Cudgels Build Thread

2017: Became TW Member: Suspension Mods + Off-road lighting
2018: Several convenience mods, safety equipment, electronics
2019: Wiring and lighting, roof rack and gear

Index of Posts:
Index: Top of Thread
Post 2 Summary Before/After
Post 3 Icon 8 Lift/Fender Flares
Post 4 Lighting
Post 5 Roll-bar Mounts/upTOPoverland Rack/Hi Lift Jack
Post 6 Electronics - Ham/Scanner/Cameras etc.
Post 7 Other Interior Mods
Post 8 Exhaust & Other Exterior Mods
Post 9 Under the Hood
Post 10 Retired Mods - Still some good mod information.

Post 11+ for your comments...


https://youtu.be/qT6m3rnUqgg

 

Summary of Changes:

Before: (2017)
Started with Factory Ordered 2017 Dual Cab Long Bed. (DCLB) OEM Chrome 5" factory step bars and TRD Pro skid plate. Misc options: Factory cross over roof rack, JBL, bed mat and bed divider.


(2018):



(2019):



(2020):

Mods:
Exterior:

• OEM Pro Grill
• Fuel Recoil 17” Wheels
• BFG TA KO2s 285/70s Tires
• ICON Stage 8 Suspension Lift
  
• RDJ Fender Flares (Textured)
• Front Light Bar: Revtek KT 20016 Light Bar
• Front Lights: KC HiLite 5"
• Front Raptor Lights (Navi)
• Front Modified Triple Hitch Receiver
• Bed Roll-bar
• upTOPoverland Alpha Roof Rack
• Lamphus 37" First Responder Light Bar
  
• KC HiLites G46 mounted on Roof Rack
• Bed Hi-Lift Jack: Mounted
• Bed Fire Extinguisher on quick release Drake Mount
  
• Roof upTOP Overland Alpha Rack
• Roof and Bed Mount Mag Antenna's (UHF and CB) - Moved to Retired Mods
  
• Roof rack mount power 2M/70cm antenna (Ham)
• Roof rack mounted emergency responder lighting
  
• Under Hood ARB compressor
• Under Hood Accessory Fuse/Relay Box
  
• Rear backup lights: (KC C3s)
• Rear The Big One! MegaShackel.

Other:

• ShiftSense Pro
• Magnaflow CAT back exhaust.
• Craftsman low profile cross over gear/tool box.

Interior:

• Icom 5100A 50Watt Dual Band Ham Radio/Power Tilt Antenna
• Auxiliary 7.5 Ah SLA battery with switched Renogy 20 A DC DC Charger
• Flush Dash Switches
• Leather Seat Covers: Black Leather Clazzio
• Uniden R3 Extreme Long Range Radar Laser Detector GPS
• Z-EDGE S3 Dual Dash Cam - Ultra HD 1440P Front & 1080P Rear
• Uniden Beartracker 885 CB/Scanner (Removed)
• Lamphus 125dB Siren and Emergency Lighting
  
• Front Camera (Parking) Front Camera Adapter
• Always on Rear seat console dual USB charging ports
• Secondary Auxiliary fuse/relay box
  
• SOG Tool
• MagLite Mount

 

Icon Lift, Wheels and Fender Flares: (2018)






Kit (ICON 8) components:
I also added the ToyTec DiffDrop, and Rear Shims and Bump Stops.



Fuel Recoil Wheels:


I also added the ToyTec DiffDrop, and Rear Shims and Bump Stops.

Overall Comments: My Taco truly drives much better after this lift, the handling and cornering on all surfaces from dry road to washer-board to large whoops and bumps is amazing. It corners like a sports car. With the 285s the steering does not feel sluggish and while I have not [yet] done a regearing, it feels like it doesn't downshift so much. Minor, and I mean minor, road noise change in the 20 MPH range, smooth as silk up to 90. (haven't gone higher). Speedo is off by about 5 at 75, 4 at 55, 3 at 40 etc.

