Rhino Rack/W BAKFLIP MX4 Mod

This write up stems from frustration of never having enough space in my short bed when taking more than two people on adventures.. while searching for solutions I came across quite a few, but really wanted something that would not take away from the look of the truck, and be able to be put on and taken off quickly- I realize everyone has their own taste and needs.. but hopefully this will help someone in my position that already has a tonneau cover and on occasion needs more storage space, yet can all be quickly taken off for the majority of their daily commuting.

As a disclaimer - I have done ZERO testing as to how this setup affects the weight limits set by Rhino Rack - Use this method at your own risk (obviously I feel its plenty sturdy enough for my needs)

Rhino Rack Part #'s
RTV Tracks 58.3" - Part# RTV148
Quick Mount RLT600 Leg Set - Part# RLT600
Vortex Bar (65") you can order black or silver Part# VA165 (x2)
X-tray (small) Part# RMCB01
I also ordered two fork mount bike racks and one set of 4 ski/fishing rod holders. They are universal and fit all vortex bars. If you need part #'s i can post them.

Tools
Drill
Rivet Nut Tool Kit - ( ) (if you prefer steel inserts you can buy those separately)
Various Drill Bits (I used a 3/32 for pilot holes and 1/4 for the rivnut inserts)
Marker
Tape Measure
Vacuum Cleaner
Screwdrivers
Provided Allen Keys (with kit)
Silicone Sealant (small qty .5oz or less) I used RTV gasket maker I had lying around.
Interior Trim/Panel removal Tool


I started out by laying out the Rhino Rack RTV tracks on the bed rails to find the right spacing and then marked holes with a marker.


Then I removed the tracks and drilled the marks with 3/32 bit through both the plastic and the bed rails.


I then removed the plastic bed rail caps using the interior trim tools. I started at the rear and lifted slightly enough to get the tool under it and kept pulling up with the tool at each clip until I worked my way all the way to the front of the bed.

You can see here what the clips look like that hold the cap on and what the bed rails look like without the caps. You can also see my finger pointing out the pilot hole I drilled.

I then confirmed my drill bit was the right size outer diameter for the rivnuts I choose to use (1/4 drill bit for 8-32 inserts). I test fit the rivnuts, then coated them in RTV just help prevent rusting/corrosion in the fresh drilled holes. I crimped them all down using the tool and checked for tightness with the correct screws by pulling up on them. They didn't BUDGE!



From here I used a 9/64 bit to open up the pilot holes in the plastic rail caps to allow for the screws to be inserted into the rivnuts. Then I reinstalled the plastic bed rail caps by pressing them down and ensuring all clips were secured.

I then laid the RTV tracks on the bed rails and inserted the screws for each hole drilled. I started all screws before I cranked them down. I used my impact driver and snugged them all nice and tight. The plastic bed rail caps did compress slightly, but did not flex or distort in anyway.


Once you have the RTV tracks installed, follow all other manufacturer recommendations for installation of the Rhino Rack.



Obviously I can not flip open my tonneau cover while the rack in in place, but it does allow me the extra storage space and lockable storage I needed for those weekend Tahoe trips. Plus the flexibility to remove the whole rack in about a minute with help from a friend (can be done solo, but awkward). The whole set up weights about 35 lbs.

If something doesn't make sense or you need further instructions - let me know!

Update: 2/24/22
For those wondering about the setup supporting a RTT. YES IT WILL!

I basically did some HW on Rivets and determined the original ones would likely not be sufficient breaking strength for supporting the weight i anticipated.

so- i found that stainless steel rivets in the size i was looking for (pics to follow) have like a 1200lb shear breaking point, but that a I’d also likely need a hydraulic riveter to crimp them. In this case i bought good Rivera and went with a cheap harbor freight pneumatic/hydraulic riveter. I drilled the old rivnuts out and replaced them all. Then threw the tent on, and embarked on a 12 day overland trip from NORCAL all the way to the Rimrocker Trail in Colorado back to Utah and hit the major parks camping off grid. Did i mention I brought my wife and a just turned 1 year old! Lol.. anyway! With a decent amount of not ultra aggressive wheeling, lots of miles and a 10ish nights sleeping in it. It held up REALLY well.

link to the video of the trip! https://youtu.be/q3s7UtIY1V4

 

this looks great. I've got the Bakflip Revolver X2 rolling tonneau, so I've been thinking about doing something similar but with a taller rack. I'll save this write up for later.

good work

 

Thanks!! The rolling cover would be nice.. when you get around to the project, let me know if you run into any snags- id be happy to help!

