Why LEDs should not be run in Halogen reflectors

Confused about the info on this topic. I’ve been trying to make sense of the several threads on this and have so far ruled out LED’s and HID’s.

Is concensus that the GE Megalight +130 bulbs are the best / easiest upgrade? I really don’t like the color temp of the light blue coated bulbs, which these appear to be. I much prefer the stock color temp but am looking for higher output and farther projection.

 

My LeD's DoN't BlInD oNcOmInG tRaFfIc

 

The GE +130s bulbs are the best performing ones in the 3rd gen projector. They have a small blue coating on the tip, not over the filament, so the bulk of the output is unaffected. They are 3500k in color temp vs 3200k stock. A lightly coated bulb by comparison is typically 4000k+.

If you want the highest performing bulb at stock color temp, an H9 will provide the best output. You do need to trim an internal tab off the bulb for it to fit the OEM plug, which can be whittled off with a small knife. If happy with the results some members have made a small adapter harness for a few dollars so they are plug and play.

If you want something that is plug and play, with no modification that is stock color and available domestically, look at the Philips Xtreme +100 bulbs. They won’t perform to the levels of the two above, but they will be an improvement over stock.

Unsure if serious...

 

Great, thanks.

So, other than color temp, what are the performance differences between these two options?

My apologies if it’s been covered.

 

See my post #347 here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...1-not-led-or-hid.435419/page-18#post-19074543

 

Thanks. GE it will be then.

 

Bad news is that I bought some LEDs from someone local. Good news is that I didn't spend that much. I look at the round curve tonight on the neighbor's garage door and the V when I looked directly at them. No straight cut-off and no ball. Oops. I'll swap them out this weekend.

 

What year truck do you have? I can provide a much higher performing recommendation than poor performance LEDs.

 

2010.

 

I'm starting to see dead PnP LED's in vehicles so it seems the 30K rated hours are only for optimal conditions and not under hood conditions/extreme fluctuating temps. I'm sure it's different brand to brand and should get better with the tech.

 

See this thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-headlight-upgrade-h4-not-led-or-hid.398066/

I think this also due to cheap made in China products that don’t meet their claimed specs. I see aftermarket LED headlight failures and also aftermarket LED brake light failures or accent light failures all the time. And the brake lights are not subjected to the underhood conditions. Yet I don’t see OEM LED failures, so it isn’t that they are LEDs, it is likely the quality of the manufacturing.

 

Hey Crash,
Read a LOT of your threads and was always anal about headlights . My other car is factory HID and I've been spoiled with the HID headlights. I've at the moment have LED (not cheap ones) and may try the Retrofit Source H11B Morimotos Elite. What will be the main difference between 35W and 50W ? Brightness? I'm not concened about snow since I live in hawaii.
Street lighting here sucks. Any input appreciate it.

 

See post #14 here for technology a comparison. You definitely do not want LED, the performance is terrible for beam focus and distance projection. There are some decent inexpensive, simple and effective halogen upgrades.

If considering HID, go with the 35w kit. 55w is rediculously bright and no reputable vendor will actually sell a 55w kit. They are so bright they actually reduce your own distance vision by blinding you as the driver with massive foreground light causing your eyes to constrict which ironically reduces your ability to see at night and the contrast will be too great for you to see beyond the cut off of your own lights. The overdriving of the bulbs will cause bulb life to be cut in half or less, and as you increase the wattage to HIDs the efficacy goes way down, so the more you boost power the less light is returned, and instead of more light it is turned to heat in the bulb causing it to run extremely hot, which then also causes the color temperature to degrade. So your 'white' bulbs will be more yellowish when overdriven. Nothing good comes out of that. Your stock lights are about 1300 lumens, a 35w HID is 3200 lumens, that is more than plenty.

 

If anyone is looking to sell their LED's ill buy them

 

I apprecite it. 35W it is.
The Morimoto Elite HID looks like a good kit. We'll see. I'm sure it'll be better than the LED.

 

I'm confused on this. Long term HID use will yellow the headlight casing? Definitely dont want my headlights yellowing over time due to HID lights.

Was planning on buying the Morimotos 5.5k 35w but wanted your clarification on my top question before pulling the plug

 

No not the housing. Overdriving a 35w HID bulb with a 55w ballast causes the bulb to drop in color temperature. So your ‘white’ 5000k light may actually be in the low 4K range for example. There are no 55w HID bulbs. With a 35w ballast the bulb should operate at its designed color temperature.

You may also find this thread interesting:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-hid-vs-led-vs-halogen-h11-projector-headlights.589465/

 

I read that first before looking here. Great info for sure, thanks!

 

I'm curious of what orientation the LEDs were installed? I decided to try out a set of the XD Xtreme Pro LEDs H11s in my 4Runner. I definitely have a hotspot with a clean cutoff. I don't think I'm a fan of the 5000k color temp though.

I could post pics tonight if you're curious.

I'm going to try a set of the GE Megalight +130 (out of stock at a few places). I never did get to try the Philips H4 +150 in my Taco, but hoping there's an H11 version soon.

Edit: my problem with the LED install, is drilling a hole through the dust cap, and compromising protection from the elements. I had to modify the install to keep things sealed.

 

3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, which is the correct orientation. 4Runner has different oddball side entry projectors vs the Tacoma’s more standard rear entry projectors. So you end up with an LED facing forward and back in a 4Runner vs to the sides in a Tacoma. The forward facing LED in the T4R will give a better appearance of a hot spot at close range but it isn’t using any of the optics to consentrate the beam so as a result it will not be focused to project distance.