The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

OP, have you seen this?

The HKB Electronics Alternator Voltage Booster https://www.hkbelect.com/products/toyota/

A solid state silicon diode, causing the regulator to see a voltage drop, which increases the charging voltage.

AGM Batteries typically require a slightly higher charging voltage. Odyssey, as an example, are great w/ 14.8V constant voltage (stay below 15v or risk venting). Your vehicle based electronics will, however, signal an over voltage condition. The Toyota alternators generally output 14.2-14.3V w/ no load.

EDIT: I just purchased one, but have not installed it yet.

 

Interesting. I have not seen that. Ive heard of hacks adding resisters to increase voltage but not something purpose built that is adjustable. I’m tempted to experiment with it, certainly cheaper than an alternator upgrade.

The overvoltage condition had occurred to me, though I’m not certain what the voltage threshold is throwing an error. I’d hope companies that built expensive high end vehicle specific alternators for AGMs would design the output voltage level to not trigger over-voltage errors. But being able to adjust the setting is nice, though in general I’m not a huge fan of add-ons that try an alter signals to OEM running gear. For the price it is worth the experiment. Since you ordered, did they give an expected delivery date?

 

I have received it. It took 2 or 3 weeks to get here.

I probably won't have time to get it installed for another 2 or 3 weeks. Not that it is difficult - but I want to have enough time to take plenty of voltage readings, before and after.

I will post up once I install it.

 

Yes, supporting voltage readings before and after are a definite must have.

 

Have You considered an Alternator upgrade & Electric Fan for low speed, high Temp. Wheelin'? I don't think capacity is that much of a problem.

 

Good point. I have done that setup on earlier trucks and it does work exceptionally well for that use case of high temp, high load, low speed off road. What I didn't like about it was the hair dryer fan noise the rest of the time in daily driving. Usually aftermarket ones come with a programmable temperature probe, which I question the reliability on, or you need to get creative for better OEM integration. I used a high performance aftermarket electric fan with a probe in the past. I know Roostfactor came up with a setup using I think a Thunderbird OEM electric fan and made a custom shroud and was able to integrate is much more seamlessly into the OEM setup. I do like the simplicity and reliability of mechanical fans and would rather not go through the effort of reengineering the system for something I experience 1-2x a year if I can avoid it.

 

Chemistry dictates that Lead-Acid batteries have a specific voltage per cell, I believe that resting voltage is approx 2.1 volts x 6 cells = approx 12.6v, but higher while charging.

14.4v-14.8v sounds more like a lithium battery, as they have a higher voltage per cell.

At the risk of sounding skeptical, I will be interested to learn how Northstar is overcoming the laws of chemistry... or my 4 semesters (decades ago) understanding of it to offer a higher voltage. Also, aren't charging voltages limited within a truck's system to a voltage under 14.8v?.

JL

 

I just want to say thank you! So much great information here.

 

While I have studied automotive extensively, I do not claim to be an electrical battery chemistry expert. Based on what I have found, Northstar offers unparalleled power density, well beyond others in the industry. You can read their high level pdf below explaining what makes them different. Technology refinement has likely changed significantly over decades.
https://www.northstarbattery.com/media.ashx/nsbautomotivebatteries.pdf

Specs on top of the battery, cycle service 14.4-14.8v. This is a Made in the USA top of the line high tech battery, for a top dollar premium, not some foreign made over promised part, meaning I am more likely to trust the specs.



Obviously there is an upper limit to charing voltage. I cannot imagine it is much if any higher than 14.8, though I do not know what the programmed limit is.

I'm just exploring possibilities here. Clearly the Northstar AGM offers opportunities for growth, I'm looking to exploit that maximum advantage while minimizing negative impact, as any kind of reduction in performance or error codes are not acceptable in my build.

 

I have the same battery. It’s a beast. I don’t have any scientific data but I swear my heater fan blows harder, dash lights are brighter and my headlights are pure fire.

 

Battery-agra!

 

All those things will be true when the vehicle is not running, as is easily noticable by the starter. When it is running you are on alternator power.

 

You guys can try all of the fancy unproven stuff you want. I'm sticking with my good old fashioned Flux Capacitor.

 

Silly poster, the flux capacitor is the engine, the power unit is a plutonium reactor, a Mr. Fusion Home Energy Reactor, or a bolt of lightning.

 

Those are hazardous for us supercharged guys, with the 88mph limit and all.

 

I have looked at this one also. $20 for shipping just kills me

 

I know.

The part was only $60...

 

Agree. I hate being screwed on shipping. Jeez just toss it in a little bubble wrap envelope for a $1.

 

Good news, the donated 2nd Gen headlight assemblies showed up today! One step closer to bench testing H4s. Special thanks to @jet123
Bad news, the power supplies I ordered are out of stock on back-order. The suggested alternative is a $100 upgrade to go from a 15v supply to a 30v, bumping cost from nearly $350 to nearly $450 for a higher voltage feature I do not need. Arg.

 

I assume the Australian government does not fund the international shipping costs like the Chinese government does...