Installation Issues:
Wheel Alignment was tricky...could not adjust to full camber settings per instructions due to rubbing on mud guards...eventually tweaked (cut) them some and will be replacing the Fender Flares with a one piece. I had installed the TRD Pro Skid Plate and decided to shim down the rear set by 3/8" inch to give the Pumpkin a little more clearance. Overall, I followed the directions very carefully, especially the slack in the rear reservoir lines around the (new) bump stops.

Coilover Heights:
I tweaked this a lot to get the rake I like...very personal question of course...I used "option two" for the rear replacement leaf pack and then adjusted the fronts to fix for the Taco Lean. Driver Front is 2.125", Passenger is 1.825" (currently).

Icon Issues:
Everything about product is fantastic...my set was backordered but I knew that going in...was missing one part they shipped out before the weather got nice enough to take the project on.

Other:
I worked with Bij at this was a very smart thing for me to do as I had a few questions regarding the brake line extensions and shims, as well as decisions regarding the diff drop...Bij was extremely knowledgeable, confirmed with his team and very responsive...I really felt like I had a "team of experts" front to back on this.


RDJ Fender Flares (Textured):
Good overall "middle of the road" product. The installation takes a good amount of time for a bolt on and elbow grease on both the weatherstripping (2 hours) and the mounts (1 hour) but overall is not overly technical. Need good lighting source and a helper would have been nice when pressing on truck. Overall fit was fine...the provided screws are completely useless, but the factory screws are fine. Primary reason I chose these was to increase wheel well clearance post lift where the mud flaps used to be, but once installed I also really like the look too.

 

LIGHTING:

• Front Light Bar: Revtek KT 20016 Light Bar Mount bolts to existing frame holes. Note, install instructions talk you through removing the front grill...completely unnecessary the bolts can be reached with box wrenches.
  • MOD: I moved the lights back from the bars light tabs and cut off the tabs as they looked stupid

​

• Front Lights: KC HiLite 5" Apollos - Mod: I drilled the bar and moved the lights back onto the bar itself (leaving the original tabs to protect the lights from morons - I'm looking for an appropriate way to dress them up). Light Patterns: Center pair are Spots, outer pair are Beams. Each pair is independently switched and controlled by high beam keeping it street legal. Beam coverage is similar to low beams area that gets switched out when highs cut out fogs. Spots fill in center of high coverage, including mid distance zone missed by roll-bar mount third tier penumbra diffracted by cab interference.

• Raptor Lights: - I went with a good quality LED just the right brightness and color. I spaced them slightly further apart and much more to the center of headlights/fogs to give it a balanced look. The installation was fairly simple, I used flat aluminum plate to make corner braces that hold the raptors against and behind the grill. These screw to the front upper air dam making for a simple yet effective mount that doesn't drill into sheet metal anywhere. For wiring, I spliced into the passenger side fog harness, vs. the marker light, as it was much easier to reach and I like the look of the fog+raptors. Shown in night view below.

• Roof Rack Lights: KC HiLites G46 mounted on upTOPOverland rack.
• First Responder Lights:
  Xprite Red 4 LED 4 Watt Emergency Vehicle Waterproof Surface Mount Deck Dash Grille Strobe Light Warning Police Light Head with Clear Lens - 8 Pack
  Xprite's Red/White LED

NOTE: These Xprite Marker Lights (Sku 52025-G2) are currently not working properly and I have a tech request/refund request processing. I do not suggest you will have the same problems but I'm not willing to promote this product.​

• 
• 

• Scene lights (Meso ScenePods):
  • I mounted rock lights and grooveTEKs after painting (red matches other parts). Very easy, cut out the cut outs in the Armor, set and drill a 9/32nds screw hole for the provided pan head screws and gently but firmly push screw in the grooveTEK in essence self tapping the Armor. I choose to pre-mount the rock-light in the housing but it makes no difference.
    
