Raleigh North Carolina and surrounding areas

Hey man, Welcome!

If you decide you want to have it installed by a shop, Josh from Apex Overland is up near greensboro is a solid guy. Reasonable prices, does a ton of toyots stuff. If you want to do it yourself, we can throw together an install party and get a couple dudes to help! Im right near Sanford and can help as well!

 

Ever have those moments when you over-analyze your options so much that you completely check out and manifest the most awe inspiring 1000 yard stare?

Can’t decide on UCA’s and rear shocks
- SPC LR’s or uni-b’s or IVD DJ’s
- FOX 980-02-102’s or 980-02-034’s (2.5’s vs 2.0’s)

Pro’s and con’s this, pro’s and con’s that

 

Spc and 2.0” the 2.5”s are nice but will proably rub

 

Something to keep in mind with the SPCs, the part where the uniball would be (not sure what SPC calls that vertical bolt that goes through spindle) but I have been riding with a friend that has those and that nut came loose and threw his alignment off bc it slid until the bolt caught in it's little channel. PITA when offroading (or even DD'ing). With the uniballs, that is not a factor. Total Chaos also has 3* caster built into the UCA which will help with alignments (SPC may also have this design, IDK). I have ran TC's for a few years now with zero issues. I do routine maintenance on them (grease the polymer fittings and lube the uniball) and I wouldnt change my set up personally. I have just never been a fan of the SPC bc of that bolt feature in how it attaches to the spindle.

As for 2.5's rubbing...I am unfamiliar in what you mean exactly? I have the 2.5s with resi with no rubbing. I do have a 1" wheel spacer but my wheels are 35x12.5x18. Just curious if you can elaborate on what/how they could rub? (genuine question, not being a smartass, I have not looked into the OPs build or anything as to what hes running in conjunction with the suspension). I will say though that the 2.5's may not really be necessary depending on what effects you are going for.

 

I’ve had the spc arms on for almost a year now and never had any issues. Personally I like the adjustability, it makes it super easy to get the alignment ya want and adjust the tire within the wheel well. Had tc’a before hand and took them off because of all the noises..
if I ever change them maybe I’ll try the rockmen uca. There adjustable and have uniballs.

I thought I remember reading somthing about the 2.5” not fitting but maybe I’m wrong. Could be they would rub with stock rims and no spacers
Maybe it’s the remote resi ones, they needed modifying of the stock hanger?

 

@Skootter14

Originally the build plan was as follows (strictly suspension wise):
Front:
- fox

$2,020 880-06-418 Rear Coilover Shock Absorbers Fits Toyota Tacoma

880-06-418’s
- icon 58450DJ
- total chaos 59860 gussets
- total chaos 59698 gussets
- CMC
- bump stops
- ext. brake lines
Rear:
- fox 980-02-102’s
- icon 51101
- shock relocation
- retrofit OEM shackles or HD OEM size
- bump stops
- u-bolt flip
- ext brake lines
- shackle hangers if needed

I was pretty much settled on this approach, however, I feel I’ve reverted back to the drawing board as some items may be beyond overkill.

 

That’s a hefty suspension set up, but the question goes back to what are you looking at doing in terms of type of driving. I say that cuz it’s a huge bill for a few dirt road trips a year. Not saying that’s what you’re doing but a lot of times ppl see what others have and like what they see, but never utilize the equipment to even half of its ability...leading to a waste of $$$$ that could be used elsewhere.

I would offer making sure you know what kind of driving you plan to do 1, 2, 3 yrs down the road as the truck progresses to determine your set up. I’ve been through 2-3 sets of suspension as my outings progressed but I stuck with bilsteins 5100s all around with AAL and 3* shim in the rear for the first 3-4 yrs and changed my set up after blowing the seals in the rear shocks twice. That’s just an example. 1900$ for front C/Os is hefty depending on what you’re looking to do . You’re doing your homework though which is good, and at the end of the day there are only very few “wrong” decisions. Also, it’s your truck and if your satisfied with the cost for the products, then go for it

 

@Skootter14
@JustSomeDude

Thanks for reaching out. I definitely appreciate the help. I will be out of town for a few weeks but once I get back and have all my parts together I’d love to get a group together to install the lift.

 

Again, that was the original plan. To be able to traverse various types of terrain under varying conditions and be confident in the capabilities of the truck instead of hoping what I have would suffice. All of that in a “one and down” approach. So being back at the drawing board I’m asking myself questions like “okay, so the bilstein b110’s net me just barely below 11” of travel but the shaft diameter is only 14mm (0.551”). Is that strong enough?” or “if I want to take full advantage of my rear shocks I will have to relocate them for the added uptravel which also allows me to not need so much if any spacers for bump stops compared to stock mounted shocks” or “remote resi’s not only allow for more oil capacity which in turn frees up space but also helps with cooling, but is that really necessary for my application or an means insurance against premature failure.”, etc, etc...

So I’m pretty much at a crossroad with what is practical and what is overkill.

 

bilsteins i think, are a good option. I beat mine up decent at offroad parks in GA, TN, and KY and yes eventually the seals went bad in the rear...but that was toward the end their life anyway AND I was asking a good deal from them over and over and over again. I was extremely satisfied with their performance and price point. I think they have something a little beefier than the 5100s now which may also be an option.

 

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2002-toyota-tacoma-prerunner/6744128880.html

I know it’s at a dealer but does anyone have any intel on this dealer or this truck?

I’ve got a friend of mine looking at it tomorrow and I’ve given him the rundown on frame rust. Anyone nearby that can swing by and look at it sometime soon?

 

@Skootter14

I think I’ve formulated a more practical build list for my purposes.

Fox 883-02-025
Fox 985-24-196
Icon 58440 w/ 191011 caps
Icon 51101
Wheeler’s F/R bumps
Wheeler’s U-Bolt flip
Ext. brake lines

If necessary:
Beef up OEM shackles, axle shims, rebuild LCA’s, gussted spindles, bump shims, etc.

I feel this is a strong middle ground between your typical 5100, etc. and full blown mid/long travel builds. It provides good articulation, travel and the added benefit of stronger components. This also allows for modularity for the future if I decide to go that route for more aggressive off-roading. Alternatively, I do fancy the @Crom approach utilizing the 6112/B110 combo.

 

My suspension is very similar to Crom's. I like it a lot but there is still more to be desired. What you have listed seems like a really good set up. I think @HrBrad8 ran those fox's.

 

Just as an FYI I don't think the Icon rear springs are worth the money they cost. There are far better options for less or the same amount of $$$. @Blackout14 has 2 different sets of springs made one heavy one light up by a company in PA. You also have Deaver, Dakar, Dobinson, and even stock with a 3 leaf AAL.

 

Sound advice here sticky worthy!!!! Only fancy shocks/struts going to be on my truck will be on the rear and even then they won't be a huge cost.

 

Your truck is a heavy bitch though . That is good advice his truck is pretty light in the ass don't know future plans if he's going to end up really heavy.

 

It’s lighter right now...



Dakar’s with both overloads and one add a leaf

 

Beadlocks ship 12/6

 

Are you going with one of those PCORs from that aussie trailer company

 

What size tires