How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

I'd take that a step farther and would rather go back to what my '85 had--no ADD, but hubs. The ADD on my T100 was vacuum operated, as I recall. Is that what you suggest? Back in the dark ages, when I got my driver's license, hubs were virtually unheard of on 4WDs. I'm not sure they are really necessary.

I'm not sure the supposed economy of the ADD system is worth it.

 

Replace that $300 actuator once and full time hubs gas price is nulled out

Edit: Here's a nerdy post where I calculated a theoretical "savings" you get with ADD actuator

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-14#post-19012896

 

I'm not advocating modifying the truck. At my stage of life, that is more hassle than I want. I'm just wishing Toyota had offered the simpler setup on my truck.

 

I’m dealing with this same problem. Will solder the connections and see what happens. I’m seeing some aftermarket as well as OEM actuators out there for sale.
I’m sure everyone has an opinion, but does anyone have experience with the aftermarket parts?

 

Has anyone done the TCCM reset and had success with it?

 

Wat dat

 

Transfer case control module

 

Never heard of it being reset capable. It's just a PCB with a couple of relays and transistors, nothing fancy about the module. 99.999% of the time the ECM is not the issue anyhow.

 

Well the actuator motor works, switch works and basically the only thing that hasn’t been reset is that ecm.

 

Maybe I just don't understand what exactly resetting it does, but maybe worth a shot? Check the detent limit switches on the transfer case for the 4x4 and 4LO and see if they work.

 

Did you try the reset? Any luck? I’m about to grab a second 4x4 module from wreckers tomorrow! 60$, not bad if it doesn’t help it...?!

 

I didn’t do the reset. I did remove the actuator and tried reinstalling it in several positions to see if it would change anything. It didn’t. Tomorrow I’m going to test the sensors on the transfer case and see if they are bad or if the wire harness got corroded after being submerged some time ago. Then I’ll try it.

$60 ain’t a bad price to take a gamble with.

I’m also going to remove the transfer case actuator cover and take a look at that. Maybe it got water inside and is corroded.

 

I am experiencing many of the same issues in this thread, and it looks to be relatively straight forward, i do have a few questions. how much diff oil can you expect to lose when removing and I also Ordered Permatext 29208 the right stuff gaskey because it allegedly cures and is ready to go right away rather than the typical 24 hours needed, the question is, how difficult will it be to get the ADD off if i need to do it again or dont do something right first time around?

$21 Permatex 29208 The Right Stuff 1 Minute Black Gasket Maker, 5 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNV8U/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

U lose a few ounces when u remove the actuator. I use blue RTV and I don’t wait to refill or torque. It’s never leaked. I’ve removed mine a few times already.


My brother in law has access to a full ECM scanner. Gonna get it scanned and see if I can find out where my issue is.

 

I’m also dealing with the flashing 4WD light.
Front shaft turns when 4 Hi is selected.
Pulled my actuator today, the contacts were pristine and the motor worked in both directions. Soldered things while I was in there.
Re-assemble, and no 4WD.
Took it apart again to make sure everything worked. I can power the actuator off the battery, it works. Fork moves back and forth no problem.
Re-assemble again, this time making absolutely sure that the actuator engages the collar.
Still nothing.
Ideas?
Would the front shaft still turn if the T-case actuator has an issue?

My actuator contacts after 35K miles

 

Damn that thing looks super clean inside though!!!

 

this picture was taken before the soldering I hope...!?

 

Yeah, it looked new - which actually worried me. I was hoping for an obvious problem there.
Anyway, since I had it apart I soldered it up and tested it. Works fine.
Been reading about the T case and front being out of sync. It just doesn’t seem that the front actuator is getting power.

 

How do you get the t case and front actuator back in sync?

 

So what would happen if:
I powered up the ADD, moved the fork to the engaged position
Slid the locking collar to the engaged position
Installed it with the axle locked.