Sound proofing behind rear seat Dynamat?

Noticed that especially with my mud terrains which I switch back and forth that there's a lot of road noise, wind noise and tire roar inside the cab. Can't hear it as bad up front but if you're in the back seat it's way more noticeable. I know that behind the seats is just some thin metal, wondering if anyone has done any sound proofing like Dynamat or similar with any success?

Thanks

 

Yes, may have done so. For the same reason you are wanting. I just turn radio louder, but it's not my daily drive. If it was I would be doing it. Search box should bring threads up on subject.

 

I think you will find several threads on it in the Audio section of this Forum, I bought some Noico Mat to do behind the rear seat but just have not had the chance yet.

 

I put 80mil noico below and behind the rear seats. Put foam in the c pillars and the rear cab mount bolt holes. Did this to try to quiet my rear diff howl. It sort of helped with that, but not a ton really. I’m no expert sound deadener installer though so YMMV.

 

Dynamat will only be a small improvement.

First, use B-Quiet Ultimate instead of dynamat, as it's way cheaper and provides better results at most temperature ranges. Apply this to the rear cab, all floor, inside of all doors. Then put closed cell foam in either 1/8" or 1/4" thickness (use whatever thickness can fit in the area you're working on) on all of the same areas, but this time on the face of the doors. Follow up all of the above with mass loaded vinyl. This process takes time and effort, but will have very significant results (did this to my own truck).

 

I did it - from the rear window down to the storage bins. Also did all 4 doors.

I noticed a significant difference but I also spend a significant amount of time in my truck.

1 layer dymat xtreme in each door and 2 down the rear of the cab.

 

In brief, is this a job an interior newb could take on or do you need some experience opening door panels etc???

 

I just got done. I used 50 mil Noico with about 40 % coverage, then a layer of Dynapad. Subsequently did the doors with the same 50mil Noico and used a roll of 1lb sq ft MLV covered front and back in Noico Green for the doors. It's a pretty amazing difference IMO.

 

It’s really not that hard. Just take your time be careful. Biggest thing with the door panels is make sure you have the cables for the door release attached and fully seated the correct way so you don’t end up with a door you can’t open.

Everything pretty much just pulls apart. It’ll probably feel like it’s going to break the first time you pull a panel off but it won’t. There are replaceable clips on the back side if some were to break. I’ve done 3 trucks now and didn’t have any issues.

A set of plastic trim removal tools comes in handy. These are what I use.

ABN Premium Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit - 11 Piece Pry Bar Set, Fastener Remover, No Scratch Trim Removal Set

ABN Premium Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit - 11 Piece Pry Bar Set, Fastener Remover, No Scratch Trim Removal Set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQPJSVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UDbnCbCVCZ78X

 

You don't really need to remove the cables at all as well. The piece they are attached to will snap out with the handle and lock mechanism. Just make sure the cables don't come loose when they're hanging there. I found that easier than removing and reattaching the cables, but really, as long as you're careful it's not at all hard to do it either way.

As @Shellshock says, the trim removal tools help a lot. You'll also want a

Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool for Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation Materials for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)

roller to get the sound deadener (Noico/Dynamat) properly laid down. I just used duct tape to hold up the MLV/Noico green laminate long enough to attach the panel.

 

Taking panels off are easy when you know the steps

 

If ya ever screw this up, just pull the handle past the usual spot. It wont break and will open

 

This is what I used, between the pad and the foam it did help reduce the road noise.

 

@StockerLocker18 I used noice 80Mil (

Noico Black 80 Mil 36 Sq Ft Car Sound Deadening, Butyl Automotive Deadener Restoration mat and Noise dampening Insulation

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Deaden...ns&keywords=noico+80+mil+sound+deadener&psc=1) and I covered the whole panel behind the backseats and covered the majority of the floor under the carpet. I will be doing the door panels when I upgrade my speakers. I have noticed a significant difference. It is fairly easy install, just a bit time consuming. I would recommend getting a roller to help with the application to ensure you properly adhere the butyl. There are plenty of videos.

You will probably break a few clips, you can pick up this pack of interior clips from ebay which will cover all of the clips in the vehicle for future mods.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/292-PCS-FE...-FOR-TOYOTA-/223309332633?hash=item33fe460099

 

Thanks everyone! I think I’m going to take on this project when the weather improves

 

FYI:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-rear-seats-and-back-panel-from-2016-access-cab.411587/