New England B.S. Thread

Congrats!

 

Congratulations!! Wow, what an awesome spot to pop the question.

 

You know me better than that... i don’t hire contractors for anything! I did all of it myself, bought the spray foam kit from Foam It Green and went to town.

A faulty zone valve can cause all sorts of weird issues. I replaced one that was intermittently responsive. If you rule out the wiring and thermostats as being faulty, it could be a zone valve if you can’t rule out other causes.

 

The foam, the drywall in kitchen and dining room, counters and cabinets, are the only things I've hired out.

Im no carpenter, and the cabinets, and stone were way too expensive to learn on
I HATE drywall.

I was eyeballing the foam it green kits, for the sill plate/rim joist... how was it to work with?

And second, @pitbool99 how many tstats in the house?
If it is just one, shouldnt be a zone valve, just a circ pump.

Maybe a bigger pic of your boiler, showing any zone valves, pumps, etc

 

I have to zone with two stats

 

And just one pump?

Does either zone get heat?

 

Thanks everyone! Not going to lie . My only concern was catching my breath at the top enough to no be panting as I did it. 6" on the bottom and over a foot towards the top.



And @Skierrichy tell Kim it was close. Hahaha. All the water crossings had a foot of fluff on them with a 1" skim coat of ice. Very hard finding the shallow rocks, because you have to get wet on some to cross. This was the only dry one


Worth it though

 

One pump (Looks that way))
Upstairs zone is giving off heat)
One pump ( seems that way) upstairs has heat.
The pipes beyond valve in pic that has more light on it are cool . On the other hand the heat hasn’t gone on as house is 71 and stat on 69 . Had house up to 78 last night so it’s still cooling down. Should those pipes beyond that valve be cool?

 

Congratulations!

 

Thanks !


Btw the powder is awesome up in Rangeley right now if anyone's looking to go wheeling haha

 

Can just the top part of that valve be replaced without having to do any plumbing ( motor and electrical)?
Also concerned about air bubble in lines

 

Okay, honeywell valves, 1 pump....

Those are gear motor valves, and they also have a small manual override lever on them.

If that valve is closed, warm water wont flow through.

Key is figuring it out.
The powerhead can be replaced relatively easily.
Butm i would manually operate it first, it might just be crudded up

 

Not sure if it'll load right but....

 

I was also unable to move switch in the back from auto while boiler running or not (questionable one)
The other I could move easily while running and while not I could feel it move but didn’t ( just needed a nudge)
Questionable I was too afraid to force it over to open

 

All I got for now thanks

 

Can I try that at anytime?

 

Just too afraid to force it over

 

The foam it green kit was pretty easy, actually. I bought extra tips per their advice and it was a blessing. Unless you’re spraying continuous, they clog up pretty quick. Get a decent respirator and plan ahead, and it’s not bad. You don’t want to have to reposition yourself very often, you want to spray as continuous as possible. I duct taped the spare nozzles to my tyvek suit so I could keep making quick progress.

My boiler has 1 pump, 3 zone valves.

If the zone valves ar open, meaning that zone is calling for heat, none of the pipes should be cool. If they’re cool, it’s not pushing hot water. As Chasespeed said, try to manually operate the zone valve.

The top can be replaced without opening the copper line, as long as the valve itself is in good shape. It’s not too bad to do either, just make sure you get a compatible controller.

Are you getting heat to all of the zones in your house?

 

Yes, hold on, I’ll post a video

 

Damn, can’t get the video to upload... it can take a bit of force, just don’t go too nutty with it.

Also, you should have an air bleeder in your system, it’s the little silver cylinder on the top of the expansion tank