4cyl over 6cyl, any regrets?

I've had every motor available in a tacoma and pre tacoma's since 1985 except the 3.0. My opinion is the 4.0 is the strongest for a truck motor, the 3.5 is a mini van motor, and all of the 4cyl versions are overbuilt, simple to maintain, and will last forever if taken care of. Had a 17 SR 4x4 4door with the 3.5 auto, the 1.5 yrs I had it I was looking for a SR 4cyl 5speed 4x4. Took longer than expected to find a used one that suited me. Traded and drew 4,500 boot and never looked back. Toyota trucks have the reputation they have, because of the 4cyl.

 

I loooove my 4cyl, but the 3rd gen transmission ecu sucks balls at interstate speeds over 70. Shifts through gears at 5000 rpms like 4-5-6-5-4-5-6-5-4-5-6, brings your gas mileage to 10mpg and it doesn't feel healthy at all. Short term fix, stick it in S5, but man they just fixed the issue for the 3.5's, they need to fix this shit for the 2.7's as well.

 

Another plus for the 4 cylinder trucks. I have not heard of the 3rd brake light leaking like on the V6 models.

 

Really? Interesting! Cab should be the same.

 

The 3rd brake lights are different.

 

That's odd.

 

Tacoma SR



TRD Sport

 

Thank you for bringing this to my attention. Really, thanks!

 

I put a LCE street header on my 2018 2.7, the extra power and torque cut the shifting way down, as in I really don't notice it any more.

 

This is the factory exhaust manifold on the 2nd gen 2.7. Looking at the construction, how is this not considered a header? Sure looks like one to me...

 

It's not equal length, and the runners are smaller than the aftermarket options.
BUT for what it is, it's better than most OEM manifolds.

 

My 2019 4 cylinder AC auto 4x4 is great. It has plenty of power and great fuel mileage. One of the few reasons for choosing the 4 cylinder is because my 09 with the V6 let me down at 134000 miles. The head gasket started to leak and the dealer wanted to charge 3400 for a new head gasket install. I declined because no sense in repairing with that many miles. I had 4 Toyota trucks and the 09 V6 was a piece of crap.

 

I owned an 06 4cyl auto for exactly 9years. Not one engine related problem. U joint on driveshaft went out and the cat went to shit just months before trading it in, most likely due to putting nothing but premium in it the whole time I owned it. From there I got a 16 trdor v6 auto. Kept it a year and two months and now im in a 17 4runner. The 1grfe 4.0 in the 2nd gen and still in the 4R is a real truck engine and has been proven to be one of the most reliable v6 ever made. It’s actually the only gas option in the forbidden fruit land cruiser 70 series still sold today but of course not in the US. The 2gr-fks is another story. Its got a ways to go to prove itself. How long the direct injection system is gonna last is my main concern. It’s complicated and unnecessary and for the 1mpg gain over the 4.0, not really worth it. It is however amazingly powerful in the camry where it belongs.
Now I wanna vent about engines we CANT have in the US. While we’re on the subject of overbuilt, slow but cockroach/ak47 reliable, lets talk about the 1HZ diesel i6. Go to toyota gibralter stockholdings and amongst the few bare bones models, you’ll find the land cruiser 70 series in pickup, wagon, and even ambulance configuration. All equipped with the 1HZ naturally aspirated diesel with absolutely no computer or electrically controlled parts aside from the glow plugs of course and still built and sold brand new to this day. Im sure a rare few on here will drool over these slugs the way i do. It’s just the simplicity that gets me. Anyway, they’re unattainable and I’ll never have one.
When I’m not broke and can have multiple vehicles for different uses, I will definitely be getting another Tacoma with the buzzy, weezing 2tr-fe. Thank you for reading my book

 

Why did you use premium only?

