School me on snow/mud recovery

I'm not into hard core off roading, but when out exploring there is a chance one could get stuck (or drive into a snow-filled ditch that looked like a parking spot ). I've read a dozen or so articles and watched a number of videos and for the most part I get how to do this as well as what not to do (attach to a hitch ball, for example).

However, most everything I've read/watched seems to be based on ideal situations and they don't clarify some things. So here are a few questions I have.

1. The bow shackle hitch I picked up can be installed horizontal or vertical. Since you don't want to pull on the side of the shackle, I'm assuming that if the recovery vehicle is off to the side you want to install the shackle vertically so it can pivot toward the other vehicle. Vertical would work for a straight pull as well (with potentially a 1/4 twist in the strap). So would just using it vertically in all situations be fine or are there specific times when horizontal is better? I was thinking that even with a straight pull it might not end up truly straight so being able to pivot a bit would be better.

2. If using a true snatch strap (one that stretches), how much slack should you have and how much acceleration is needed? The videos suggested 5-10 feet of slack and about 20 mph for the recovery vehicle. Sound right? Seems kind of fast to me and can you even get up to 20mph in 10 feet?

3. How beefy of a recovery strap is needed for our trucks? The ARB seems a popular one and the 2 3/8" strap is rated at 17,000 lbs. That's about 3x the weight of the truck so would that be fine?

4. Of all the various 4wd modes in the OR, which one makes the most sense if you are the one pulling or the one stuck? For example, 4low wouldn't allow for as much acceleration but potentially more pulling force.

 

Bump to see if a new crowd has any info.

 

Taco's don't get stuck. Hence the reason for no replies.

 

I've always thought pulling in 4L makes the most sense.

 

1. The bow shackle hitch I picked up can be installed horizontal or vertical. Since you don't want to pull on the side of the shackle, I'm assuming that if the recovery vehicle is off to the side you want to install the shackle vertically so it can pivot toward the other vehicle. Vertical would work for a straight pull as well (with potentially a 1/4 twist in the strap). So would just using it vertically in all situations be fine or are there specific times when horizontal is better? I was thinking that even with a straight pull it might not end up truly straight so being able to pivot a bit would be better.

"as situation dictates"...use your head and you probably cant dork it up TOO much. The loop on a snatch strap will arc around the shackle if it is slightly off center. Nothing to worry about. For extreme lateral pulls, you'd be better off orienting the shackle vertically like you said.

2. If using a true snatch strap (one that stretches), how much slack should you have and how much acceleration is needed? The videos suggested 5-10 feet of slack and about 20 mph for the recovery vehicle. Sound right? Seems kind of fast to me and can you even get up to 20mph in 10 feet?

Start smaller and go bigger if you need. 20 MPH is pretty fast, and there's no way you are getting there in 10-20 feet. Also, if you are in loose sand for example, the pull requirement will be a lot less than in mud, etc.

3. How beefy of a recovery strap is needed for our trucks? The ARB seems a popular one and the 2 3/8" strap is rated at 17,000 lbs. That's about 3x the weight of the truck so would that be fine?

That strap is what I have. Works plenty well for vehicles around our size. Just don't expect to snatch out a F450 and camper with it.

4. Of all the various 4wd modes in the OR, which one makes the most sense if you are the one pulling or the one stuck? For example, 4low wouldn't allow for as much acceleration but potentially more pulling force.

Depends on how stuck they are and where. If in sand, a slow and steady tug in 4 low would be good. If they are just hung up on a rock, but aren't really stuck, you could do it in 2wd and probably be just as effective. I would highly recommend not snatching in reverse though. It has the potential to mess some things up in your diffs and tranny apparently, and that would be a bad day out on the trail.

 

I will add, if in nasty thick mud, break the suction on the wheels. And remember that each wheel stuck adds 25% of vehicle weight to the pull. Just a tip from a guy that used to recovery for a living.

 

I haven't gotten stuck in the Tacoma yet, but I'm also running some Falken All-Terrains. The stock tires were a little too slick for my liking.

As for recovery gear, you may want to invest in some traction devices. I've got some cheap Amazon knock-off Maxtrax for 2 tires should I gets stuck.

I'll be honest though, we're at a huge advantage with our trucks compared to most midsize and virtually all full size trucks. I've done a decent amount of offroading in mud, and I just haven't gotten bogged. I've always been able to get out of stuff. (knock on wood)

I will say, there have certainly been on hills that I couldn't climb due to the slippery conditions, but I've always been able to just turn around and get out some other way.

 

I've got that ARB 17k snatch strap too by the way. Haven't had to use it yet, but I used somebody else's in Moab to recover an Xterra.

 

I've always been in 4lo snatching people out of mud holes, never really paid attention to my speed but 20mph seems a little quick in such a short distance. last time I was stuck we used a pulling chain and a had two 3/4 tons tied together, I was really in the shit that time haha. I still prefer using snatch straps in mud though.

 

Yeah, we got a few trucks properyly stuck this last weekend in the snow. Maxtrax and a shovel did the heavy lifting.

 

That's a great resource. I'm gonna bookmark that one.

 

They do when you drive off the edge of a plowed road and find the hidden ditch.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Could you expand on the reverse thing a bit. I'm assuming you mean that the vehicle doing the pulling shouldn't be doing it in reverse. Would this apply to any type of recovery including just a steady, gentle pull like someone stuck in a small snow drift but no traction (e.g. a 2wd car) rather than a full, hard snatch? I would assume the one being pulled out could be in reverse if they are being pulled out backward as that's the only option.

 

I've never been stuck but I screwed up last year and pulled out a Chevy 2500 with a strap and only one of my shackles on my Pelfrybilt Aluminum front bumper. Bent the bumper mount out about 1". I gently drove into a tree to get it back to spec but once you bend aluminum its just a matter of time before it breaks. Moral of the story....equalize your tow mounting don't rely on a single point of connection unless its a hitch. :-( I don't have a winch but I suspect if I did I would probably end up ripping the bumper off at some point. Shame on me for going with the Aluminum.

 

Which ones? I found some called MAXSA for $150 but some comments mentioned not great in snow. I'm mostly going to use them in snow if I need them.

 

I believe the reverse issue is due to the fact that the gearing isn't as torquey, the gear itself is less robust, and its not synchronized.

I recovered someone in reverse before, but it was due directly to the terrain. (no room to turn around)

I don't plan to make a habit of it.

 

$108 X-BULL New Recovery Traction Tracks Sand Mud Snow Track Tire Ladder 4WD (Green,3gen), Bag+Hardware+Tracks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HN2BL...&pd_rd_r=d5e8e2bd-1a86-11e9-a1d6-d7c18bc79752

I'm pretty I found these for cheaper when I bought them. (like $75 bucks)

I've heard decent things about them, but haven't had to use them. My thought is that these make a decent snow shovel and its better than nothing.

 

Yep, that's the only reason I pull backwards too, and gentler pulls at that.

I had those X-bulls before I bought my maxtrax. (I'm actually featured on X-bulls Instagram). They do the job for 1/4th the price, but they feel very different in the hand. The other thing is the Xbulls are a lot thicker. Good for getting over stuff if you stack them, but in the snow they are harder to get properly wedged under the tire.



Yanking this beast out of a very narrow and deep sand dune. This was the moment they got their own traction again:

 

These look interesting.

Speedmaster PCE561.1002 Speedmaster 4WD Recovery Traction Tracks Sand Mud Snow O

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B2QPBSG/