 

could be a while, but will do

 

Since the install- i have driven to tahoe twice with the rack loaded and around town for about a week with all positive results! I did not install the wind screen on the basket and there is NO wind noise like a typical roof rack, even at highway speeds.

I was able to leave the entire thing assembled and took it off in one piece solo! I did have my girlfriend help me put it back on just to ensure i could get the feet lined up.. all and all SUPER easy! Together the setup weighs about 30 lbs.

 

nice write up! Do u think this set up would be strong enough for a roof top tent?

 

Thanks!

Below is a link to an article i read which leads me to believe the answer is Yes!

With that being said- the one thing i wish I’d have done differently was use a slightly larger steel rivnut. Not that i think this will fail, but it would have been that extra insurance with an RTT.

The other thing is how gnarly your typical wheeling spots are. If you are doing ultra serious rock crawling, this certainly wouldn’t be as strong as say a fabricated welded rack mount. But for casual trail riding and medium grade wheeling, I’d trust it and will likely add an RTT at some point myself using this set up.

Hope that helps!

http://www.rhinorack.com.au/blog/2016/01/29/how-to-fit-your-roof-top-tent

 

any updates on this rack system?

 

No updates as to actual RTT use, and I’m not likely going to get one. I’ll eventually get a trailer for a few more creature comforts. But i still use the rack with two bikes, loaded cooler and it still works like a champ. I still personally feel that it would support and RTT.

 

Can you easily slide the mount points forward and back, to partially flip the Bakflip cover if you didn't have the basket preventing it?

 

You could, it would take you pulling the bars off(simply pulling the locked covers off, and clicking the two buttons) then using the Allen key to loosen and slide. But i set it up so that my rear bar is forward enough i can flip the back panel up all the time as long as the basket isn’t on. But all preferences, most the time i just plan to reach in and pull out whatever i need from under the cover. With the 5ft bed, it isn’t much of a stretch.

 

Subd

 

Is there a way (or negative impact) to using a spacer under the rail at each bolt? This would lift the rail just slightly and cause no warping or bending of the plastic rail cap. Even if just a small washer?

I like this idea for hauling my kayak above the tonneau and still having my camping gear dry (and tailgate closed. I may still need my hitch extender but it gives me full use of the bed.

 

Awesome write up! I also need the extra space with more than 2 people to Tahoe. I was starting to think a shell was my only option. I like this much better

 

Thanks man! It’s still holding strong! I use it for my mountain bikes and gear in the spring summer and ski racks in the winter. The best part is taking it off when I’m not actually using it. It literally takes about 3 minutes. It’s been a great addition. I’d recommend it to anyone with similar concerns and limitations.

 

Ya man my buddy did this super similar thing on his tundra for a kayak. It works great.
As for the spacers- up to you to do the extra work, but my plastic rails have yet to warp other than the unnoticeable amount when i cranked down the screws into the nutserts- as a whole it isn’t warped or distorted in anyway as far as an appearance is concerned. I’ve have two bikes and two large coolers FULL on the rack while off-roaring for many miles and have had zero issues. But totally up to you..?

I’m sure anyone out there would be stoked on additional mods that would make this process better- i was totally winging it when i set out on this adventure. Please share lessons learned or tips/tricks.

 

Thats awesome. Do you just leave the rails on full time?

 

The only thing i drive around with on is the hard mounted parts. “The rails” is what i would call them. But i disconnect the “cross bars” with the ski mounts and basket mounted to it for quick storage it stays as a big unit in my garage and when i need it i grab it and set it place, clip it in, lock it, and roll out. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

Good deal. Yup totally makes sense. thanks!

 

This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. Thanks for the detailed write up and pictures. Just curious... since I’ve never taken the plastic rails off before... how much “air space” is there between the metal where you inserted the rivnuts and the “removable” plastic rail caps?