 

I was told that the vvt would adjust for higher octane gas and get slightly better power and mileage. I was a pretty gullible 18 year old so i ate it up. Regardless, the truck served me well, stuck with me through thick and thin and never felt lacking of power. It was an automatic as well. Like I said in my last post, when I’m better off financially, I’ll definitely have another 2trfe

 

No regret here. I live in Florida, no mountains, totally flat.I don’t hauling or carry heavy things. My wife car is a Fj Cruiser 2007 six cylinders, you can feel the difference in power but, I still very happy with my 4 cylinders Tacoma.

 

I have "BIG" regrets. I traded a "98" Taco 4X4, 2.4, 5 spd., for a 2013 Taco 4X4, 2.7, auto. & I'm very disappointed. I had driven the "98" for more than 10 yrs. & never complained about the power of the 2.4, it was great, cruised along just fine, Rarely shifted it on any of the hills in my area. I traded for the 2013, thinking the larger 2.7 eng. plus 15 yrs of newer, better, technology, would compensate for the auto. trans., it didn't. This thing is a slug, compared to my old "98" taco. It seems like it's lugging, or straining, while just cruising down the rd. At the first sight of a hill, it unlocks the torque converter, & most times also shifts down a gear then shifts back up again. Seems like it's always shifting at places my old "98" model didn't need to shift. If I drive with the trans. in 3 rd. instead of OD, it both unlocks the locking converter "&" shifts down to 3rd gear gear it runs & does real good, but raises the eng speed appx. 700 to 800 rpm. & that's is a little faster than I want to run it. I'm trying to find a way I can either disable the locking torque converter, that will increase the engine speed by about 300 to 400 rpms., or get the locking torque converter to lock up, while the trans. is in 3 rd gear, would also increase eng. speed by 300 to 400 rpms. I think it would make this thing a lot more comfortable to drive, with a lot less shifting & straining. I'm hoping, if I can find a way, this may also help the mpg. as the eng will be running a little faster, but it will also be running free'r, not straining all the time. Please, wish me luck, I love the Taco's, but this thing is a slug!!!

 

I’m confused about driving in 3rd in auto and having it shift down to 3rd. Are you driving it in S3?

I love this truck but I agree that it’s a dog, and shifts up and down way too often. Interstate cruising is very annoying. It goes 6-5-4-6-5-4-6-5-4 on me constantly until I put it in S5 and drive the speed limit, otherwise it gets stuck in 4th gear at 3500 rpms and gets me 14mpg if I’m lucky. The truck is heavier now, and crosswinds affect it majorly on the highway. What can we do?

Edit: also doesnt help that I’m riding with a 3” boss lift in the front with 10 leaves in the back and pushing 33’s.....BUT STILL!!!!

 

My 2013 auto. trans. shifter has 4 positions L-2-3-D. If I'm driving in D, at say 2000 rpm. & shift from D to 3 the rpm will go up to appx. 800 rpm. It does it fast enough it seems like it just changes 1 time. Actually what it does 1st it unlocks the converter (up appx 400 rpm) then 2nd it shifts from D to 3 (up another 400 rpm) = 2800 rpm.. Then move the shifter from 3 to D & it will shift a noticable 2 times 1st from 3 to D (down 400 rpm.) then lock the converter (down another 400 rpm.) = back down to 2000 rpm. If I leave the shifter in 3 all the time, all is good, engine not straining & not shifting on any hills, but the engine is running too many rpm. for normal driving. If I could split the difference & run at appx 2400 rpm., the eng. shouldn't be straining as bad & shifting on every little up-grade like it does at 2000 rpm. nor be running too fast & not needing to shift on any hills like it does at 2800 rpm. Either driving in 3 with the converter locked or driving in D with the converter unlocked should get me the results I think I'm looking for. but I haven't figured how to accomplish either yet. Hoping for help from TW, but no luck yet. Please don't advise a lower geared differential as I'm not going to spend that much money, just to see if it works like I think it would. If I knew the 400 rpm increase would work, it would probably be worth the cost of a lower geared differential & putting the trans. back to normal

 

That looks exactly like a header.