    For wiring, I wanted to be able to activate these scene lights [the Rock-lights in the GrooveTEKs] from the cargo lamp switch/door switches, so I tapped into the cargo light cable. You do not need to do the whole headliner removal, just the rear to need to gain access to the Cargo-Lamp cable.
    1. With a small panel removal tool or carefully with a small flat head, pop off the hanger hook lower cap, then pinch off the hook clip and remove the rear hanger hooks. This gives you enough headliner slack to access and locate the split tube conduit leading to the cargo light.
       
    2. Carefully trim the two tape mounts and release to expose.
    3. Tap the: Green (+)-Cargo-Lamp) and White/Purple (-), - ignore the Purple (+Brake) to drive your relay. I fished my lines down the driver's C-Pillar to my wiring junction (relay/power) connections that lead to the power side of the scene lights. More on that elsewhere in my build.
    

• Lamphus Solar Blast First Responder Light Bar
  • 
  • 
    • Lights and Siren Contollers mounted in console:

​

• Rear backup lights: (KC C3s) under the rear bumper switched with reverse. The bracket came with the C3s, the frame mount hole either existed or I used the stock bolt, I don't recall, but I did not have to drill or fab anything. To wire, I popped out one of the reverse light bulbs (as if changing the bulb), put a meter on the socked to find the (+) lead and then tapped it for the relay. After testing it all out I taped and tucked all the wires with tie-wraps/splice tape and split coil. These things take a beating behind the rear wheels so I went with high quality everything and mounted them closer to center. As "rear facing low angle headlights" they make backwards driving child's play in any conditions and I wipe them off every time I wipe off the backup camera.

​

​

 

ROLL-BAR Mounts, upTOPoverland Rack and HiLift Jack:

• Roll-bar: I designed (a 'sweet roll bar') to be mounted into the the factory OEM bed rail system with no drilling. I worked with Sterling Equipment to fabricate and ship, they did a fantastic job and offer other styles/customization. This was built to order so it takes time but totally worth it! Let Wade/Brenda know I sent you!
  
  The key mods I spec'd:
  • made it fit into the bed rail system so again no drilling to install this was a key goal as bed rail rust is hard to fix
  • only one center post between the two top rails so I could install my lights in any spread I liked
  • no side panels for a more open look
  • I had them carefully taper the bed rail mounting plates to match the tapered profile of the truck...notice how it follows the line of the bed rail evenly and has rounded corners and a front notch for more forward install
  • angles match cab, and it is slightly tall to give the lights better clearance but still look clean
  • you may want to provide the center of mounting hole distance from the top of your bed rail protectors to the center of bed rail system to align the mount holes or drill and paint them yourself

• upTOPoverland Alpha Rack...frankly my favorite mod:

​

• Hi-Lift Jack: Mounted on the rear roll-bar tube is a 42" Hi-lift all cast jack with add-on First Responder extrication kit base. Later than this pic, I wrapped bar with splice tape to protect finish more cleanly (pic has temp rubber) under u-bolts. Shown with locking wing nut (left) on Hi-lift's brackets and handle keeper. I will update once I finish fabricating a strap lock as well, as nut locks are pretty easily thwarted. This stuff is old time US made high quality.
• Tonka decal bling (Ebay) search for Tonka Jeep Decals.

 

ELECTRONICS:

1. Ham Radio
2. Siren and First Responder Lights.
   • Police Scanner (Moved to removed thread 10)
     
   • CB (Moved to removed thread 10)
3. Front Camera Mod
4. Dual Dash Cam
5. Radar Detector
6. Fuse Box Upgrades

Icom 5100A 2M/70cm Ham Radio with Power Antenna Tilt
Antenna:
I mounted the antenna retraction motor to the front of the passenger roof rail from the bed roll bar for two reasons:

• I can see the position of the antenna through the moon roof, so no guessing on if it is up or down as I can see it from the drivers seat!
• When modeling the ground plane for especially 2M, the more cab forward positioning (yes even when off center) gave better preference to vertical polarization, possibly from my assumptions of the plastic bed, and possibility from the forward mass ratios of pickups.

