Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

Out of stock on Amazon.

 

Don’t think so

 

Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012B5EMG...olid=112OSIET65MKY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

Is that enough for all 4 doors?

 

Depending on how much you apply yes it should be. You won’t be able to cover the inner and outer door skins completely but that’s not necessary either; you only need about 25-30% coverage on each. I had enough to do all four doors and have enough left over to probably cover the rear cab wall too.

 

Ok...so while putting the door back on the handle fell off and so did the cables. I put the cable back green bottom other on top. But apparently I must’ve screwed up. Well now my door won’t open...lol lol

Anybody have any tips on re opening the door? So that I can re work the cables. Any help would be appreciated

 

Use the button or the key fob to unlock, then open from the outside handle

 

The effected door is the driver rear, the cable is not connected to the handle hence why the door doesn’t open. I’ve tried both door handles and lock and unlock.

 

Hmm.. that’s odd
The outside handle is independently connected to the latch so it “should” work even if the inside handle is disconnected. Same with the locking mechanism. If the truck is unlocked, it should open from outside. But I also know “should” and “does” are very different

 

Is there a way to take the panel ( or just inside handle assembly) off the truck from the inside?

 

Whenever I lock/unlock the vehicle, makes a weird noise like it’s stuck,maybe the lock cable is messed up as well

 

I feel like this right now.

 

Wow, that’s amazing. You should get commission on sales for Crutchfield. You just sold me on using them!!!

 

So I just bought my new ‘19 Taco TRD 4x4 in Cement color, digging the new color. Surprisingly, the dealer show-me-how-it-works guy sent me this thread. I had a ‘16 TRD 4x4 before and while I LOVED the truck, I was so underwhelmed with the stereo. My wife has a ‘19 Rav4 and her last RAV4 sounded better.

Back in the day (25 years ago) I was a circuit city auto installer, so I’m not afraid to get in there and get a little crazy. All that said, a small $250 audio upgrade after dropping 40K on my baby sounds like a good deal. However, while clarity is good, I still want to be able to turn it up all the way up and start worrying about my hearing

So, it doesn’t sound like the tweets and doors will give me that option, but adding another amp may give me the option? Just looking for any recent installs or audiophiles that can tell me if these speaker upgrades and maybe the amp upgrade is enough to get me back to my stupid grin days from the past?

Thanks!

David

 

I’ve only done the tweeters so far. Overall clarity and bass is better but not louder.

 

That would be accurate from my experience.

I did the tweets, doors, 4 channel amp (JLAudio), and a kicker hideaway powered sub.

The amp was added last. quality out of the doors without amp is considerably better, but with road noise and windows down, i didn't get the volume output from the factory HU alone. Had a shop install a JL MX280/4 amp do the doors and now it really sounds great AND loud. I'm cruising down the highway with the radio at 25volume most of them time to get what i was getting at 47/48 volume pre-amp.

 

Great stuff! My girlfriend is gonna love me lol. Compared to the OEM audio that is $1000+, I was able to install a JL W3 8inch woofer behind my back seats, with an alpine mrv-250 amp under my driver seat for around $400. When I purchase the kicker tweeters, the 6x9 speakers, and components speakers, I should spend a total of $600 dollars on my sound system.

 

Just ordered these kickers, I went with memphis audio tweeters, I'm in for 163 dollars. Will add sub and amp at a later date.

 

i am having a hard time finding it in this thread, but was there somewhere posted about a lower cost noico material for the doors?