LED Waterpoofing

joelt · Mar 17, 2017

Hey all!

Just got my 32" Mictuning LED bar in. Waiting for my CaliRaised mounts and harness to install it. Just wondering how far I should go to provide additional waterproofing. According to the manufacturer site, it's waterproof...but I know you get what you pay for. I had a 50" curved Hanma with no issues on my '13 TRD OR, but this one will be mounted on the bumper, below the grill...and it's much wetter here in AK.

I'm not concerned about warranty issues, as it only cost $39. Just wondering if I should tighten the screws (if they even need it) and add a bead of RTV all the way around or loosen it up, add the seal between the 2 pieces, then tighten. I'm thinking the former...just looking for a sanity check.

Thanks!

TRD Larry · Mar 17, 2017

I have the exact same setup. Mounted it on the truck as it came out of the box. No problems so far. I live in the north and I worry more about the road salt than waterproofing. The salt they use on the roads here eat through metal if you don't keep at it.

joelt · Mar 17, 2017

Yeah, up here you get a lot of sand and some salt. I'd say over a period of time, it can take a toll on anything on the leading edge, especially with longer commutes.

Afbird · Mar 17, 2017

Let us know anout the light output once installed. Looks nice.

joelt · Mar 17, 2017

Will do. Also got the Lamin-X yellow fog light covers to cut through the ice fog. I'll post when everything arrives and I throw it all together.

pc3coyote · Mar 21, 2017

joelt[OP] initial post: ↑

Hey all!

Just got my 32" Mictuning LED bar in. Waiting for my CaliRaised mounts and harness to install it. Just wondering how far I should go to provide additional waterproofing. According to the manufacturer site, it's waterproof...but I know you get what you pay for. I had a 50" curved Hanma with no issues on my '13 TRD OR, but this one will be mounted on the bumper, below the grill...and it's much wetter here in AK.

I'm not concerned about warranty issues, as it only cost $39. Just wondering if I should tighten the screws (if they even need it) and add a bead of RTV all the way around or loosen it up, add the seal between the 2 pieces, then tighten. I'm thinking the former...just looking for a sanity check.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I have the same light bar and didn't do any waterproofing. I know another user who did with the same light bar, @O_Nevermind, he can probably comment on what he did. I didn't think it was necessary for now since others have had success but it definitely wouldn't hurt. I'm super happy with the light output and overall setup.

see here for my write-up on my light bar installation including installations and photos. I've changed some more things since then which is outlined in my build page which is linked in my sig.

pwalnut said: ↑

Got my lightbar installed and I love it! Big thanks to @Woody79, @rysingsun, @moe2o4, and @CaliRaisedLed for their helpful guides. I put together my guide below to help out others as well, especially anyone who opts for the same hardware I used since not all the wiring is the same. I went cheap on my install. I know it’s not the quality of CaliRaised, Rigid, etc but for ~$125 for everything, I’m super happy with it. I actually paid a lot less since I bought the brackets used from another member and Amazon ended up giving me the light bar and harness for free surprisingly due to some issues with the delivery. Even at $125, I think it’s a steal and a great addition.

Materials

MICTUNING 32" 180W Combo Led Light Bar - 13200 Lumen, 6000-6200K Crystal White, Waterproof for Off-road Jeep ATV UTV SUV Truck Boat

MicTuning MIC-BC2180 180W Combo Spot Flood Beam LED Light Bar - $39.99

$11 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

MicTuning MIC-B1002 40A Fuse Relay Wiring Harness - $10.95

MICTUNING M0810-T-LLBB LED Push Switch with Connector Wire Kit for Toyota - LED LIGHT BAR Symbol -Blue

MicTuning LED Light Bar Symbol Blue 1.54" x 0.83" Push Switch - $11.90

2x 14 AWG butt connectors and 3x 20 AWG butt connectors - $2.49

1x 20 AWG t-tap - $2.49

Electrical tape

Zip ties

Tools

Phillips screwdriver

Flat head screwdriver

10mm, 12mm, 14mm deep sockets

5mm allen key

Crimper, wire stripper

Dremel with cutting disk

Instructions

Step 0: Leave the main connections (battery positive and ground) connections for the end once you have all your wires routed as a precaution.

Step 1: Remove the grill. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws and the flat head screwdriver to remove the two plastic tab screws. Grab the upper supports and pull straight out. The plastic tabs will come out.

Step 2: Remove the wind deflectors on each side. Use the flat head screwdriver to remove the single plastic tab screw on each side.

