Master Z's Pics, Words and Stuff - 2010 4.0L SR5 PreRunner

Hello Tacoma World!
The name is Paul, long time lurker, joined recently. I'm from Toledo, OH and just picked up a Taco in Oct 18'. I'm at that point in life where I was looking for a midlife crisis car(Nismo 370Z), but instead opted for the more sensible choice, a pickup truck. As a homeowner it's something I needed, the Z is more of a want. but, I'll get one soon enough...

I'm a long time Toyota fan, early on worked in the parts department at a Toyota dealership probably around 99' to 02' and actually convinced the owners to get a good supply of TRD parts on stock. At the time they had superchargers for everything from Camrys, Tacomas, Celicas, Matrix etc. we had brake pads, clutches, intakes, exhausts, shift kits, body kits, wheels and parts for MR2s and Supras in stock! It was a good time for the import scene. We even supplied some of the import tuners in town. At the time I had a turbo DSM that I played with and got to use our facilities and had all the help I needed from our mechanics. Didn't hurt that I got all my parts at wholesale cost. Good times.

Well, fast forward almost 20 years and I picked up my first Toyota a 2.4L 5 speed Corolla-Matrix S. Not a lot of aftermarket support but it shares the same engine as the Scion tC which has everything available to it. It did surprisingly have a lot of TRD parts you could add. But the cars claim to fame is it was one of the first Toyota ECU's to be flash tuned. I was part of Orange Virus Tuning's Phase 1 development for Toyota ECU's. And it Works flawlessly!
I've ran the tune for well over 4 years and can attest to OV Tuning's work. My car performs better in every aspect and has over 40WHP and TQ over stock. Along with daily driver duties it's also an avid SCCA autocross car and class champ 2 years in a row! Also the Toyota has been my most reliable car to date!

Check out my Matrix here: https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...corolla-s-wagon-oem-yeah-yeah-its-matrix.html

So it was only natural that I got a Tacoma. Great reviews, great resale value, bombproof reliability. Sold!
I was actually looking for an X-runner but it was hard to find the right one.
So I ended up with a 2010 Access Cab 4.0L SR5 Prerunner with a 5 speed auto.
It's pretty much all I wanted minus the 6 speed transmission, but it would mostly be doing hauling to and from my house and on road commuting. While a 4x4 would have been awesome, Being a "city slicker" and not really being into "wheelin' or "crawlin'" I guess I just cant justify the $5000 more I would need to get one. Either way I'm content with my purchase and it works fine for my needs.

Here she is when I got her. She was a little rough scratches here and there, but it's a work truck.

IMG_20180901_151935225_HDR by Paul Z, on Flickr

Seeing if it would fit in the garage.

IMG_20180901_151240631_HDR by Paul Z, on Flickr

After a bath.

IMG_20180904_111934474 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20180904_111949266 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20180904_112030850_HDR by Paul Z, on Flickr

They both fit!

IMG_20180904_110714733_HDR by Paul Z, on Flickr

So first things first. When I bought the truck I knew it needed a new battery and shocks/struts. I had a like new Interstate battery but the terminals were in the wrong position. I just lengthened the positive terminal to make it work. Problem solved.
For the Shocks and struts I looked around online and here on TW to see my options.
Not really wanting a lift I opted for some super low mileage TRD OR take off's I found on FB marketplace. These had less than 100 miles and it showed. PO installed a lift as soon as he got the truck home. So for the princely sum of $50 I got a set of nice late model dampers.

IMG_20180919_002836879[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Whenever I purchase a used vehicle, I usually go over it well and change all the fluids(oil, ATF, gear oil, rear diff, coolant, hydraulic fluids/steerings/brake), filters, plugs, belts, brake rotors and pads, etc. I just don't trust what people say they've done to the car regarding maintenance. Plus I use my preferred fluids/parts etc. This will all probably be documented here as I get to it.

Along with this truck being used for hauling, I am a firm believer in hauling ass.
Although this particular truck isn't and will not be set up for road handling, I will improve on the trucks overall performance. Power, stopping power and general drivers pleasure.
I know it is not the general consensus here at Tacoma World, you know... making power.
But rest assured I'll document my findings and post up Dyno sheets.

So that being said, here's one of the first modifications to my Taco.
URD TCAI.

