TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Excellent, thanks for chiming in on this!

 

The Odyssey I have is a 34 also with the spacer underneath it. Fits like a champ. I used to run Optima in all my vehicles and had one of them in 3 different vehicles. That one lasted 9 years and was a great battery. The more current 3 I have purchased didn't show signs of being that good and when the vehicles they were in went goodbye, so did the optima's. Love the Odyssey though.

 

OK hive mind, a question for the group. I am trying to understand what my new normal should be WRT coolant temperature.

Setup: 2012 OR, S/C, running 3.0 pulley (just didn't get the 2.8 installed yet...life...maybe this weekend), UCON, URD 270* Thermostat. Stock radiator.

I am seeing temps settle out consistently between 185-196. It doesn't matter if I am in slow traffic, or at speed on the interstate. I am seeing the same thing when it is 75* ambient or 47* ambient. I already asked Gadget and he suggested that I need replace my radiator. I am not ruling that out, but I want to understand the expected temps first.

It seems like I should settle out in the 275-285 range on cold days, but I am just not seeing it.

I know this is going to be a little contentious, I read the entire UCON thread, a large chunk of this thread, and the other large S/C thread and know this question has come up before, I just never saw a consensus.

As an aside, I finally got my AFR and boost gages in last night. LARGE variation between my AFR gage and what is coming up on OBDII (not unexpected, still not clear though if UCON sends false AFR to the ECU or not) and running super rich, saw 8.5-9 this morning and I was at about 0-1psi boost (writing it off to the wrong pulley size for now). Have thrown various combinations of CELs 0219A/B (AFR bank imbalance) over the past couple days.

 

Im running a 2.6, 170* t-stat like you, and full exhaust open from the headers back. Stock radiator, stock fan, and I see 170-182 on a daily basis. Doesn't ever seem to get above that.

Yes, UCon sends false signals to the ECU for AFRs.

UCon should adapt to the different sized pulleys/mods. Always a good idea to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 3 minutes or longer after making any changes to the truck. This allows it to relearn the new air flow/mods. 8.5-9 is overly rich though, have you done anything to the truck like reset the battery lately? this could cause the UCon to still be learning everything again

 

Also, what condition are your A/F, O2 and MAF sensors in. The Ucon can only adjust according to the info the sensors are giving them. I have just recently swapped all of mine out and it seems to have helps smooth stuff out. And then I fixed a belt slip issue and it really smoothed out.

 

Have you worked with Scott ?

 

I’m always sitting around 195 in winter conditions. I’ll be replacing the radiator and fans here shortly, then I should be able to hold temps closer to the thermostat set point.

 

Some people notice little to no change with the 170º t-stat. In those cases, and geographic considerations, a 160º thermostat might be the right choice.

@Roostfactor can give his impressions.

I use the 160º. My engine is an

 

First, I need to get serious quote skills together... Thanks for all of the feedback.

That's exactly what I was expecting to see.... makes me think I have a bad thermostat, guess I am going to need to pull it out and test it in a pot of water if I can't prove it is working.

Its been running about 2 weeks now since the last battery disconnect, I haven't made any significant changes since then. Going to get the 2.8 on this weekend along with a better belt (Fleetrunner). Pretty sure I am getting slippage.

Great question on the sensors; so I cleaned the MAF this afternoon. What do you mean by A/F? O2 hasn't been touched probably since the truck was built, never had a reason to think about it. Not loving the idea of changing out O2 sensors, have had a nightmare of a time with them in other cars.

Not yet. I wanted to get the truck in a good condition before I hit him up through Gadget. Right pulley, better belts...

Interesting. When I watch mine it seems like it is regulating in the 185-196 range. Going to try taking hose temps with an IR thermometer this weekend to see when the thermostat opens and puts water through the radiator, maybe I can save myself from pulling it out to test it. I have a hard time believing my radiator is fouled with 45k miles in San Diego. I was trying to convince myself that the LTR was blocking enough air that I wasn't getting the heat transfer, but that just isn't what I am seeing.

Thanks! Where do you see temps settle out with the 160* thermostat?

 

He has a Darton sleeved engine so his will run hotter.

I ran 185 with the stock thermostat AND the 170 tstat. At the time I asked Gadget if he thought it was radiator related and stated he had never had any problems with stock radiators keeping things cool. Interesting he now says it could be radiator related since I hooked him up with the CSF radiator deal.

So I still wasnt happy and saw that @Torspd found a 160 tstat that works with the URD adapter. I installed it last winter with no issues. Others have now as well and I havent heard of anyone having any issues. My temps now are 168-178 regardless of ambients temps. It's funny that now URD offers the 160 tstat as an option now.

Also keep in mind the tstat is getting cooled fluid from radiator and the coolant temp sensor is at the back of the engine after the coolant has made it's way through the hot engine.

Your system is working as advertised and is fine but you would also be fine with a 160.

Hope this helps.

Roost

 

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Is it wrong that I like it?

 

Just bought it. Gonna make it to ugly Xmas sweater party next week.

 

I think it’s awesome.

 

So update: truck started with a jump. The wife drive it around a little, shut it down for a few minutes and restarted it with no issues. I’m gonna try to swap it out still under warranty and maybe at least trade in the lemon

 

I had an issue with my stock radiator. It was running hot especially in the summer, 200+ degrees sometimes. I swapped mine for a csf rad and have had no problems with it. Truck is happy now and is usually around 177-185.

But a note on my stock rad, I noticed that the side facing the motor had a lot of fins bent, which is odd because nothing should have been messing with it back there. Made me wonder if I got a bad radiator from the factory or something.

 

Thanks Roost. Yep, that is the same thing I am seeing. Guess I will let it go until it gets hotter again and see how I do in some longer runs under load. There is a part of me that loves the idea of putting in the CSF radiator, but I'd rather put the money to other things if it isn't needed. You know, like suspension upgrades .

 

Got a good look at mine during the S/C install, everything looks good on the engine side. I do have the CSF bookmarked though.

 

Ran across this video. My world looked like this when my dad introduced me to drag racing. https://youtu.be/Nzkr4F_4Xlo

 

I'm just going to say this whole 3.5" intake tubing thing is not the one. The truck absolutely hates it.

I've been driving around trying to get this thing to adapt and the AFR's are going nuts unless I'm in low vacuum/ mild boost. Fuel trims are all jacked up right now. Looks like this idea will have to be scrapped because I even have a P0171 pending code as well.

Ugh... it is what it is I guess. Back to the basic URD design.