Droopy sun visors

'07 was slowing drooping more and more, and the clicking started and then it was 1/3 down always. I took it off and found if I c-clamped it just as the rod went in the visor it was better, so I attempted to drill a hole under the rod in the visor and bolt it together tight mimicking the c-clamp effect. No luck I hit some metal in there and my drill would not go through, but I used a big screw and it went in diagonal and tightened it right up! all tight no clicking..

photos: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...29&authkey=!ACQ8KyJ-cx5kipE&ithint=folder,JPG

 

Thanks
Doing it tomorrow morning

 

OK I’m desperate
little more info would be good.
Half to three-quarter inch away or half three-quarter towards the middle of the visor.
Has anyone else tried this

 

Bump on this thread. Anyone else try what toecutter said?

ToeCutter66 said: ↑
There is a metal bar that runs across the front top of the visor. If you grab it near the pivot and in the middle of the visor, and bend it up it will fix it. The metal bar inside, that is like a hinge pin, needs to be bent up towards the end. I should do a youtube video. Get two pairs of channel lock pliers. Grap the front edge of the visor near the outside, where the metal bar exits and attaches to the ceiling, take the other pair, grab the front of the visor 1/2 - 3/4 distance away from the other pliars, bend the metal bar inside the visor, it needs to be somewhat bowed or "U" shaped, it is this bend that causes the visor to stay in the up position.

 

Mine 2012 has just started doing the droopy visor :/ velcroed it to the roof for now. Anyone have pics of whats inside the visor??

 

Well I took the visor apart and mine is definitely not going back together like it did in the factory haha

Here is my visor from a 2012 TRD Off Road, to remove it from the truck its simply the 2 silver phillips screws in the top right corner.



Next take a SHARP razor blade and cut along the seem on the top of the visor starting where the post enters the visor.
I found it much more effective to make multiple light cuts to get a clean straight edge using the seam as a guide.


After the cut.
Be careful not to rip ff the white piece because if houses the power wires for the lighted mirror.


NOTE:
From my best guess the post is inserted as a final assembly step so in order fix the visor you must pull the post out of the visor before trying to split the visor halves. I didn't do this . When I split the halves I definitely finished breaking whatever was left of the hinge for the post.
The visor MUST be in the "up" position (the visor touching the roof) when the post is pulled because a tab used to turn the light on will be in the way otherwise.
Because I broke mine I cant attempt to pull off the post but its a tight fit and will probably be on VERY tight. The metal ring/spring is STIFF.



The post has a metal ring press fit onto it with a tab that extends downward. The post can still rotate in the ring but provides resistance as the visor is rotated. There is a flat spot on the post that catches a set of dimples stamped into the metal ring, this holds the visor to the roof.

The culprit of the popping was the broken piece in the red box. Mine is beyond repair due to the way I took it apart but if your hinges are intact some JB weld should do the trick!
and if the piece is destroyed, apply more JB weld!



Here is a pic of the entire visor dissembled for reference.
NOTE: both halves have a hinge for the post. You can not split the halves without removing the post.

The fabric can be sewn back together with a basic thread kit from the drug store or a piece of iron on fabric from a craft store.
Maybe some of the upholstery guys out there have a better method as I don't know much about the topic.

 

My driver side was just hanging. I took an L bracket, bent it and slid it on. It clamped the plastic internals together and has been working good for over a year now. Since the pic, I cut the fabric about 2 inches and put the clamp inside, then stitched it back.The other day my wife's Venza started sagging so yesterday afternoon I did the same to it.

 

Do you have pictures detailing the cut and fix. Sounds like a good idea.
Deafly want to do something

 

I'll take pics when I get off work.

 

Pics as promised. I am by no means a good seamstress, but good enough to stitch this.
This is how much it hangs down.

 

I had this same issue. Oddly enough, my driver and passenger side visors broke in the same week! Eight years old and the driver's side gets used 99.9% more than the passenger side, but they broke at the same time... Go figure.

Anyway, here's the problem and how to fix them without taking the visor apart. I did this about four months ago and haven't had an issue since:

Problem: The functionality of the visor is achieved by a metal clip. That clip is held in place by a cheap, molded plastic tab that is easily broken. See great internal pictures above from "N minus 1." I managed to lose my broken plastic tab before I decided to take pictures. I opened one visor to look at everything, then did the second visor without opening or pulling out the rod.

Repair: We're going to drill a hole through the visor and install a screw, nut, and washers to hold that metal tab in place.
I used 3/16" and 1/2" drill bits. Parts: M5x30mm screw, matching retaining nut, 2 M6 washers, and M7 washer, and an M7 lock washer (Order: Screw, M6 W, Visor, M7 W, M7 LW, M6 W, Nut). This was just random hardware I had on hand - Other variations will work. The screw needs to be narrow enough to go between the metal tabs. The washer against the tabs needs to be large enough to "bridge" the tabs.

1: Use a razor knife to cut the seam, as shown.


2: Pull the fabric back and locate the side with the dimples.


3: Mark the location to drill. Measure 1-3/16" from the edge of the dimples, and center your hole on the second row of dimples.


4: Start drilling! I recommend drilling a pilot hole halfway through with the 3/16" bit. Then use the 1/2" bit to drill down to the metal piece. Once you see the metal piece, switch back to the 3/16" bit to drill the rest of the way through, between the metal tabs. (The next picture is just to show where to drill. Don't open the visor - You'll be able to see the drilling location through your 1/2" hole.)


5: Install screw, nut, and washers. Ensure the visor is rotated to what will be the "Up" position (as shown below). Once secured, rotate the visor up and down to ensure it isn't too tight.
If I were buying parts specifically for this, I would've opted for a flat head, but once sewn up, it isn't noticeable unless you're feeling for it.)



6: Sew/Glue fabric (go ahead and laugh at my skills!). I recommend sewing the corner, where it was originally sewn. But just use a hot-glue gun on the top seam. This was my first one. I used hot glue on the other and it looks much better (though I apparently didn't get a picture). Since this seam is up against the roof, it doesn't really matter.


7: Install in your truck - They're nice and tight again!

 

I’m going to try this.
Thanks

 

Did it.
Turned out pretty good.
The hole placement is critical. Little off on the passenger side had to redrill but I got it good. Driver side tight against the ceiling

 

More photos

 

Are used two sided tape to bring the fabric back together

 

It works
Thanks guys

 

This worked perfectly for mine! Thanks for saving me the $100+ for replacements

 

Fantastic write up!! Thank you all, I will be doing this soon and posting pics.

 

Works for sure. Did it at the beginning of Rona. Flipped up and down daily. Holding strong.

 

Excellent! Looking forward to doing this myself.