Overhead Compass/Temp Fix

I'd fixed mine once before in the past by soldering the little 510 chip onto the board. Well after another hot summer the compass stopped working again. When I pulled it, the 510 little piece was completely off the board. I looked around for someone locally to fix it, but no luck.

I found these guys on ebay named Module Master, and couldn't be happier with it. It's a rebuild service. So you pay them like $20ish and send your module to them. They fix it and test it. They also beefed up a few of the other weak looking solder points. I couldn't be happier with it. I don't have any stake in their company, just happy with their work.

 

@327.....did the rebuild service use new components or did they re-solder your old resistors back in? Hopefully they installed new ones; the old resistors are oxidized and won't take solder well.

I also heatsink them (actually a form of heatpipe) as they are slightly overloaded. I've not had a repair fail in almost a decade using this technique. The attached pic shows essentially how it is done, although I have a slightly modified system now (but don't have one to take a pic of)

For the folks interested in the DIY option, see my page here: https://siliconmethod.com/diy-tacoma-display-repair-guide/

 

By the way, for those looking for how to pull the overhead display down, here's the ancient video I made:



https://siliconmethod.com/

 

Thanks for this it works perfect in my truck now.

 

Thanks again for sending those out! Super cool of you
I got my resistors and fixed the overhead display. Works like new!

 

Nice

 

I lost the single screw that holds the entire overhead display. What size screw do I need to replace?

 

Thanks for the info...this little problem is still on my fix-it list...

 

I still have some resisters if u need any, free

 

It is dim, but works, it's been over a yr now, I have just recently got some 510s, hopefully it will be brighter, only thing is, the 510s are a lot smaller in size, does this mean anything?

 

Fixed mine today. Very helpful thread. Was something I intended on doing but was “too busy”. Happy it’s done now.

 

Just came across this thread. My compass / temp hasn't worked for a while now. I figured it was because I have a satellite radio antenna magnetically attached to the roof nearby. The manual says that could cause problems, so I figured that I caused it. But, maybe the only problem caused by the magnet would an inaccurate compass reading! I will look into this resistor fix unless someone can tell me that I caused a bigger issue. Thank you.

 

Took mine out a year ago to fix it. Still havent fixed it yet.

 

I'm glad I ran across this thread last night, fixed it this morning.

 

Mine just bit the dust. I guess tomorrow after class I know what my project is. Hopefully it just broke contact and I don’t need new 510s

 

A lot smaller in size...compared to what? The OEM resistors, or components you installed later?
If the resistors are smaller than the OEM's, don't use them...they won't be rated for the heat dissipation (wattage) necessary. Buy some 51 ohm axial lead 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistors and use those instead.

https://siliconmethod.com/diy-tacoma-display-repair-guide/

If you used other resistors, what are their ohm values? That might explain the dim display...

 

NOPE.
Those 1/4 or 1/2 watt axials you suggest are only good for 1/4 or 1/2 the current that the factory 1 watt resistors are capable of.

Also be aware that a 1218 (package size, not releated to the resistance value) is physically about half the size of 2512 (factory size) resistors, and can handle equal power (1W).

 

Your statements are wrong on a few levels. P = I2 x R , so the correlation between current handling and wattage capability is a function of the square.
Also, the factory design is not failing because of current handling capability of the resistors. They fail because:
-factory use of lead free solder (not their choice or fault, but the board design doesn't account for the RoHS directive)
-thermal cycles
-the entire assembly hangs upside down.

So, a 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor is more than enough to handle the milliamp levels of current to power the VFD. Leaded solder and the heatsinking capability of the axial leads allow the repair to last.
Putting physically larger and heavier components (as 1watt resistors are) will only increase likelihood of failure, up to and including pulling the copper pad off the board.

 

Before your brain melts from all the numbers, THE FACTORY RESISTORS ARE 1 WATT RESISTORS. I am not suggesting to go with anything bigger or heavier than factory. I'm suggesting that you stick with components that at least meet the original specifications.

If you feel like going off on an uneducated rant about why you think that something considerably smaller will be sufficient, then you will need to PROVE your position.

 

Well, my dads temp/comp display went out on Wednesday.

He's asking for my help fixing it and this thread is really great.

Going to pic up a soldering iron kit and try to repair it for him.