IMG_20180918_223649788[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20180919_230527184 by Paul Z, on Flickr

To the OEM lovers, Toyota's engineering marvel of OEM intake technology!
Could be yours for $60. But it's probably going where it belongs. In the garbage. LOL

IMG_20180919_230456577[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20180919_230510946[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20180920_012602094[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20180920_012612582[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20180920_012636611[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20180920_014206897[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Install went well, took all of 1.5-2hrs due to having to cut some sheet metal and some of the engine cover, but pretty straight forward.
Do I feel any difference, is there more power, is it just noise, is it a waste and should I just use OEM???
Just be patient. I'm not done yet. LOL

More to come, stay tuned.

 

So, the Toyota owners site is pretty useful. I was able to see exactly which package and options the truck came with and service records. Looks like it had regular service and had the leaf springs replaced along with a reflash and the pedal chop. lol.
Saw there was an open recall so I took it to my dealer. When I purchased the truck I knew about the frame recall and actually thought it had been replaced because it looked pretty solid. It passed the inspection and Got the coating applied instead of frame replacement. There's a lot of negative reviews regarding the service, but I had no issue and they were quite thorough. They took a needle scaler to any surface rust then applied the black mayo. They masked the rails reasonably well with little overspray. But they did coat all the suspension parts. That kind of sucked because I had a suspension swap planned for when I got the truck back.
I was without my truck for about a week and a half. and they gave me this in it's place.

IMG_20180924_105307998_HDR by Paul Z, on Flickr

A 2018 DCSB SR5 4x4. What can I say about it? It was pretty cool because it's new and modern. I like the front end, I liked the modern interior, controls and the wheels. But that's about it. The interior felt smaller than my AC. maybe thats how the DC's are? loose a little space? The SB is worthless in my eyes. Sure its a 1 ft difference but it is what it is. And the biggest offence was the motor/drivetrain. What a dog! I understand the transmission is the culprit but damn! I noticed the difference in power delivery and to me it was drastic. That and the tranny was always hunting around for a gear when cruising. Super annoying.
That being said I was glad to have my truck back.
Now I'm not saying that 2nd gens are better than 3rd. I would love to have a third gen but it would have to be a manual and a long bed. Unfortunately, that combo doesn't seem to exist.

These would look good on my truck.
IMG_20180924_105316426_HDR by Paul Z, on Flickr

So here are the results of the recall.

IMG_20181002_113235772 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_113425919 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_113052661 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_113030418 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_113336198 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_113347425 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_113357391 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_113439881 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_113510264 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181002_123748600 by Paul Z, on Flickr

Then it was time for the suspension swap.
I didn't take too many photos because I was trying to get it done. It went well for the most part. Rears were super easy but the fronts proved a bit more challenging. The OEM sway bar links corroded and the allen key holes were useless. I had to bust out the cutting wheel and cut them off and order new ones. Went with Mevotech because they had flats instead of allen key holes, are serviceable/zerk fittings and they're relatively cheap. Other than that the Take offs work great and were a super cheap upgrade!

IMG_20180919_002836879[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Before

IMG_20181007_134931171 by Paul Z, on Flickr

After

IMG_20181007_142921495 by Paul Z, on Flickr

Some other Maintenance items I did that weekend was an oil change and replace the serpentine belt. I'm a Castrol man and used Castrol Edge synthetic 5W-30 and an OEM filter.

IMG_20181013_132925779 by Paul Z, on Flickr

That weekend I also had the last race of the SCCA season.
Got some pics of my Battle Wagon doing it's thing.

Potato pics.

Screenshot_20180930-160606[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Screenshot_20180930-160629[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

and the Money shot!

IMG_20181007_235348[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Screenshot_20181007-235518[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

And here's my Black Sand Pearl twinkies. LOL
Corolla-Matrix now in winter mode. Enkei RPF1's with Bridgeston RE71R's off and OEM wheels with Blizzacks on. Also my Seibon carbon fiber hood was swapped with the steel one. I'll take the rack off soon but still had some riding weather left in the year.

IMG_20181023_132319775_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181023_132513691_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181023_132355832_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr


More to come stay tuned!

 

Took a road trip to Cleveland to pick up a Avid Off-Road light bar at a price I couldn't pass up. Big thanks to member
RDKTRD for the notice and sweet deal.
I had plans on installing Aux lights and and was actually looking at Westin or N-FAB or RED Inc bars but really wanted Avid bars but the price was a deal killer. I guess I got lucky and didn't have settle!
Since I have no intentions of off-roading I need a street legal light that I can actually use. Having a rig with all brightest off road lights is cool but if you can't use them, not so much.
I'm pretty sure I'm going with some KC Slimlights in a Fog beam mounted inside of the Avid hoop. Perfect for using on road during inclement weather.

