Wyoming B.S. Thread

Whitelines are still the best option.

My cams are maxed, which is the main part of the problem. Was super close to pulling the trigger on some heimed uppers to help fix that, but haven't got there yet. I also like to go from full extension to full compression and back again very frequently, which I assume puts more wear on those.

 

Id love to solid mount the lowers and Heim uppers like Marcs truck. Fucker never has to change his alignment haha

One of the cool things that Camburgs LT kit has, uniball LCAs.

Yes it would be a performance increase.

Though something tells me ACdelco rubber bushings will not last as long as the OEM rubber.

You don't need a press, you can use the stock OEM jack to press them out quite well. Lots of documentation on people using it for that.

 

^^^ This. Ben - we had to use my OEM jack on one of MIke's LCA's. I'd say it worked better than the press. And we used a heat gun rather than a torch to heat everything up - just to be on the safe side (and preserve paint, etc.)

 

Na, more like just taking it's hat off. Pretty easy job.

 

Alignment, what's that?

 

Mine's actually been holding very well with the TC gussets. The steering wheel does change slighly every time I wheel, but the alignment's fine.

Just would like them to square up the lowers and still dial in an alignment. Would also create more clearance problems, and the 34s are already tight.

 

I think is you solid mounted the Solo lowers and used Heim uppers you'd solve all your problems at once.


sadly it cost a lot haha

 

I still see no point in the stock length lowers. The OEM units are fine.

At that point, I would go LT and get heimed uppers from the get go.

Wonder how much 3rd gen axles are going for with the new elocker..

 

I'm curious about this. What do you mean when you say your cams are maxed?

I recently put on some new SPC UCAs and so I have some camber adjustment in the UCA itself. Right now, I've got that top bolt "centered" in that slot, but I noticed that they did quite a bit of work to the lower cams (compared to "normal" when I had the OEM UCAs). Wondering if I want to cheat the UCA camber one way or the other to reduce stress on the lower cams.

 

Well in this case you'd have normal poly bushings that are easy to swap in and out..so theres that. And it has the lower mount moved 1'' forward so you'd have less rubbing and built in castor without a UCA adjustment.

Otherwise, yeah, its not worth it. But it would solve you bushings problem and rubbing problem id bet haha

3rd gen rear axles are only 1'' wider per side...why would you want that?

 

Back cam is all the way out, and front cam is all the way in. Give or take. This gets the most positive caster and the most clearance. Issue here being is the LCA is now sitting crooked in the mounts, and therefore, the two opposite corners of my bushings are tearing.

I would still probably do the same if tire clearance was a concern even with the SPCs. In fact, If I had SPCs, I would drop the added caster at the upper back to zero or only +1 for tire clearance reasons.

Because I thought they were wider than that, and the stronger electromagnet elocker 3rd sounds cool.

 

Ah. Far as I know they are the same width as the 2nd gens. Bigger diff though and yeah the harrop elocker is sweet. I might even swap the arbs to those.

 

It'll be tonight. I'll try to remember.

@m3bassman Ben, a frozen cam is going to stop you in your tracks and may mess with your plans. You cannot count on your local dealers to have them in stock when you need them. It may be worthwhile to get them to order you 4 complete sets (all 12 pieces) and just return the ones you don't need/use.

 

Id wait.

 

Thanks!

Wait till after, I'd say.

 

@turbodb @m3bassman

90080-11283 Bolt, W/Washer $10.16

$29 48452-35020

48452-35020 Plate, Toe Adjust $30.82
48409-35050 Cam Sub-Assy, Toe $20.38

*prices are in western wa. dollars

Ben, my suggestion is to wait. Too many unknowns...

 

As it should be.

Why? It's fun! Lol

 

It does not matter. You can throw those 'specs' out the window. They do not apply. Those toyota specs are for unmodified vehicles. Think about it, does either vehicle have the factory rake and ride height. When you go back to stock, then apply those.

 

Anybody have a link to a 2001 taco wiring diagram. The one I have is just part of an ECU pinout. Need something that shows the body harness pinouts next to the ECU. Only finding broken links.