DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

Great post. I almost tried to tackle this myself but instead went to the Toyota Dealership (Loving Toyota in Lufkin, TX) to see what they would do and the price. I ended up going with them. Mostly due to the fact that I’m getting old and to the point where I would rather pay someone instead. They did a tranny flush (~12 qts) using BG fluid (which I’ve heard good things about). Ended up costing about 160 bucks for the tranny flush and they had it done by that afternoon. They also changed fluid in both diff’s (lsd additive in rear diff), t-fer case, changed coolant, cleaned throttle body/injectors with BG, and changed the spark plugs. Truck runs like new.

 

It cost me about $80 to flush the fluid myself using Valvoine MaxLife Synthetic from WalMart, so honestly $160 isn't a bad price at all to include labor. Can't say I blame to you for taking that deal. I would suggest adding a quart of fluid and then doing a tranny fluid check just to make sure it is filled to the proper level. I am sure the dealer did a good job, but if you paid them to change your motor oil, I'm sure you'd still pull the dipstick to check it. Same principle applies for the tranny.

 

Just for accuracy of my information, I checked the receipt and it actually cost $194. That was $114 for the BG fluid (crazy), and $80 for the labor. Sorry about the misinformation!

 

You still got a great deal!

 

Looks like the sweet and sour sauce you get with s&s chicken

 

Just did this with my new to me 2012 TRD Double Cab with 78k on it. Never been done. Nothing had been done to it maintenance wise. So plugs, diffs, and tranny all done. My only concern was that I only got 2.25 quarts out when I drained the first time. The good news was that it was only slightly brown, no black. I'm guessing it was low from the factory. So now it's full and flushed with Maxlife. Process was easy, however the most difficult thing was getting the back bolts off on the front skid pan. Stupid welds broke on both nuts. I tried welding them back on, but my welding skills are terrible, and JB weld didn't work. So now they are zip tied temporarily until I figure something else out. Any ideas are welcomed... loving the truck so far.

 

how is this not a sticky?

 

So question about this process...I went through and changed everything out for the first time over the weekend on my 2011 DCSB TRD OR, including dropping the pan and changing out the filter. I did the flush, and actually ended up putting a little more fluid in than was drained, probably low from the factory. But when I put the truck into AT Temp check mode, I can get the light to illuminate for two seconds, then flash off, put the truck into park, light comes back on and stays on rather than turning off like the video suggests. I let it run for a while and eventually the light will start to flash like it's getting too hot to check so I shut it down and let it cool off. After it was cool again I went ahead started the process again, but since the light isn't turning off I just checked the temp of the pan with a heat gun and pulled the drain plug when that was roughly 100-105 F and let the excess come out then. Might be a hair low since I pulled it when it was a little cooler but has anyone run into the same issue with the light not turning off when going back into park?

Edit: grammar

 

In lieu of bare wire or Toyota SST, I found the following jumper wire is well made, affordable and more professional.

Diagnostic Port Jumper Wire for OBD equipped vehicles
http://absolute-wits-end.com/

 

I had difficulty getting my 2007 TRD Sport 4x4 to enter the AT Temp mode. Used jumper wire and followed directions explicitly. Never could get the AT light to come on after numerous tries. So I just idled the truck for 20 minutes or so in 65 degree weather and checked the fluid level again. Anybody thought of using an infrared temp gauge pointed at the transmission drain pan to check the temp? Not sure how accurate that would be but I wanna be sure I have the correct level of fluid in my truck.

 

How did this work for you? I am planning on doing this soon, and would like to use Amsoil ATF.

 

No way would i put anything other than a proper WS fluid into the trans. You are not flushing the trans this way, you are simply doing a full proper replacement of the fluid.

 

Great write up!
Does anyone have a link to a kit that has everything we need in one convenient location for a decent price, or a list of items that can be ordered easily and sent to the house?

Also, no write up I’ve read says anything about cleaning/changing the filter. Is that just not done? Seems the filter would have a limited service life as well.

 

I dropped the pan and replaced the filter when I did my flush. The filter is right around $20 so may as well change it if you’re doing a full flush.

 

This is a really excellent write-up. I appreciate your attention to detail and an excellent pictorial display of the work as you completed it.

 

Diagnostic Port Jumper Wire for OBD equipped vehicles
http://absolute-wits-end.com/


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The Wits-End gadget is designed for certain earlier OBD-1 Toyota's. Look at the prongs on this thing. They are WAY to big to fit any OBD-II port. I ordered one and sent it back. Go to his web site and look at the diagrams associated with this jumper. Has nothing to do with OBD-II ports.

 

Meh plenty use valvoline maxlife with no issues. Myself included. @gearcruncher doesn't think very highly of toyota ws fluid

 

I did go with WS when I did mine at 50k. However, as I get to 100k miles I will be doing this again, but will do a pan drop and filter change as well. More than likely I will go with Maxlife. I've used with great success in other Toyotas in the family. Zero issues.

WS is good fluid. But there's nothing special or magical about it

 

I have no issues with MaxLife ATF. I use it in the power steering also.

 

Yep. I do a suck and fill every oil change.