Install of the Avid bar was super easy. 4 nuts and its solid as F!

IMG_20181119_110009386_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181119_110031788_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181119_110116477_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181119_110134182_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181119_110147802_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr


Next up some maintenance and making the ol' girl growl.
Plugs were next in line for preventive maintenance. Got a great deal on some NGK iridium for $40 a set with a coupon from Advance auto parts. Only $10 more than the regular copper ones and I can run them longer? Totally worth it.
It's a good thing I changed the plugs because the PO installed some bullshit Autolites.
After the swap the idle was rock steady unlike the Autolites which would swing a couple hundred rpm.

Another thing I wanted to address is how quiet the stock exhaust is. That had to change ASAP. My goto exhaust has been Magnaflow for quite some time, and on this truck that's not going to change. The OEM pipes are a nice thick stainless already and they are in good shape. I was checking out the complete system and they use a 2.5" pipe from the Y to the muffler and a 3" pipe after to the tip. I could pick up that kit for around $460 from HottExhaust with their 25% off coupon. But I just didn't see the need on this humble build.
So i went with just a muffler and tip swap. Right around $150 delivered.

IMG_20181127_225721565[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Swapping plugs. Hard side first.

IMG_20181128_000536502[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Look what we have here. Not in this Toyota!

IMG_20181128_000615478[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181128_004755902[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181128_004706710[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Muffler install day!
Went with the Magnaflow 14226 which is a 2.5" in/out with a 5x8 oval body, 14" length muffler body and 20" overall length. The actual Magnaflow system uses an 18" muffler body and many here have run this and say its plenty loud. Since I had a smaller inside diameter pipe I figured using a smaller muffler will make it louder than using an 18".

IMG_20181127_230130295[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

The tip I chose is a 2.5" in and 3.5" out 10" double walled piece. Part number 35190.
Just for added bling in the back. The stock little flaired pipe didn't do it for me.

IMG_20181127_225740411[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181127_230412680[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Out with the old. I was trying to figure out what that extra piece is next to the muffler. It was from another customers car. lol

IMG_20181129_110353802[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181129_110405217[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181129_110414985[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181129_110427774[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181129_115636381[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181129_115642848[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181129_133016784_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181129_133025568_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181129_133041941_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

So initial thoughts?
I hope it gets louder. LOL
It's a nice deep sound and wakes up at WOT but still too quiet for me.
With headers and a y pipe I'm sure it will be plenty loud so it's a non issue at the moment. Plus I gotta let the muffler settle in. they sound different with a couple hundred miles on em'. I like the sound. I know going into it, it's not going to sound like a V8, and I'm not going for that at all. I'm going for the heavy breathing V6 sound. So far we're on track.

Got some lights coming in and I'll show you how and where I intend to use them.

So stay tuned!

 

Got a call from Discount tire telling me my wheels were in. Pulled the trigger on Black Friday on a set of Level 8 MK6's. Got 20% off an already pretty cheap wheel and I'm pretty jacked with the result. My OEM set were beat, curbed and what looks to be painted 3-4 different times by a 5 year old. They OEM wheels did not do this truck justice so they had to go. I almost had them refinished/powder coated, but breaking it down it was almost the cost of buying new wheels.

My local Toyota dealer hooks me up on parts. These TRD caps were $9 a pop!

IMG_20181207_122226120[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Making sure the caps fit.

IMG_20181207_182530951[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_182548352[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_182552672[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr


Just out the carwash. My hose at home froze in the garage. It still had a bit of water in the coils. Brought my own bucket and wash rags. Couldnt take pics with a filthy truck and shiny wheels. lol

IMG_20181208_172719977[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181209_120347715_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181209_120332605_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181209_120500313_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181209_120426495[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181209_120525568_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Got some of my lights sorted.
Roadshock LED 3" Spot lights.
I saw these guys at Harbor Freight and for the price ($19ea), I figured I'd give a pair a shot.
I was originally going to run them as reverse lights, but will go with a set that's a bit lower profile for that application.
The quality is there as far as Chinese made LED's go, I've seen alot worse and they have a warranty.
Also picked up a pair of ditch light hood brackets off Amazon for $39. Nice heavy duty coating worked perfectly.

