Let's see your FJ case swap

I've got an auto and will be moving the whole drivetrain back a couple of inches (4.7 V8 swap). I'll also be installing a Tacobox from Marlin when it arrives last update was 6 weeks a week ago. And doing the FJ case swap. Not going to twin stick as mentioned earlier in this thread with the crawl box I can have 2 low using that. Never had a desire for 2 low anyways. If it gave front dig capability than I'd be more inclined to do twin sticks even though I doubt I'd use it.

I see mention of people wanting to maybe use an Atlas case. I spoke with NWF a couple years ago about a black box for the Tacoma and they said they would build one that would mate to an Atlas but not to the Toyota chain case. I'm sure if more people inquired they would be more interested in getting on building the reduction box. They did pick up the Land Cruiser market when Marlin let the Land cruiser crawl box slip by the wayside, I was enquiring about those for years as to when they would be available. The Black Box is also stronger since it's a planetary reduction box.

 

Hey I have a quick question.

Would it be OK to modify the T-case for twin sticks but then use the OEM shifter anyway? My case came with a factory shifter and I'm not sure if I really need the twin shifters. So while I still have the case on my work bench can I modify it for twin sticks just in case I want to swap them in sometime in the future? Then the whole twin stick install could happen from in the cab at a later date.

Anyone fore see any problems with this?

 

It will work but the shift pattern will be wonky, the shifter would be able to flop in between the hi/lo and 4x4 shift rail causing potential problems. There is also nothing holding the shift rail in place on the side that you are not having a shifter in at that point so the case could accidentally pop into neutral or 4wd when not desired.

 

Ah I see. Best avoided then. Thanks for the insight!

 

Floor sealed. The Trail Gear shift boot:
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-133504-toyota-twin-stick-shifter-boot.html
Has a bigger footprint, has the trim ring included, and is wider between the two boots. Way better for sealing the floor than the one that RST sends.

 

Hey have any of you guys put on the FJ diff tube to get rid of the whole add system?

 

I plan on doing that this spring/summer.

Read up on this great post:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

 

Oh yeah...I saw that. I was curious if anyone had any problems with it. I’m gonna do that and the dual stick T-case swap at the same time here soon

 

I remember some guys being on the fence about it.

 

It's possible but will make your front drive shaft spin all the time. Also no 2lo that way unless you get twin sticks

 

Yeah twin sticks is the plan. Sitting in the shopping cart right now. My mechanic friend said he couldn’t really think of anything too detrimental but I wanted to check with some of you guys before I pulled the trigger on the diff tube part.

 

Seems like lots of other vehicles use a similar system for engaging 4wd. The FJ obviously is one of them. My sister has a 2011 Wrangler and to engage 4wd you just pull on the t case lever, no buttons or switches are needed. The company I work for also has an old 2003 F150 and it’s the same way, just pull the lever into 4hi at any time, in motion or stopped.

There may be a slight amount of increased drag with the front drive shaft always turning but it’s probably minimal.

Additional vibration may be a problem. To that end I remember someone recommending doing the ECGS bushing in the front diff if you use the FJ front axle setup.

 

@6 gearT444E did it.

 

That link above is my old account and yes been running that setup for a few years now with no issues. It's the way many trucks came from the factory anyway with full time hubs, and the same design as any vehicle with an awd/4wd option.

Any modification you can do to rid yourself of electronics for the drivetrain is a good thing. Some things are better left to an original design of the mechanical type, aka if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

Yeah I’ve seen some others with sticks. I’ve always liked the idea of a lever more than a knob. I figured more moving parts would cause more drag. Maybe a couple of mpg decrease, but I figure with 4.88 and bigger tires a few extra spinning parts are the least of my worries haha.

Nice. That’s good. I did the EGCS bushing when I did the new gears and locker

 

My ADD has been stuck in the locked position for about 5 months now. No noticeable decrease in mileage (I check mileage the old fashioned way).
35s and 4.88s kill it anyway.

 

That’s good to hear.
I wish they would have done this from factory like those others. I know lots of the older 4x4’s came this way and didn’t have issues. At the very least my buddy said those moving parts will stay in better shape. When they don’t get used often is when we end up having problems with them. His father has a Tacoma and he owns his own business so he gets to work on his fair share.

I completely agree with getting rid of any electronics you can. I’ve seen more problems than not with electronics, but I help out in my buddy’s shop so all I see are problems so I might be a little biased.

Anyways I had to take the add apart a couple years ago and re-solder connections because it stopped working altogether. It’s giving me fits again now with not going into 4wd so I started looking into this more. I figure the cold weather is the culprit.

 

Nice (unless you want it fixed). Well that’s good to hear and yes they do. That’s what I’m running at the moment. Thought about running 37s but the cons may outweigh the pros

 

Better stuck locked than unlocked. FJ tube mod is on my list

 

Has anyone used a stick 4Runner t case. I’m having trouble finding a cheap enough fj case with mileage I’m comfortable with.