Step 3: Remove the two transmission cooler bolts by using the 12mm deep socket. Push the transmission cooler back to make it easier to slide the LED light bar in.

Step 4: Remove the two nuts on each of the outer sides of each crash bar with the 14mm deep socket. Leave the inner bolts alone. Install only the driver side light bar bracket but only hand-tighten the nuts.

Step 5: Slide in the light bar from the passenger side to the driver side. Let it rest on the crash bars. Install the passenger side bracket and hand-tighten the nuts. Use the smaller bolts that came with the light bar to attach the light bar to the brackets with a 5mm allen key. I also added two hardened washers (one on each side) but they likely aren’t needed. You may need a second person to hold the light bar as you bolt the light bar to the bracket so that you can lean down to see through the grill to line up the bolts and holes. Ensure that the light bar is pulled all the way forward and rotated to face straight out.

Step 6: Mount the relay to the bracket by the battery by temporarily removing the bolt with a 10mm socket.

Step 7: Cut off the spade terminals from the white and black wires from the harness, cut it shorter to length, and use the 14 AWG butt connectors to connect it to the red and black light bar wires (white to red, black to black). Use electrical tape over the connectors. Use electrical tape over the second set of white and black wires from the harness or cut them off if you don't plan to use them (they are for a second light bar).

Step 8: Temporarily run the two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to the right of the relay to test the light bar. Use the attached switch. If it works, disconnect the terminals. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot. The battery terminal requires a12mm socket and the ground requires a 10mm socket.

Step 9: Reinstall the transmission cooler. Cut off small corners of the wind deflectors with a dremel and then reinstall. This is so that it doesn’t hit the light bar.

Step 10: Zip tie the wire going from the light bar to the relay in various places to keep it out of the way. There are plenty of places to attach too.

Step 11: Follow @moe2o4’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

Step 12: Cut off the switch from the harness. Cut off a straight piece of a metal hangar. Use the hanger wire to poke a hole in the rubber firewall. Use electrical tape to tape the red, white, and black wires coming from the relay to the hanger. Rub a dab of dish soap over the taped area of the hangar and then pull it through from the interior by pulling on the end of the hangar.

Step 13: Wire the Mictuning switch to the harness wires by using the 20 AWG butt connectors. Red harness wire goes to the green switch wire, white harness wire goes to the red 1 (first after green) switch wire, black harness wire goes to the black switch wire. After that, use the 20 AWG t-tap to connect the red 2 (second after green, first from black) switch wire to the green cargo wire (first wire on the first switch from the left). After you connect everything, wrap all the connects in electrical tape.

Step 14: Reconnect the two two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to test the light bar. By default, nothing is lit up. The switch text LED should light up when the interior lights are on. The switch light bar LED should come on when pressed. Test the new switch to make sure it works, that the lighter comes on, and the switch light bar LED should also light up. If it works, proceed. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot.

Step 15: Ziptie the extra slack going from the relay to the firewall, from the firewall to the battery positive terminal, and from the firewall to the ground terminal. Reinstall the dash panels. Reinstall the grill.

Step 16: Enjoy!

Off:

Interior lights on:

Interior lights on, light bar on:

Light bar only:

Lows and fogs only:

Lows, fogs, and light bar:

Lows, highs, fogs, and light bar:

Click to expand...

jessetoedtman · Mar 22, 2017

Going to use your write up when I install mine thanks!

pc3coyote · Mar 22, 2017

jessetoedtman said: ↑

Going to use your write up when I install mine thanks!
Click to expand...

Happy to help! Good luck!

O_Nevermind · Mar 23, 2017

joelt[OP] initial post: ↑

Hey all!

Just got my 32" Mictuning LED bar in. Waiting for my CaliRaised mounts and harness to install it. Just wondering how far I should go to provide additional waterproofing. According to the manufacturer site, it's waterproof...but I know you get what you pay for. I had a 50" curved Hanma with no issues on my '13 TRD OR, but this one will be mounted on the bumper, below the grill...and it's much wetter here in AK.

I'm not concerned about warranty issues, as it only cost $39. Just wondering if I should tighten the screws (if they even need it) and add a bead of RTV all the way around or loosen it up, add the seal between the 2 pieces, then tighten. I'm thinking the former...just looking for a sanity check.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I pulled the bezel off of the light bar and then added a bead of rtv (Used window sealant silicone) and reattached it. There are no protective layers from potential condensation. Good luck!

Nunya Bizness · Nov 7, 2018

Anyone know where this @pwalnut lives? I need to do some recon. I am going to steal his truck!

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