IMG_20181207_220902394 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_224337896 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_224400107 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_235642585[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_234836372 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_234903877 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_235709504[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181207_234815061 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181208_012719412[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181208_012746881[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181208_012758149[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

For what its worth they work really well. Way brighter than my headlights and fogs combined. Not that I'll be driving on the road with them on. lol

Here are some shots at my shooting club.
Just about as offroad as this truck gets. (Totally being serious.)

IMG_20181209_131752103[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181209_132204360[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181209_131833341[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr



A couple more things showed up in the mail.
Supplies for my Rear diff drain and fill and my KC fog lights for the AVID bar.

IMG_20181207_225221295 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181210_104142625[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr


Stay tuned!

 

Nice start. Subd for future

 

Wrapped up a few projects I've been working on.
I finally installed the KC fog lights and got some OEM style switches for the dash.

IMG_20181212_001606679[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181212_001745743[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

Picked up the switches from CH4x4 and Tacoma beast. Both are amber but the color is a bit off. But they are way better than the toggle switches both wiring harnesses came with. I was especially pleased with how the fog light is shown hanging like in my application. I know, I'm such a dork...

IMG_20181218_112956890 by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181218_113035269[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20190101_135249098[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20190101_135214481[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr


IMG_20181213_004530161[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181213_194439.jpg by Paul Z, on Flickr

To hang the lights in this configuration There were a couple things I needed to do. First since its upside down, I had to rotate the lenses 180 degrees to keep the fog beam spread aimed in the right direction. Then I used 1" stainless steel spacers and hardware to hang the lights from the AVID light tabs to have them centered in the hoop.
While I'm pleased with the lights quality and know I have a 25 year warranty with KC, I can't help but to notice that the wiring harness isn't the greatest. At least when compared to the Harbor Freight RoadShock wire harness I used for my ditch lights. The HF harness is better! LOL it's a $19 harness vs the $45+ KC version. But it is what it is. They both installed easily and had more than enough length for a clean install.


IMG_20181214_004656249[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr


I used this diagram to aim the beams. Pretty good info.

Screenshot_20181214-010416.png by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181214_004720783_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr


IMG_20181214_111130504_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181214_111112691_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr

IMG_20181214_111104125_HDR[1] by Paul Z, on Flickr




More Taco stuff to come...

 

Got around to installing the first piece of my audio install.
My OEM head unit had been flaky since I bought the truck. Volume knob doesn't work tuning knob works occasionally, randomly changes modes etc. I knew going in, it was going to have to come out.
My system will ultimately consist of a set of components up front, an 8" sub, and 2 Amps (one 200W RMS per channel stereo amp and a 1000W RMS monoblock amp for the sub.)
For the head unit I went with a Kenwood Excelon DPX793BH.
The only things I wanted from a headunit was Bluetooth, High Voltage preouts 5v, HD radio, and CD. I'm not about to watch DVD's or need any higher dollar touch screens with Navi only to get it ripped off. Just keeping it simple.



Install was straight forward and pretty easy. Soldered the harness wires everything was plug and play including the steering wheel controls.















Everything worked first try as usual and the sound is a welcome improvement.
10x better than the factory unit even with the crappy OEM drivers.

More to come on the stereo build, but maintenance items are on deck.
Stoptech Street Brake pads, Rear Diff oil change with some Redline, and Possibly a BG ATF drain and fill.

 

Looking great! Really liking those wheels. Subbed to see more!

 

Some more audio upgrades installed and soon to be installed.
In my Corolla-Matrix S I tried out some Skar Audio products and I can easily say they are some well overbuilt products that are really affordable. I'm running a 1000W RMS DDX-12D2 sub and a 1000W LP1000.1D Amp with a secondary battery and the thing slaps hard and flexes panels.

This time around I figured Id go all Skar Audio for speakers.
I picked up a set of SPX-65C components and an 900W RMS 8" ZVX-8D2 and that will be powered by a 1200WRMS RP1200.D1.













Great attention to detail on the component set. The quality is there plain and simple.

Here's the little monster ass 8" sub. This thing is wicked, it's just about as heavy as my 12" lol







Here's some install pics of the components.
I'm running them off the head unit for now, but will be powering them off a dedicated amp(Diamond Audio D3 400.) as soon as I get all my power wires and big 3 upgrade squared away.





