Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

Bump

 

JBG1884 - either driveshaft will most likely work.. But keep in mind there is going to be a lot of axle wrap with a 4 inch block kit. This will cause driveline angle problems on acceleration.

 

Brother, I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the work you've put into this. I just had a local shop tell me today this wasn't possible, that they'd have to have a special yoke machined and the total cost would be around $1000 for a MODIFIED driveshaft. Based on what I'm seeing, with this list and the OE carrier bearing and joints I already supplied, they've got no excuses. Gonna print this out and go have a chat with them tomorrow.

 

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No worries man it was actually kinda fun and gave me a good base to fix my driveshaft.
Oh and if you really wanted to I found where you could upgrade the DC to 1350 from the 1330. Since all this is based off a yoke for the jeep dana 300 t-case and 27 spline there is tons of stuff out there for it. Just gotta look a little outside the box to figure it out.

 

Hey I got your message, definitely going to go this route if there's nothing keeping it from working. Funny thing is they're only about 10 mins from my office.

Thanks!

 

Definitely let us know what happens with this. I'm very disappointed in my local shop for not being able figure out how to pull off keeping the 1330s.

Jake

 

Knowing I can just order this stuff and rebuild it all myself, then just get the tube shortened and welded/balanced at a DS shop, I'm thinking this might be the best option for many going forward, if you're handy.

$250 in parts isn't exactly cheap, plus the cost of U-joints and a new carrier so that puts it in the $450 range plus probably $100-150 to have it welded and balanced. Realistically though $600 is about what an OE replacement DS costs, that'll probably still vibrate.

 

Has anybody actually had one of these built yet or are we still hoping it all just fits together? Looking for concrete proof of this working. Thanks!

 

You and everyone else. Pending a conversation tomorrow with the DS shop that said they couldn't do it, I'll most likely order everything and give it a go.

The tube adapter is about 9 thou undersized on the ID, so that'll have to be bored to size. Wishing I bought that lathe now...

 

The parts list that keeps the 1330 sized u-joints is theoretical at the moment.

The one using the double cardan joint with 1310 u-joints is proven.

 

Where's the 1310 parts list?

 

I've read about the 1310 & understand it's been done. I was specifically inquiring about the 1330 version. Thank you.

 

Starting at the front and working towards the diff:

2-4-4341 Spicer spline end yoke
Spicer 1310 u-joint
211355X Spicer centering yoke

$45 2-26-497 Center Yoke

2-26-497 Spicer double cardan center
Spicer 1310 u-joint
2-28-2977X Spicer Tube Yoke
NEAPCO 5368 - 3" to 3.5" adapter to fit 2-28-2977X to flipped and shortened rear driveshaft

Add a new center bearing if yours is worn and some cost for the work and a shaft balancing.

 

It is but as far as all the #s it should work just the same. Hopefully will have my new DS to hack apart and try the 1330 next month

 

Thanks! Minor correction to H-yoke part number above.

So I picked up my DS today and I'm just going to piece everything together myself and have the shop cut/weld/balance the shaft when I'm done. Going to go through everything thoroughly and decide if I want to try the 1330 DC or the proven 1310 DC.

 

The 26 spline yoke you have fits a 1.125" (1 1/8") cap diameter, everything else fits a standard 1330 series 1.062" (1 1/16") cap diameter. Gonna need a solve for that.

Edit: Correct PN for splined yoke is 2-4-3581-1X.
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p4..._1x_pinion_yoke_fits_dana_44_with_26_spl.html

Edit 2: The above yoke has threaded bolt holes, these will have to be drilled out to through holes so the bolts can thread into the centering yoke.

 

Appreciate the catch on the part number, I'll update my post to avoid any confusion.

I think for most people, the 1310 setup is going to be plenty fine, even if it is a small step down in u-joint ratings from stock. Plenty of vehicles, similarly powered and used/abused offroad as our Tacomas, run a 1310 u-joint. Breaking one would put you really close to the threshold of breaking a 1330 (someone previously posted a rating comparison between them) so if stock has been good enough for you thus far in how you use your truck, then a small step down to a 1310 would be a small cost for the driveline fix it serves. I for one am happy to trade 365 days a year of constant driveline vibrations for the risk of potentially needing to change some u-joints on the trail one day..I carry a few spares all the time anyways.

That said, if the 1330 setup does indeed work without real issue...there's no logical reason someone would choose the 1310 setup over it. All we're waiting on is to see how it comes together in the real world, with that slight diameter discrepancy and if that can be worked through.

 

Edited post above, someone may want to double check but I think it's right.

 

1330 is already small enough. I wouldn’t want to step down to a 1310. When a u-joint shits the bed off-roading, it usually destroys more than just that u-joint. I’ve seen some bad shit happen like floor boards ripped apart, brake lines destroyed, wires ripped out and so on.

 

Okay, building on what jman has already done, here's my parts list for a 1330 double cardan two piece driveshaft build, 2006 DCLB 4x4. Note I'm going for low/no maintenance OE type fitment here, so I'm using sealed joints and ball/stud yokes. Options for both in greasable form are given.

U-Joints (all): 1330 Series - Dana Spicer P/N 5-1330X (sealed, non-greaseable)
https://danaaftermarket.com/part/id...&ic=51330X&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART
(Use P/N 5-1330-1X for greasable joints)

Center Carrier Bearing: OE Replacement - Dana Spicer P/N 5002007
https://danaaftermarket.com/part/id/1011740?pn=5002007&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART

Splined Pinion Yoke: 26 Spline fits Dana 30/44, 1330 Series - Dana Spicer P/N 2-4-3581-1X
https://danaaftermarket.com/part/id/1006012?pn=2-4-3581-1X&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART

Note: This splined yoke has threaded holes which will have to be drilled out to through holes to accommodate bolting to centering yoke below.

Centering (Socket) Yoke: 1330 Series - Dana Spicer P/N 211996X (sealed, non-greasable)
https://danaaftermarket.com/part/id/1005072?pn=211996X&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART
(Use P/N 211179X for greasable socket)

Center (H) Yoke: 1330 Series - Dana Spicer P/N 2-26-527
https://danaaftermarket.com/part/id/1005653?pn=2-26-527&cp=0

Ball Stud Tube Yoke: 1330 Series, 3 inch tube - Dana Spicer P/N 2-28-3447X (with dust seal for non-greasable centering yoke)
https://danaaftermarket.com/part/id/1005694?pn=2-28-3447X&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART
(Use P/N 2-28-2187X for yoke without dust seal for greasable type centering yoke)

Tube Adapter Bushing: 3.5" to 3" - Neapco P/N 5368
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p3931_neapco_5368_increasing_bushing_3.0_inch_to_3.5_inch.html

Note: Bushing is designed for .083" wall tube (no idea what the factory tube is) and ID is .009" smaller than tube yoke OD - bushing will require some amount of machining to size.