Motor Mount:


Antenna raised:


Antenna during retraction:


View through moon-roof:



Switch mod. The provided switch was ugly and powered by a power port adapter. I created my own reversing DPDT switch from a window switch and mounted it on the console box:





Control Head:
The Control Head is installed in the headliner in front of the head console and all the control wire fishes nicely all the way back to the transceiver. I left a few stress release loops. The bottom half of the headliner has a sheet metal backer which I installed two black sheet metal screws into, the top half I used machine screws with large vender washers...these all hold on the mag-mount plate for the control head to quick disconnect from:

Top View


Facing View
The head itself is mag-mounted to the plate attached to the headliner above.



The transceiver is mounted in the Whiskey bottle compartment behind driver side rear seat-back...there is pretty decent space and ventilation there. It also means the antenna cable is just the right length and since I'm attaching a remote speaker (Icom's OEM is Ok, but their accessory is excellent) I like the more permanent and hidden mount overall. Bonus is I now have a high amp. DC line running under the center console I can tap in the future.

Bracket:


Rough in before cable management:



Last step was to install and set up the isolation battery charger.
When the truck is running the charger is enabled, if the voltage in the secondary battery is low, the charger charges it. The batter is a typical UPS 7.5 Ah battery that fits neatly in the space behind the rear drivers side seat compartment on a Dual Cab.


Added a second auxiliary fuse/relay box. Four fuses and two relays gives room for expansion. Under the bracket is my auxiliary battery for my ham radio and an always-on power port in my console.

This also drives my siren/flashers and the scene lights I installed on the roof rack. Shown with completed the bracket and cable management.








Mic and Speaker Mounts:

• I decided to run the mic line up behind the stereo head and leave the actual connection hidden behind the cowl...this gives it a slight, but not too much, pinch in the durable straight part of the mic line at the panel joint indentation above the glove box shroud - it is just a perfect sized groove...and if it gets "yanked" it will give but it does not pull on the connector with normal use.
• It is all right handed, but the rider can get to it as needed for 3rd party traffic. The mic clip is 3M'd to the open spot on the dash...typically pretty good as these mics are pretty light...worst case it ends up in the cup holder.
• Some pics below of the shroud details and where I mounted the remote speaker to the seat frame (yes it moves)...audio quality coming from the foot well is phenomenal.

View from back seat driver and side: Head at top console, mic right of stick:



Cable details before I tucked it in behind the cowl:



Siren and First Responder Lights:
Installed my industrial grade siren/PA controller in the console today.


Serious aluminum screamer siren under the lower grill mounts up front as well.


See wiring in above section and exterior mods section.

Radar Detector:

• $297 Uniden R3 EXTREME LONG RANGE Laser/Radar Detector, Record Shattering Performance, Built-in GPS w/ Mute Memory, Voice Alerts, Red Light & Speed Camera Alerts, Multi-Color OLED Display , Black
  $400 Uniden R3 Extreme Long Range Radar Laser Detector GPS, 360 Degree, DSP, Voice Alert
  Uniden R3 Radar Detector with
  $33 Radar Mount Mirror Mount Bracket for Uniden Radar Detectors - DFR R1 R3 R4 R7 R8 Extreme (3001009)
  $36 Radar Mount Mirror Mount Radar Detector Bracket for Uniden (3001009)
  under mirror mount and 10"
  $47 MirrorTap MTX-1010, RJ-1110" Long Overall Length, Patented, Radar Detector Power Cord with 2 Amp in-Line Fuse, Military Grade Taps, Made in USA
  $45 MirrorTap MTX-1010, RJ-11, 10" Long, Radar Detector Power Cord With 2 Amp In-Line Fuse, Military Grade Taps, Made in USA
  mirror tap power.
• Fairly simple install of course since I splurged on the mount and the wire-taps. Wire Tap: Mirror harness is 3 wire, Brown is switched 12v(+), White is (-), Blue (not tapped) is always on (+). Wire tap comes with 2A fuse. If you need to ask how to do this you might want to stick to the typical power cords. In the kit, I used the .075 wire taps so if your looking to build your own harness to an RJ-11 try solid copper 16 Ga. hammered 50% flat for self made wire taps, you may be able to use hammered flat 14 Ga as there is good access to harness but that's a tough gauge to get in a RJ-11. I will fix the tape job in warmer weather.

