Home Improvement Today?

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Last sub floor I put in I used my son's Elmer's. We have the quietest floors

 

We use to use Elmer’s to glue down our tack strip onto concrete floors when flooring, couldn’t believe how well that held.

 

Thanks y'all for your help.
Mucho appreciated-o

 

So, I'm building a box beam ceiling in my den. Can't come up with a solution of material to install inside the beams at the ceiling. T & G carsiding only comes in 5" & 8" widths (8" too wide, 5" too close to mimicking width of beams). Most bead board is 2" c-to-c of the beads, makes it too busy. Found some 3" c-to-c bead board, but the cutters used to cut the profiles must have been dull ........a decade ago. Painting will only magnify the roughness. V groove would work, but everything I've seen has too deep of groove (¼"+).
Variation between the trusses of up to ½", otherwise I'd just paint the drywall and be done. Adjusted the beams to level by how they're attached at the cleats. Will need to shim whatever material install between them so the trim doesn't follow variation caused by the trusses when nailed to beams. Thinking I'll install ½" ply to drywall (shim as needed) and final ceiling material to the ply. None of the spacing between beams is wider/longer than 4'x8', so a sheet product would work.





This is the look I'm going for. Wider than bead board, narrower than the width of the beams.

Ideas?

 

Can you just get a router bit and make it yourself?

 

Install mdf and paint it , bail on the beading

Bottom pic looks like 1x4 t&g v groove to me , but I'm on my phone

 

I'd just do a small piece of molding to hide the difference, then paint the drywall. Even if it just an inch tall or whatever you need to be able to nail it up. It'll be so small that 45 deg cuts will be fine and you shouldn't have to miter anything.
It'll look much cleaner.

 

Hmmmmm. Going to combine these two suggestions, run a test pattern and see how it looks. Like MDF for the sharp/clean profiles it takes from router. Hadn't thought of cutting MDF to size, routing v grooves. Can adjust grooves to any spacing/depth, eliminates problem of variation between boards/gaps and won't require a backer to support. Only concern is weight. 7/16ths would be nearly 40 lbs. for the largest panels, less whatever route away (nominal). Likely have to use some screws to support that much hanging weight.

The problem is the ½" truss height difference shows up in the ceiling drywall as a hump over a 6 to 8" span and not over the 24" centers. If molding is thin enough to follow hump, it'll be obvious. Could span the humps a foot or so either side, but end up with a wedge of caulk to fill the gaps that will be noticeable.
Not following your 45 degree cuts will be fine and no need to miter. I typically cope trim.

 

You could land 1/4" mdf base sheet shimmed to your final height and rip strips of 1/4" mdf at whatever width you want and rout whatever edge detail you want then apply strips with Titebond 3 and brads

 

I haven't had good luck working with ¼" MDF unless has a paper facing. Gets too noodley running much length, have to use a bucket full of spacers to keep it straight. Not an issue on a bench, little appeal working overhead.

Curious to your choice of Titebond 3, I've always used the original on everything wood/MDF unless exposed to elements. Am I missed something?

 

Higher strength , longer open time

 

If youre worried about weight, you could level it out by shimming some furring strips. Then use 1x stock for the boards. You can run a chamfer on or roundover bit across the edges to give it some depth

 

Ended up buying this guy, and after the PIA install, it works amazingly. No more pre-rinsing!
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Dry-Boo...eel-Common-24-Inch-Actual-23-75-in/1000522523

Also I just realized it had a hard food disposer! WIN

 

Hows the sound?

 

Damn near silent. and I don't have the extra sound proofing it comes with installed yet either.

Disclaimer though, with all the settings on it runs for ~5 hours....

 

blame the Government on that...

 

Efficiency crap?

 

It’s a marketing lie. There isn’t one.

 

Most just trap the food chunks in a container at the bottom. If you don't rinse your stuff, make sure to empty this container frequently or it'll back up.