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Removing rear seats and back panel from 2016 Access Cab

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by kevin604, Jan 20, 2016.

  1. Jan 20, 2016 at 2:45 PM
    #1
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    I want to build storage in the back, possibly for the fridge. Less than 2000 km and the rear area is already getting marked up from usage. So I decided to remove it all.

    Basic impressions:

    1) If you see a bolt remove it.
    2) There are at least 4 different types of clips that the panels use. I found it frustrating trying to figure out when to force and when to finesse.
    3) The little hatches that needed to be removed to get access to bolts must be one time use. Man I could not remove them without scratches.
    4) I should have had a Gopro going in case I ever reinstall them. Hopefully this thread will be useful to at least me in the future.
    5) What little insulation there was does do a significant sound dampening. I can hear every street noise now!

     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2016
    FRESH OJ, DrRoboto, bobcat68 and 3 others like this.
  2. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:11 PM
    #2
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    I removed the 3 bolts securing the seat. 2 bolts on the door side, 1 bolt on the inside for each seat.

     
    tacomate likes this.
  3. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:16 PM
    #3
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    Then I pulled out the covers on the back panel and removed those bolts.

    Yanked off the headrest cover plate

    and the child restraint covers (at the bottom of the panel:

    Big tank and voila:

    Here is a picture of the rear panel from the back so you can see the different clips and snaps:
     
    tacomate likes this.
  4. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:19 PM
    #4
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    I removed the sound dampening panel:

    Now I'm left with the headrests:


    4 bolts each to remove.

    Now the rear panel is completely void.


    Time for Seatbelts.
     
  5. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:25 PM
    #5
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    I removed the buckles.

    Now this was the only part that was tricky. I couldn't remove the panels on the side easily. I would recommend removing the bolt under the rear SRS hatch. I mangled this guy getting access to the bolt.

    Then I pulled off the panels and removed the bottom seatbelt roller first.

    The Shoulder attachment came off easily, no photo of that.
     
  6. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:31 PM
    #6
    SamChieftan

    SamChieftan Well-Known Member

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    Interior LEDs, Truck Mat, Door sills
    Excellent write and pics ...

    Thank You for sharing
     
    kevin604 [OP] likes this.
  7. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:32 PM
    #7
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    I removed the child restraints at the bottom

    I removed the console in between the seats.


    I removed the underlying cubbyholes as well.

     
  8. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:37 PM
    #8
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    I've left the carpet as its one continuous piece. But now the back is completely bare and ready for a storage mod in the future.


    I can definitely hear a big noise difference even with that minimal insulation.

    Let me know if you have any questions or need more photos while the rear is bare.

    thanks
    Kevin
     
    Canadian Joe likes this.
  9. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:43 PM
    #9
    ElderP

    ElderP Well-Known Member

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    Installed Cooper At/3's (265/70R16) and ProComp 7089 Rims. Tinted front windows. Did the Fog Light Anytime mod. Did the tailgate mod. Added running boards. Adding sound Deadening from RAAMaudio. Replacing stock speakers with Polk Audio DB6501's.
    Good post. You may want to add some sound-deadening (since everything is removed) before doing the storage mod. Deadening makes a HUGE difference.
     
  10. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:47 PM
    #10
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    Yeah I agree. For giggles, I tossed some Pink insulation back there from another project and made a huge difference. So I'll check to too see if dynamat is worth the money or I just treat the back like a basement wall and frame it in :) That way I could mount some tools on it.
     
  11. Jan 20, 2016 at 3:57 PM
    #11
    ElderP

    ElderP Well-Known Member

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    Installed Cooper At/3's (265/70R16) and ProComp 7089 Rims. Tinted front windows. Did the Fog Light Anytime mod. Did the tailgate mod. Added running boards. Adding sound Deadening from RAAMaudio. Replacing stock speakers with Polk Audio DB6501's.
    I got my deadening material from RAAMaudio. 100% satisfied with the price and quality of the product.
     
    Heepspo likes this.
  12. Jan 20, 2016 at 4:40 PM
    #12
    SBC

    SBC Active Member

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    In the picture of the rear interior panel are the pink "things" fasteners? If so, can you show a close up?
     
  13. Jan 20, 2016 at 6:47 PM
    #13
    DWreckOK

    DWreckOK New Member

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    Nice thread. This answers some questions that I have and gives me some ideas on what I can do back there to pic a little extra space. My last two trucks have been full size and I know an access cab Tacoma will be a little tight at times but the long bed means more to me than have four doors.
     
  14. Jan 20, 2016 at 7:19 PM
    #14
    jeepinoutwest

    jeepinoutwest Well-Known Member

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    You're right those damn plastic caps are a bear to remove without scratching them and the panel up.
     
  15. Jan 20, 2016 at 8:06 PM
    #15
    strman

    strman Member

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    I'm only interested in removing the console between the seats. Do you have to remove panels to get to the bolts you show in the picture and once the bolts are removed it just pulls out? Also isn't there a tab to depress to remove the headrests like on other cars. Thanks!
     
  16. Jan 20, 2016 at 10:02 PM
    #16
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    The four bolts are in the console. No need to touch the rear panel but I'll double check in the morning.


    Nope you have to remove the rear panel and unbolt the headrests. Not like a car, not sure why
     
  17. Jan 20, 2016 at 10:03 PM
    #17
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    Yup I'll take a picture in the morning. The rear panel popped out with little effort.
     
  18. Jan 21, 2016 at 12:57 AM
    #18
    KeysWes

    KeysWes Member

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    Still need to get the Part Numbers for the SR Utility Package plastic pieces.

    Interior (14).jpg
     
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  19. Jan 21, 2016 at 7:56 AM
    #19
    kevin604

    kevin604 [OP] Active Member

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    That is cool. Boy that would work. However I plan to sticks mollecomoatible board or peg board to store tools and bags vertically.
     
  20. Jan 21, 2016 at 8:29 AM
    #20
    DakotaTacoma

    DakotaTacoma Well-Known Member

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    1996, 2.7, 4x4, 5-speed, extra cab
    3" Downey lift, K and N FIPK, NWOR Try Y header, 31x10.5 BFG KOs
    Great write-up.
    Thanks! Ill be coming back when I disassemble mine. I will likely never have anyone riding around back there.
     

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