Dual Dash Cams:$156 Z-EDGE S3 Dual Dash Cam - Ultra HD 1440P Front & 1080P Rear 150 Degree Wide Angle Dual Lens Car Camera, Front and Rear Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera with G-Sensor, WDR, 16GB Card Included

• Dash/Rear camera. Front and rear facing cameras. Mounted on modified GoPro clip. I frankly have not bothered to download the videos yet so can't speak too much to video quality other than on the small screen its pretty wide angle.
  
  Install:
  • My truck has the remote Go-Pro clip already, I modified an aftermarket Go-Pro clamp to fit the back of the new dash cam with glue and screws, but I'd bet the 3M tape would have held.
  • You have two wires to contend with, one is the power (usb), the other is the input from the rear facing camera. Both were easy to route through the headliner then the A-pillar shroud and (for rear) C-pillar shroud using the supplied plastic tool. There is gap the entire length, so you can hide everything.
  • The power cable I routed down the passenger A-pillar, under the glove box, under the console and into the a power port USB adapter in the console power port. The cable was just the perfect length for this.
  • The rear camera is mounted with 3M tape at the top of the back window just to the right (facing backwards) of the center slider window behind the driver side rear passenger headrest. Its cable was long, so I ditched the surplus into the open space behind the seats, behind the shell and out of the way even with the seats down.
  • The camera sets itself up with a few initial read the screen instructions and fooling around with settings like auto dim the screen and audio choices-not rocket science.

• Front Camera (Parking)
  Front Camera Adapter for Select 2014+ Toyota Models
  $175 Front Camera Adapter for Select 2014+ Toyota Models
  Wiring Harness &
  $27 iNewcow Car Front View Logo Embeded Camera for Toyota with CCD Waterproof IP67 Wide Degree (Middle)
  $30 iNewcow Car Front View Logo Embeded Camera For Toyota with CCD Waterproof IP67 Wide Degree (Middle)
  Camera.
  • Install was pretty easy with the harness and parts. Pop out the Stereo Head cowl by hand, remove the Head, attach the harness cheaters and wire up everything clean. Fished the camera lead through firewall grommet and mounted camera to grill. 30 minutes. The supplied switch does not fit my free switch opening...too small...finding an insert, then will post switch pic too.

A lot of requests for how to install this...some notes:
1) Buy the harness and camera.
2) Read the directions, in Chinese, and then throw them out.
3) Put all the stuff out on a bench and figure out the wiring.
4) Pull the Stereo Head: Easy vids on youtube, but basically you tease off the cowl and unbolt the Head.
5) Attach the two cables from the Harness Kit that fit into the two connectors/sockets in the back of the Head...only two that fit...male-female, same with other end of the harness to now free cables.
6) Attach all the switch wires, video cables and harness wires to the supplied adapter in the Harness Kit...it is actually labeled in English...and this is your guide to how the thing works in the first place.
7) Fish all the wires back/down behind the Head and reinstall the head (leave the cowl off until you test).
8) Find a spot for your switch and install...if you chose the spot I did, see above on how I removed that panel for my KCs switches, starting at top right with any panel removal tool.
9) Mount the camera up front with its supplied hardware.
10) Route the vid cable through the firewall (Grommet behind left foot) and make the power/video connections to the camera adapter cables (which is the only thing you have left, as it is in Chinese, so it's got to be the part).
11) Start the car and push the button - All good? Nice, bundle up all your wiring and cable tie it all up, tape and neatly everywhere. Not Good, trace it all and figure out the problems.
12) Reinstall the Head Cowl.
13) Pic it up and get the Likes!

