Need Help Finalizing My System

Jesus, I pulled one rear door panel and almost ever damn clip broke. Any ideas for replacements?

 

You can absolutely use factory wiring! It’s plenty good enough for the power you’ll have. I’d run new wire if I was planning a big system, but not for this.


For the clips, these fit most Toyota’s I work on

$7 GOOACC for Toyota Trim Door Panel Clips Retainer for Tacoma Tundra Camry Corolla Avalon Sienna Replace OEM: 90467-10188，9mm Hole - 40pcs

https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Panel-Retainer-90467-10188-Sienna/dp/B0040CTTH4

 

Okay I ordered 10 feet of OFC speed wire. Im going to go with an OFC install kit too tonight.

 

That depends on how much power you're going to use. I wouldn't go over 100W on the stock stuff assuming it's 16 ga. Any smaller & you'll probably wanna replace it. Looking at the wiring from the factory tweets it seems like 18 ga. 16 max.

 

I have a Brand New Excelon x801-5 just sitting in the garage...... I can also guarantee the 2yr warranty on it... Just saying!

 

@destin_meeks Im going to try with the factory wiring and see what it does. Thanks for the clip link.

@rob feature I already ordered speed wire to connect the amp to the factory wire harness so im going to give that a shot but Ill probably end up ordering some nice OFC speaker wire in the near future. It seams like a fairly reasonable upgrade that will actually be noticeable. I believe the tweeters wont be using the stock speaker wiring because I ordered a new component set that includes it.

@Purpleman To be honest with you I am really new to actually participating in online forums and not just using them for research purposes. I am kinda gun shy about buying things used from people that I cant look in the eye. How does the marketplace here work? Is it pretty much wild west rules like craigslist or is there a governing force like ebay or Amazon has set up? I felt the stupidity of that question as I was typing it.... What are you asking for your amp?

 

It's basically handshake agreements. I personally use paypal for payments because you can cancel payments and file issues if the other party doesn't follow through.

 

I love Amazon, they have a chat button in the app. Asked to return the amp and cap and they emailed me the packing labels in seconds. I'm going to order the nvx 900.5. I've been thinking that if I'm going to do all this that I might as well do it right so im going to order the good ofc amp kit too. Honestly I'm struggling with using the stock speaker wire if it's not good stuff. In my head I see the power from the battery coming to the amp with good wire, then the amp (which I'm buying a good amp I believe) putting it to the speed wire I ordered, then through the harness. Wouldn't it be much better to directly wire each speaker with new ofc? If I'm stressing this too much and the difference isn't noticable please just let me know.

 

Any thoughts about these foam baffles? If they are worth it would I have enough room for the regular size or should I get the 'slim' one? Design Engineering 050370 Boom Mat Speaker Baffles, 6" x 8" Oval (Pack of 2)

$14 Design Engineering 050370 Boom Mat Speaker Baffles, 6" x 8" Oval (Pack of 2), Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039Z3T0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qv37BbTY83QHA

 

won't be noticeable at all.

 

roadkill fast rings are worth it, but these rear baffle type things aren't

 

Okay I'll check out the roadkill. Thank you. And I'm just gonna use the stock wire and listen to those who know. How does this amp kit look? NVX True Spec 4 Gauge 100% Copper Single Amp Wiring Kit with Speaker Cable, No RCA [XAPK4]

$85 NVX True 4 Gauge AWG 100% OFC Amplifier Wiring Kit Without RCA Cable - XAPK4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UXXL46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nH37BbX397PXG
I ordered 6 channel rca Lready too.

 

Never mind.... this is better right? KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

$73 KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iN37BbKZ6YRG6

 

they're both basically the same thing. one has RCA's, the other doesn't. can't go wrong with either

 

It's good to sweat the details. This is a lot of work & getting it done right the 1st time will save you headaches down the road. Yes, it is absolutely better to wire directly and skip the factory harness. There are a few reasons for this. First, you're going to be over the power limit for the factory wiring. Consider also that this passes through harnesses which will further degrade the ability to pass the needed current and will add resistance. It's also traveling further, increasing resistance and decreasing power handling ability. It's probably not the case with you, but sending too much power through inadequate wiring can generate a lot of heat.

They do work, however I wouldn't use them in your case.

I did a simple test a while back to see what these things do to frequency response. For this I used a series of full-range sweeps - 3 each in the unoccupied vehicle with the mic clipped to the driver's headrest. This is the result of those averages - using 1/12 octave smoothing.



Don't know what to make of that? I'll keep it simple. They definitely work. However I'd only recommend them in a factory setup with very little power that doesn't move the cone very much. You can cut the back out and use them as rain covers, but that's about all they're good for in your case.

Since fast rings were mentioned I'll give my 2 cents on those as well. Snake oil. They only actually do one thing besides waste money - they decouple. That means they keep 2 surfaces from touching and making noise. There are much cheaper ways to do that. They claim to do much more. They claim to act as a tunnel into the cabin so that sounds don't get into the door card. However they're open-cell foam and open cell foam does not behave this way. They also claim to be an effective backwave absorber. This is also hooey. Prove it to yourself. Find some open cell packaging foam and move it in front of your ear listening to music.

 

Okay. Itll all be here monday. Seriously you guys have been amazing, made this fun instead of stressful for me. Thanks again for the help.

 

I’d disagree with this about fast rings (the 3 part packs)
I use them almost daily in my shop and there is absolutely a difference. A drastic difference in mid-bass. Are they essential? No. Are they worth $9 per door? Abso-freaking-lutely.

On a daily basis, I install everything from $20/pair cheapo pioneer speakers, up to several hundred dollar infinity kappa perfects. I have yet to put fast rings in a car and say “nope, not worth it”
Same with sound deadening.

We all have our opinions though. That’s mine. I won’t clog this thread about it.

We both agree about not needing new wiring in this system

 

Sound deadening is one more place we agree. Worth every penny, cut and bead of sweat...especially in a 1st gen.

 

I'll probably do both rings and mat if I can get a good deal on them. I have never installed deadening mat before. Any idea how much I need or what thickness?

 

Deadening is a multi part process. A full treatment will consist of CLD (Constrained Layer Damper), CCF (Closed Cell Foam) and MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). It will require several full days of work. You can just do the damper though...which is what most do. My favorite is SDS CLD tiles, but there's a lot out there. With a good damper like CLD Tiles you can get away with as little as 25% coverage!

On the rings, you can buy open cell pre-made kits that don't do much or something like this garage door seal that actually works and make your own



This stuff is closed cell and is suitable for such things...available at Home Depot. I'm using it in 10 different ways in the truck