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How do you get your wheels to stick out past the fenders?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Westin882, Oct 22, 2018.

  1. Oct 22, 2018 at 8:49 PM
    #21
    PeterMN

    PeterMN Well-Known Member

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    @Westin882 2.5" is really the largest lift you can go on a suspension lift without putting to much preload on your shocks and making your truck drive really poorly and putting to much strain on your CV joints. 33" tires (285/75/16 is a 32.8" Diameter 11.2" Width tire, 305/70/16 is also 32.8"D x 12.0"W are fairly standard for our trucks) is also about the largest you can fit on an aftermarket coil-over kit before you start running into serious body modifications and the need for a long travel suspension. Wheel Spacers and Offset are methods of adding width to your vehicle but it also moves your tires center of gravity away from where the vehicle originally had them engineered to be. Adding 33's is generally when people starting regearing difs to 4.88's and 35's Plus long travel is a minimum of 4.88's maybe even 5.29"s $2200-2500. Standard Long Travels are +2.0"W and +3.5"W. A King 2.5" Coil-over Kit with UCA + LCAs will run about $5500-6000 when a 2.5" King Coil-over Kit Plus LongTravel Parts will run about $7000 That is not including the extended spindles, brake-lines, fiberglass work to allow the additional travel, etc... Also Long Travel require a significant amount of maintenance to ensure it stays within torque specs. We taco lovers want what we want but do your research beforehand.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2018
  2. Oct 22, 2018 at 9:09 PM
    #22
    JoeCOVA

    JoeCOVA Well-Known Member

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    Way beyond what OP was asking but cool story

    The real easiest way to get the tire beyond the fender is just buying a wheel with a low offset. Stock tires on TRD wheels will stick out a bit from the fender...
     
  3. Oct 23, 2018 at 7:31 AM
    #23
    TrapComa

    TrapComa Well-Known Member

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    Wannabe prerunner, wannabe overlander
    I'm sorry my answer doesn't meet your standard for how an answer on this forum should look. I forgot that this forum only allows trucks with bilstein 5100, fake TRD wheels, bed caps and BFG KO2... back to my cave I go
     
  4. Oct 23, 2018 at 7:34 AM
    #24
    Thunder Fist

    Thunder Fist Well-Known Member

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    Like, so many.
    I really don't think you need to regear with 33s. A boat load of people run 33s on here and while it does take some work, I don't think regearing is necessary.
     
  5. Oct 23, 2018 at 10:03 AM
    #25
    Fatty Msclimm

    Fatty Msclimm Well-Known Member

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    I uhh...peeled the stickers off. Does that count?
    Good lord!
     
  6. Oct 23, 2018 at 10:35 AM
    #26
    su.b.rat

    su.b.rat broken truck

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    don't stop sharing that stuff wherever you feel appropriate. it's one of the reasons at least half of us are here. your stuff is awesome and i wouldn't have known about it if you didn't post. even if Joe's right it's more than the OP asked for, but that ain't no problem.
     
    davidstacoma and Fatty Msclimm like this.
  7. Oct 23, 2018 at 12:21 PM
    #27
    fajitas21

    fajitas21 XMF - Extreme Mexican Food fo Life!

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    Originally not Expo AF! Kinda Expo AF now...lame.
    A couple people here say no need to regear for 33's.

    If you go heavy Load Range E tires, I'd really argue that you'd likely want to consider it. I went from 20 > 14.5 MPG going from stock to 285 70 r17 Ridge Grapplers Load C. Some of that is an uncorrected speedo / odometer, but a lot of that is just from a heavy tire.

    You like 6th gear? Consider light wheels/tires or a regear.

    Live in mountains? N/A engines struggle there due to high altitudes, and this engine already lugs hard unless you give it the gas.

    You absolutely can do 33's and no regear. I did it for a year until it drove me so crazy I got rid of the truck. That's on me. The truck pushed those tires. It just did it poorly.
     
    Taco_Craig likes this.
  8. Oct 23, 2018 at 3:56 PM
    #28
    JoeCOVA

    JoeCOVA Well-Known Member

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    Dude. You have a killer rig and I would love to build something like that one day.

    Don’t get me wrong, but OP is new to this whole thing and you basically just threw the kitchen sink of suspension mods at him.

    Let’s start small with some backspacing and let the OP work his way up to running Baja

    For the record I’m running Kings, OMF beadlocks, 5.29s and 35” Maxxis Trepadors bias ply. So you can take that back to your cave.

    There’s a lot people here running some cool stuff.

    Nothing wrong with 5100s, bed caps, KO2s and fake beads though either.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
  9. Apr 29, 2021 at 5:34 AM
    #29
    Sideswipe

    Sideswipe Member

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    Little here and there
    So I replaced my damaged fender flares with pocket style flares and now my truck looks like it skipped leg day. Prerunner on stock suspension and my takeaway from this thread is I’m looking for a 16x8 wheel with 20mm offset?

    I don’t off road but I’ve had bad luck with spacers in the past so that’s not an option.

    05F563BA-559A-4853-ADE4-E92D5A0C108F.jpg
     
    rdvm1972 likes this.
  10. Apr 29, 2021 at 6:11 AM
    #30
    rdvm1972

    rdvm1972 Well-Known Member

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    None, brand new. Looking for ideas
    EF259454-73F5-4637-890B-965BB27FE5A2.jpg 876223E1-FDB7-4FEF-A0AB-D17FDF4348EB.jpg I’m running 17”x10” with a -24 off set. No spacers. Wheels stick out past the fenders about 2”. Makes my truck feel planted and more stable then my old wheels. Tires are 285/70/17. 3” fox/icon lift.
     
  11. Apr 29, 2021 at 6:13 AM
    #31
    Sideswipe

    Sideswipe Member

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    Little here and there
    Are you lifted?
     
  12. Apr 29, 2021 at 6:24 AM
    #32
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    I can only imagine how much stress the spacers put on axles and wheel bearings. It's bad enough cleaning mud off the fenders much stone chips.
     
    Claudiomartinof likes this.

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