely isn't hall (square wave). Thank you

 

Yeah, I learned that all Toyotas use Mag style cam/crank sensors with a shared ground between the two. This makes the AEM see a dirty "signal, which is why the resistor is required. It just becomes a low pass filter, and actually makes a difference

 

Dirtdigginjoe,

Could you use what you learnt from integrating the AEM controller into the Tacoma's harness and create a plug-n-play harness for this application?

Regards,
Silver_Back