The Drifter - Specs and FAQ

Ooof...

 

Yep daystar cradles. Like I said I only use them for the bike. Otherwise my OME pack has done great so far. Maybe I’m just not carrying as much weight around?

One Hong that is noticeable when wheelingis the little clack you hear from the cradle contacting the bag lol. Some thin rubber can solve that though!

I have seen some photos of TAV’s build and they actually made new mounts further in on the axel to house bags and still be able to run hydrolic bumps.

They also run a custom spring tho too.

We’ll see I guess over the long term how my OME’s hold Up. Weight distribution was a big factor in planning out our build as well.

 

At least my truck is level, but I've trimmed everything I can out of the wheel well and I still rub occasionally so clearly need more lift..which those leafs clearly aren’t going to do.

 

Yeah don’t get me started, this was all based on rec’s from some people i know in the industry they all said go with the BP-51’s/OME. to be honest the shocks have been pretty dang good, I have had one rear fail and now a front in a year. they will replace them again and they work well with the camper. I’ll probably switch to kings, EEK, can;t believe I said that out loud and get Deavers here in a months time.

The leafs, I’ll ask to be refunded as they are about 2 months old, as I am not wanting another set of this to go on the truck, they’ll just do the same thing.

Shocks, I will probably sell them for a reduce price to offered the kings. Damn you Cali guys

 

What size of Tyre are you running @danneskjold

 

I find a lot of people up north recommend the bp-51's, and some friends have fallen for it. I just tell them to stay on the highway and everything will be fine.

 

255/80/17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Have never gotten stuck, and I don’t have the mileage or power hit normally with 33s.

 

Yeah in just upgraded to bfg ko2 34x20.5 r17 and inforgot how nice it was to drive with ko2’s on.

Although i’m getting a bit if rubbing kn the sway bar from the wheel weights and i have developed a loud clunk on left turns into a parking lot where there tends to be a lip. Thjnk ai may have a bad bearing as there is a rubbing/grinding noise ag full lock But no signs of rubbjng at otber then the sway bar.

 

These were not northen peeps, southern, US actually. Anyways doesn’t matter, they work, there not kings, but they work for now. Leafs first then, shocks.

 

I can see why you get rubbing, 20" is a damn wide tire! Like 44" Nokian Hakkapeliitta that they run in Iceland wide!

 

Did any of you run OME HDs with an extra leaf (or two?) in the pack?

<-- the land cruiser is about 1000lbs over with spares, fluids, gear, bed, fridge, storage, armor and a 50G diesel tank- I ended up running two extra leafs in each corner to keep it steady. Pre-Dakar.

 

Does anyone know of shop that works with gen 1 tundras in Colorado or on the way to Bencia, Ca.? I am thinking of upgrading my leafs and hangers but can't find any good hangers.

 

Nice... Excited to drive down and get this thing. Definitely welcome to check it out when I get it up here.

Matt at MCM Fab is in Vegas and he has some gen 1 stuff. I got my rear from him. and he helped with some other stuff to get my truck together.

 

@aaen thought this might be relevant. At about the 12:20 mark he talks about the OMEs.

 

don't rub it in any more

 

suppose to be 10.5, haha Half the time i am on my phone

 

So about this waterproofing RTV stuff. Is the idea that with the RTV gel that thick line of the gel goes around the perimeter of the plastic bed rail covers only or should we also cover all the holes? Do you place it on the plastic cap or on the metal before putting them back together? If covering the holes, then with what do you recommend is used (a gel seems insufficient)? Why not just get rid of the plastic bed cap? Is there a function it serves? Others have mentioned this, but what about a KBVooDoo bed rail in aluminum? Seems like there could be less issues with seepage since they are flat. There was some discussion about needing to drill through it, but isn't the drifter clamped on? Too many questions, I know.

 

@huruta I agree with getting the flat bedrail covers, but they don't seem to be readily available for my gen 1 Tundra. The RTV goes between the metal bed rail and the plastic cap. The idea is, on my truck, the dust will enter the bed of the truck through the gaps & passages that connect the inner and outer bed sides. The RTV is used to help prevent the dust migration, under the plastic cap, between the inner & outer sides of the bed. I found, on my truck, that it is necessary to seal other areas of the bed where gaps exist. I used a light at night to find these. I think that a piece of bar stock across the top of the front bed wall would also help seal and provide a better sealing surface.

 

RTV is just a silicon material. If you removed the plastic bed rail caps, ran a good bead weaving along the bed top through out the holes you should then be able to reinstall the bed rail caps and have a seal the full length of the bedrail provided you are liberal enough with the RTV to fill the gaps between the plastic cap and the bed.

I have the aluminum KB caps and they come with some double backed weather stripping that you apply on the outermost edge of the bed. This set up has its own set of precautions that you must take when installing the drifter since it can create gaps in areas where the plastic covers do not. Phil and I had it dialed in though without any issues. This was on a Second gen mind you that does not have the shark fin clearance to worry about. I don't know if there has been a third gen or later model second gen that's used the KB caps.

I still went back through after install and added some RTV in areas that have given me leak problems in the past. Mainly because I despise leaks lol

 

I siliconed my bedcaps, it helps but that does not seal the bed to fenders or the cubbies. So I still got a mess in my bed.