 

OTHER INTERIOR:

• Flush Dash Switches: In dash
  MicTuning MIC-LSO1, 5 Pin, Off-Road Lights Rocker Switch, On-Off LED Light, 20A 12V, Blue
  $11 MicTuning MIC-LSO1, 5 Pin, Off-Road Lights Rocker Switch, On-Off LED Light, 20A 12V, Blue
  light switches back mounted on custom cut sheet metal plate attached from behind to factory screws on coin/key slot. Spot and Beams integrated to high beam, roof lights are direct wired to hot for anytime on capability. I chose toggles, vs. push buttons so I can tell their position without looking at them.

• Includes a dash indicator light for when I have my First Responder emergency lights on. Mostly a daytime precaution in case a switch is hit or left on to assure I shut them off in compliance with the law.

• SOG Tool Mount: driver side foot well
  SOG Fixed Blade Knives w/Sheath - SEAL Team Elite Survival Knife, Hunting Knife & MOLLE Tactical Knife w/Black TiNi 7" Blade & GRN Grip (SE37-N)
  $105 SOG Tactical Knife with Knife Sheath - “SEAL Team Elite” SE37-N Black TiNi 7” Fixed Blade Knife with Survival Knives MOLLE Sharp Knife Sheath + GRN Grip
  SOG "Auto Emergency Tool" on
  $10 Gun Holster Black Steel Spring Clip with Hole/Hardware IWB OWB for Kydex, Leather Holster Making Sheaths (2-Pack)
  $11 Gun Holster Black Steel Spring Clip With Hole/Hardware IWB OWB for Kydex, Leather Holster Making Sheaths (2-pack)
  Holster Mounts Clips.

Install notes:

1. Get holster clips.
2. Slip the hook side over the belt loops or other straps on your sheath...the SOG has a nice lengthwise strap on sheath giving plenty of options to slide on the clips, but you can improvise as needed.
3. Slip the other end over of the clips behind the foot panel at your left foot. This is the only "hard part" as there is not much room to get them started, but once you muscle them in it is tight.
4. Put the knife back in the sheath.

• Leather Seat Covers: Black Leather Clazzio seat covers with custom embroidery. They have the artwork already and were very communicative in the process. My dog loves these.

 

OTHER EXTERIOR:

Magnaflow Exhaust:
Easy to install, nice kit, great sound.
Muffler: Tucks up nicely in stock location:

Resonator: As a DCLB, you need a pipe or resonator...adds just the right amount of sound without being a civic wanabe:

Tip lies flush with body lines:


upTOPoverland Alpha Rack:

Cabling and wiring up top for four sets of lighting (See above "Lighting" post): (Pods/Off-road, ham and Emergency Flashers). Ham has loops to allow power antenna stress release of the coax. Two wiring runs on both sides all tie back to a 7 wire cable. The rack has built in wire management holes making this easy. Took three nights overall to mount, test, wire and bundle up the 19 fixtures involved.



Back haul all the cables internally down through my roll-bar and under rear seat to a wiring box I have there.


This rack is just fucking awesome! www.uptopoverland.com

• Full Size Spare (285/75/16) on stock steel rim, matches the 285/70/17s in diameter. Had to shift back the tire mount to accommodate the full size.

• Fire Extinguisher on BedRail T-nuts and quick release Drake Mount bracket and stainless Clamps.
• $15 DC Cargo V-Ring Tie-Down Anchors |4 Pack | 2" Diameter Steel Bolt-on D-Rings for Cargo on Trucks, Pickups, Trailers |Flush Mount Tie-Down Anchor, Replacement for D-Ring Tie-Down w/Plastic Pan Fitting
  $14 FOUR 2" Diameter Black Steel V-Ring BoltOn Trailer Cargo Tie-Down Anchor, Replacement for D-Ring Plastic Flush Mount Pan Fitting Tiedown | For Trailers, Trucks and Warehouses
  BedRail D-Rings under various bolts in bed to provide out of the way tie offs.

• Craftsman lightweight crossover box with jack, halligan and other tools in side. Not bad quality for the price...available at Lowes!

