I need new brakes

I've got some pretty bad steering wheel shake and have needed new brakes for quite a while now..

Looking for advice on what to order. Was thinking regular OEM rotors and TRD pads. Thoughts?

Got my brakes done less than a year ago at a tire.shop. They did a shit job. Time to do it myself.

 

OEM rotors and TRD pads is a fine route to go. Take a look at this thread which covers lots of braking info. Doesn’t mean you need the StopTech rotors, but is a good general overview.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brake-upgrade-stoptech-rotors-trd-performance-pads.523829/

 

I did read that. Very detailed man. I saw your name and knew I was in for a good informative read.

Even in that thread people are buying drilled rotors, which is losing surface area.... I'm like, didn't they read the OP? Lol

Being in Vegas the 118° summer days on top of regular heat mean rotors take a beating. Maybe it will be worth it to buy the StopTech.. the ones linked to said they didn't fit my 2011, and the other place I clicked on didn't have both L/R until mid April, or later. I've also never heard of stoptech, but it sounds like others have.

@crashnburn80 I had pads replaced at Tire works, squeeling never went away. Went back later and they said 1 rotor was bad, the other was "ok" but to replace them both....I replaced both rotors exactly 11 months ago.. Now, they still squeal more often than not, and I have really really bad shake when I brake that's getting worse. That's on new pads n rotors. Ideas ?

Either way, they did a shit job

 

OEM OP, K.I.S.S

 

StopTech is a major name brand in quality performance brakes, they are typically pitted head to head against Brembo. For your Vegas heat you wouldn't have to use the Cryo option to get the thermal capacity and cooling gains. They will fit your truck, the rotors are the same for 6lug 2011 and 2015. Search by the part numbers 126.44129CSR and 126.44129CSR (part numbers for slotted Cryo), you can plug these into Amazon and their vehicle fitment check will confirm they fit.

Re drilled rotors, yeah... not everyone has the same learning curve.

Regarding your braking issues there are a couple things.
1) They changed pads, then later rotors. How long did the new pads ride on the old rotors? What this will do is imprint the old rotor wear pattern onto the new pads. Then when you change the rotors you imprint that pattern from the pads back onto the new rotors. If changing rotors, you should change the pads at the same time to they can bed in properly together.
2) Squeeling can often be caused by brake shims, or lack thereof. Quality pads will usually come with new shims, cheaper ones may not. If they took the old shims out and did not replace them that can cause an issue.
3) Shaking when braking is typically caused by the pads putting deposits on the rotor or rotor warping which is less common. This can happen from when the pads and rotors are very hot typically from a high speed stop, and you leave the hot pad clamped on the hot rotor in single position for an extended period. This causes uneven cooling and can imprint the pad material on the rotor causing the rotor surface to be uneven. To fix this, the rotors need to be resurfaced. Resurfacing rotors obviously removes material, which is counter to wanting more material for thermal capacity. There are OEM specs on how much material can be removed measured in width before the rotor is to be discarded.

 

Will be going with the recommended setup @crashnburn80 has in his thread later this year along with stainless steel lines and complete fluid flush. Thank the youtube influencers who recommend garbage like tacomabeast's brake kit with no name cross drilled rotors and no name pads.

 

Longer stainless braided lines are on my list as well. I’ll update that thread with the info once I get around to it.

 

Oh ok so I could go with the StopTech that are a little cheaper, as I don't need the Cryo? I'll look those up next. Are the part numbers you just listed for the Cryo ones, or regular?

As for the shop I went to... Yes they changed the pads, then later I came back and changed the rotors. According to the receipt (and the guy at the counter) I paid for new rotors (which was actually $190 total, for two) and they replaced the pads under warranty, OEM ceramic... I specifically mentioned to him that the pads would wear funny cuz the rotors, so they said they gave me new ones under warranty.

So, according to them in March of 2018 I got new OEM rotors and Ceramic pads... yet they've always been a little funky, sqeak at times, and have crazy steering wheel shake. Crazy shaking. Almost unsafe how bad my hand shakes when I'm braking from over 45 mph. I'm wondering if I should go back and see wtf they actually did... although I don't really wanna go back to that place, to be honest.

 

I'm really, really doubting that you got OEM rotors from a shop like that. More often than not, they're just using cheap Chinese "white box" rotors and charging you for OEM. Go with crashnburn80's setup or all OEM and you'll be just fine.

BTW, even if they did use OEM rotors, they over charged you. Olathe Toyota Parts Center lists them for $82.33 each but will sell them to you for just $61.75 each.

 

Factory brakes and rotors/drums are the best.

 

Cryo just makes them harder, wear longer and less prone to actual rotor warp (not pad transfer 'warp'). It does not help stopping performance. StopTechs part numbers are formatted so the numeric values are the brake rotors make/model/fit, the letters are the options.

Example: 126.44129CSR
126.44129 = Toyota Tacoma 05-15 6-lug
C = Cryo
S = Slotted
R = Right side

Rather than go to an unreliable shop where you do not have confidence in the people working on your vehicle, I would just DIY it if you can. Scrap the pads and rotors and start over. If you are on a budget, take the rotors to an autoparts store to have them resurfaced and reuse them with brand new pads installed at the same time. Use OEM pads or the OEM TRD pads. Be sure to install the shims. (TRD pads have built in shims and do not use a standalone one like the OEM pads). However, note the TRD pads require extra attention for break in.

 

Yeah. You are probably right. Is there any way to check? And what is Olathe Toyota center? Can I order from them?

Also, what about the rear? That shop said they were fine.. so idk

 

It is a Toyota dealer that has great online prices. You are buying OEM parts directly from the dealer at discounted rates.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com

 

If ur easy on the pedals and afraid of dust, oem.

I glazed a set of those once, and 2 sets of brembo blanks and hawk pads.

Since then, EBC stage 5 have been flawless.
Add in abs killswitch and braided lines and the truck stops much better.

 

How I loath ABS in braking. Though I appreciate it in traction control/stability control and ATRAC.

 

I might too
06.... No nannies to be had other than the rabid epileptic squirrel swinging two sledge hammers at the brake pedal when you try to stop (with abs engaged).

 

If you understand how ABS works, it is dumbing down the braking performance for the least competent driver. If you are a competent driver, you are still held back to the level of those that are not.

As a simple example lets walk through a quick scenario: Panic stop and front tires are near lockup, passenger side tire hits a wet patch and skids. What should the vehicle do?
A) Continue braking on both front tires even though the passenger side is skidding the traction of the driver side will minimize stopping distance, this may result in the vehicle pulling to the side with traction during the panic stop. If you are not aware and lock up both front tires you will lose steering response.
B) Turn off the front brakes extending stopping distance so that the vehicle does not pull to the side with traction even though that traction means stopping sooner. Rapidly pulse the brakes to determine when the traction issues have been resolved and avoid locking the tires so steering is maintained even though braking effectiveness is significantly reduced, extending stopping distance.

The vehicle chooses B.

As a broad generalization that is the statistically safer bet. The driver does not need skill to manage the situation.

 

Oh wow they do have good prices. So $200 out the door. Rotors L/R come up the same in the cart. And do I only need to order one set of Pads.. that's TRD Pad(s) like this.

 

Yep. The rotors cooling is not directional, so one rotor works for both sides. StopTech's rotors are directional due to slotting, meaning you need a right and left rotor. With OEM blank rotors, it does not matter.

 

Cool cool thanks for your help. Ouch $47 shipping.

I'll be ordering these in the morning. Doubt anywhere will be cheaper than that.