Made some brackets out of some material and hardware I had laying around.











Soldered in the connections and did away with a lot of the unused harnesses. Like I said I'm going to be running an amp to these so its temporary.

The sound is very detailed although I lost bass due to the smaller area but the head units 18W RMS is not even close to the the speakers 100W RMS draw. The Kenwood Excelon struggles to keep it together. but that will be sorted soon when the amps are hooked up.

Wires and Amps next and I'll trow in the sub shortly after.
Should be pretty kick ass.

On the trucks performance end, I stole a set of JBA Long tube headers on ebay for the princely sum of $149 shipped. Not bad considering they go for $400+ all day.
Should provide the ruckus I'm looking for.

Stay tuned!

,

 

I'm diggin it.
Could someone replicate that $149 header deal?
I'm asking for a friend

 

My headers arrived yesterday!
They are brand new in the box and everything that's supposed to come in the box is there, except for a couple bung plugs.
Should be fairly easy to source, along with some O2 extenders and thicker crush gaskets. I'm going the anti fouler route instead of the O2 sims first, as it worked well on my other car. If not I'll pony up for the sims.









Got a lot to do with maintenance, audio wiring and these. Just need nice weather on the weekend to make it happen.
Should be fun.

Stay tuned for more updates!

 

It's been a while since my last update but I'm plugging along with my list.

I finally got all the wiring I needed for the dual amp install including big 3 in 1/0ga. to dual 4ga.
Its all by Sky High Car Audio, nice cables, connectors and fuses. I used all Stinger in my other car and I can say that Sky High is definitely more heavy duty.







Big 3 install.






Running of the 1/0ga power wire.


So I had the initial idea of placing my highs and sub amps under the seats. Not enough clearance under the passenger side. Then I thought I'll place the sub amp in the cubby not being used behind the drivers seat. Then I'd have to make an amp rack and fish all the wires to it inside the cubby. Looking at it a little more I came up with the easiest solution.
My goal was to make sure everything was out of sight to not draw attention. With the jump seat down, the seat overhangs the storage area and has more than enough space to house the sub amp. from outside looking in you wont be able to notice anything to conspicuous.
(besides a large center console looking thing)












Pretty much where everything will be mounted and the sub in place.




Wiring up the components to the amp.
This proved to be a pain in my ass. I like clean installs and wires following existing paths through the doors etc. I had a bitch of a time fishing the wire through the boot of the door I accidentally snagged and broke 2 wires in the inside of the boot! FML!!!!
So this took around 2 hours to fix first by finding out what the wires did (door lock, kinda important). Then fixing it by finding the wires, where they broke soldering some extensions and reconnecting them. Believe me, I did not want to do that again. took my time on the second door and that one went smooth.



Tools of the trade AKA shit needed to make the install happen.


Just about buttoned it up, I'll post pics when it's complete. Still need to figure out a secondary battery position(Possibly the storage cubby). but I should have sound by this weekend. Just need to find time to do it.

Other things I need to find the time to do is the header install.
I finally have all the parts I need, just need time to do it.
I'll be swapping out the manifold studs for some ARP ones, got some longer AFR cables and some CEL eliminators. These worked on my 4 banger, can't see why it wont work on this application. If not I'll pony up for the URD simulators.









And speaking of time! I still have to work on my other car as well!
I wanted to do a couple of things before the start of the SCCA season, but I'm already 3 events in. Got a lightened crank pulley and a revised tune from Orange Virus Tuning sitting on my dresser for what seems to be an eternity. I gotta get on top of that.
Also as mentioned, I'll be grabbing an OV tune for the Tacoma as soon as I get the headers and y pipe bolted on. Dyno sheets are coming fellas, just need to find the time!



She cleans up real nice!







Back to my truck, a little flash was added, picked up a TRD knob when TRD had a 40% off sale.
Goes nice with my other TRD goodies and slipped on my covers to my KC lights. We're going back to the future!







More updates soon, stay tuned!

 

sub'd. Nice work all around. If you mentioned this I missed it....did the air intake net any tangible results?

 

Thanks for checking it out!

I'd say yes, but if you're going to do breathing mods do them all together so the results will be tangible.(who only does an intake???)
It's power is made mid to high end, but haven't had it on a dyno just yet.
I'll get the results after the headers and OV Tune, since there already are Dyno records of the intakes and headers. I'll get on it.