​

• Front Triple Hitch Receivers: I welded two additional hitch receivers to an aftermarket
  $214 CURT 31075 2" Front Receiver Hitch, Select Toyota Tacoma
  $144 CURT 31075 Front Mount Hitch

• Curt receiver frame and installed two multi-point shackles, and of course a hitch cover. Main purpose of front receiver is for detachable winches.

The Big One! MEGA SHACKLE BRACKET (steel) with 1" "Patriot Red" MEGA D-shackle (OFF-ROAD RECOVERY)
Mega Shackle​

 

UNDER THE HOOD:

• ARB compressor install:
  • Built my own bracket.
    • 
  • Wired switch next to unit, since you’re there anyway to use the pump and this saves precious dash switch mounts.
  • High quality stuff, even the single pumps like crazy.

TPMS experience:

• Got aftermarket ORO-TEK TPMS sensors installed when I ordered new wheels/tires online with a reputable site. Fine print on Invoice even said "Guaranteed compatibility with 2017 Tacoma" <- it pays to read fine print.
• After mounting wheels on Truck, the tire pressure idiot light and the dash pressure gauges did not reflect anything (light blinked for 1 minute and then stayed on, pressure on all 4 tires showed "---").
• Did the useless Toyota reset button dance for the fun of it.
• Using my Autel tools I did the relearn procedure...did not work...did the reset and unlock...did not work, I did see it uploaded the Hex values to the ECU but the ECU and the TPMS were not talking to each other. Looked to me like compatibility issue as my Autel could see the ECU and the TPMS but they could not talk to each other.
• Reviewed ORO-TEKs documentation on the TPMS sensors (which was not easy as they are a knock-off of a knock-off China company), but I eventually found a fact sheet which showed ORO-TEKs compatability for Sienna/Sequoia and Tundra but Not Tacoma.
• Called site I got the wheel package and they called ORO-TEK who confirmed the sensors were not going to work, nor does ORO-TEK have any yet that will.

SideBar: The most likely cause of the incompatibility is that the GEN III Tacomas expect a 7 character HEX value for the sensors and the current aftermarkets are mostly just 6 character. This I read on some other sites and I confirmed I do have 7 character TPMS senors installed with my read tool.

• The site that sold me the wrong stuff stated only a Dealer had the proper sensors but they would refund the cost, shipping and labor to reinstall.
• Got job done at local dealer, no problems, works well and fresh batteries.

Lessons learned:

• New Trucks with New Technology likely should start at the Dealer.
• Forums have lots and lots of idiots who have absolutely no idea what they are talking about.
• Expensive trucks cost more to maintain as full retail for sensors will be $94 each next time around.
• It pays to have good tools.

Under Hood/carriage wiring:

• Replaced the OEM battery terminals with InsallGear 2/4/8/10 AWG to support more connection options.
• I installed a water proof wiring box on top of the main fuse-box (you can still remove fuse box cover). Inside is a (+) bridge/buss, fuses and relays for all the accessories as well as all non terminal connections in one place.
• I installed two wiring chases, one through the main harness grommet in the firewall, the other is down the compartment onto the driver side frame to fish all new wiring, roughly parallel to the brake lines. The external run is flex tube PVC with heat shielding wrap, the internal is flex tube.
• Everything has shielding, tape and vibration connections.

Under Hood Fuse Box:
Started with my "temporary junction box" (2 1/2 years temporary!) I have two other wiring locations inside the cab, but this is for my front bumper KC's, overhead Off-road lights, back up lights and front camera connections:



5 Circuits and 6 fuses with 3 relays. I found a decent enough build it yourself small box:

$22 True Mods 12V DC Auto Waterproof Fuse 5-Pin Relay Box Block [6 Bosch Style Relay Holder] [6 ATC/ATO Fusible Holder] Universal Relay Block Box for Automotive Vehicles Cars Marine Boat Light Equipment

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MR64XK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1




Untangled the mess from the existing junction box, and soldered up all the connections. Tested it and it all works...good thing I have a meter!



Made final feed connections, then wrapped, bundled and built a small bracket for mounting the new Relay/Fuse Box:
Open:

Closed:

Note I didn't take any WiP pics as wiring is a skill you either know or don't and is very individualize as to how people route...I'm pretty obsessed with making it neat/labeled and traceable, others just slap it in a pray.​

 

Mods that have been removed or redone but for which you might be interested in how to do them:

Removed Electronics:

$319 BearTracker 885 Hybrid CB Radio/Digital Scanner with BearTracker Warning System
Uniden Beartracker 885 mounted in center console box.

• Combo CB/Scanner.
• 25 watt amplified
  Uniden (BC23A) Bearcat 15-Watt Amplified External Communications Speaker. Durable Rugged Design, Perfect for Amplifying Uniden Scanners, CB Radios, and Other Communications Receivers. , Black
  $33 Uniden (BC23A) Bearcat 15-Watt Amplified External Communications Speaker. Durable Rugged Design, Perfect for Amplifying Uniden Scanners, CB Radios, and Other Communications Receivers.
  external speaker hidden mount under drivers seat such that volume control is accessible when console lid is shut.
• Two antennas:
  • The CB antenna is the Cobra HG A1000 mag mount which specs out in the 26-30 MHz range (should cover the 26.965-27.405). I eventually realized I use the CB 95% of the time to roast my brothers and buddies on the trail to get the heck out of my way!
• The Scanner antenna is a TRAM 1094 - that specs out to ranges: 30mhz-50mhz/144mhz-174mhz/430mhz-520mhz/800mhz-950mhz - nearly identical to the scanner.
• All wiring is routed and hidden under all the console panels. I took all the console apart and scoped out the optimal location below (at unit back) so the wiring isn’t kinked etc.
• Still leaves plenty of room for a J-Frame or general stash in the console.

Boxed up: (Normal operations)


Box open: (Access controls etc.)


Mic accessible:


Ext. amplified speaker with volume easily reached tactically. Note: shown with seat all the way back. Virtually invisible when seat is in normal position.


Cobra CB antenna - mostly for trail use so 3-4 mile range of 1/4 wave is all I care about.


Check out the SWR reading: 1.00 on the nose!

Scanner is very cool, it follows GPS so scans local frequencies and alerts when airwave traffic is nearby. Lots of simple buttons, easy to operate without looking. Solid Uniden scanner. Some higher end features (named frequencies e.g.) are given up for auto features, very fair trade off as I don’t actually look at the unit to use it. I’m researching how to hack the frequencies list to make my own favs, shouldn’t be too hard as the upload software is dot net based.
CB is, well a CB. One cool feature is you can have CB in scan mode if desired. Good squelch and RF gain. I set the lcds to blue to match the dash motifs.
Overall I’m very pleased with the unit’s performance.​

 

Wow, fantastic write up and pics! I am thinking about mounting a switch panel on the same spot in the headliner, is the Feniex 4200, my only concern was the weight eventually pulling down on the headliner. How much does the head unit for your Icom weigh? and how did you mount it up there?

 

Thanks! Not sure on the spec of weight. Likely online but it feels about 1/2 lb. The headliner is backed partly by a sheet metal brace at that point so the bottom 1/2 of my bracket screws into metal. The top screws I used large fender washers to distribute the load. Solid as if needs to be. If you have a sunroof just open it and look down.

 

You've done all kinds of interesting, useful and unique mods. Much to learn here. But (just my $0.02) those step rails are giving me cancer.

 

yup...sliders are in my future...for now these are they...they tend rust out in about 5-7 years...at the time I got a good deal so I'll use them as is...never an end to the mods we can do!

 

Got it! Wish I had your wiring skills.

 

I like your use of fuse panel. One thing I like about blue seas panels is they bus everything to one negative and one positive connector to battery and ground. How did you wire everything without running multiple wires to battery (aka clutter) or did you?

 

sub'd so I can steal, borrow and copy electronics ideas

 

I have two questions if you would be kind and have the time to answer.
1. How happy have you been with the roof rack mounted power tilt HAM antenna solution?
2. How are you routing cables from inside the cab to the roof rack?

Thank you!