Florida B.S. Thread

JK or JL? (or whatever the newest generation is called, lol.)

 

Oh, not sure. Most likely you're right. I may have named my son CJ, but I'm no Jeep expert.

 

I was impressed with how his bone stock Jeep performed. Aired down with a good driver would have been even more impressive.

 

I reccomend some rocker protection and a good CB. Then for him to wheel it for awhile to see if that's what he wants to do. If he really wants to use it offroad and be happy or if he just wants to look cool are two different paths and one is much less $$$ than the other.

 

True dat. Speaking of, in your case, I'd see if a new mic would help with your CB issues. The antenna has an awesome set of SWRs so you should be getting out really good...other than it's not really mounted in a good spot. Need to have at least half (3/4s, really they recommend) of the antenna above the roof. I recommend going old skool with an ball mount on the driver's side of the truck like I did with Natty. If that doesn't work, go with a new Uniden 68. it's a little bigger than what you have but it's more fully featured with RF Gain and Mic Gain (or DynaMic and Cobra calls it).

https://www.rightchannelradios.com/collections/uniden-cb-radios/products/uniden-pc-68ltd

Oh, and as soon as I got home, I ordered one of those tire deflators, haha. I'm gonna need something like that with 35s. They'll take forever to air down the old fashioned way.

 

Ha, I was looking at CB mods after I got home. Looks like I need a good CB man to turn up the power a little. If that doesn't work I'll explore other radio options.

That ARB deflator really does work good.

 

I don't think power is your problem. It's either the mic is not working all that well, or the radio. I would say before you get a radio modified, you need to get a solid platform to modify. That means a Cobra 25LTD Classic or the Uniden 68 (basically the same radio although I think Cobra is going under so the Uniden is probably higher quality at this point).

I may get one myself at some point if I can't find a CB shop to check my old Cobra 25.

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I didn't get the ARB one. I got a look-a-like that was $10 cheaper or so.

Edit: I have to say I was pleased with my new antenna setup today. It wasn't beating the crap out of the paint and it seemed to stay pretty straight without hitting too many low hanging limbs.

 

The New ones are JLs, this one is a JKU (because it's a 4 door, U for Unlimited), 2 doors are JKs. I only know so much, because we get these Unreliable POS's in on trade all the time lol. Took 2 in today as a matter of fact

 

Is this the one y'all ( @Taco No Baka @GuyHuey ) are talkin bout? It's what I use and love it

 

Yall should see these things that Anthony had up on the recent trip to Kentucky. I love my ARB deflator but those things are sweet

EZdeflator Tire Deflator Kit Universal Adjustable, 4 Piece

$17 Tire Deflator Kit Universal Adjustable Pack of 4 Automatic for Cars, Trucks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011DF61YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BCdOCb32A1J5X

 

Yup, that's the one, but I got this one instead...

I've heard those types in general are hard to keep calibrated, but yeah, they do seem like the easiest way to get it done.

 

How can you tell it's a JKU and not a JLU? It was my understanding this one was brand new. Guess it could have been just new to Guy's neighbor though.

I can't wait to see how bad Ford effs up the new Bronco next year.

 

I never did ask if it was brand new or just new to him. I would be surprised if it wasn't brand new though. Not a mark on it, until yesterday!

 

The fastest and easiest way to tell is the JK/JKU's have different front grills than the New JL/JLU's. The New JL's have the headlights protruding into the last grill slot (retro from earlier years) vs the JK's have a small gap between the headlights and the last grill slot. The other easy way is the license plate location. JK's are below the taillight, JL's are in the bumper.

So, it's not a Brand New one, but maybe it's "New to Him"?

 

Funniest thing from yesterday and I’m paraphrasing a conversation that my wife repeated to me, I didn’t actually hear it.


I’ve been having an intermittent issue with the 4R. Overtime the rotor will carbon score and cause a miss. Normally I can just pop the cap off and clean anything on the contacts or rotor with my knife and it’s good to go. Well yesterday when we were almost done in the woods I had to do that, but it didn’t help.


My neighbor with the Jeep is talking to Lee, and he says “If we have to at least I can tow him out”.


Lee reply’s without changing tone or a smile “ I think he would rather poke his eye out with a stick”.



Thankfully the Old Runner didn’t let me down and made it home under its own power.

 

I'm literally..........

 

We actually took 3 Jeeps in on trade yesterday, 2 Wranglers (1 isn't physically here yet) and this other whatever it is? Cherokee I think? It's really a FIAT though. FIAT = Fix It Again Tony.

 

Someone left their hitch on the green one.

 

Happens all the time, I got tired of taking them home, I have a collection of them, as well as shackles lol

 

Not sure when I'll be able to do this. So I'm just bench racing and if I missed any parts or you guys know of a cheaper, better souce let me know.

I originally considered doing a 3rz and swapping in a 5 speed. But, I think I've changed my mind. For me I find the automatic to be the best for off-roading, nothing againt sticks, my daily is a 5-speed. It looks like it's pretty easy to do a 3.4 with an automatic and have great trasfercase options with an adaptor from Marlin.

Here's the parts list and some preliminary costs.

Parts Needed Cost Notes
ORS Harness $725.00 This allows a 3.4 from a 95-2000 vehichle into a 22re 4Runner
Marlin Crawler T-case adaptor $399.00 This allows a gear driven tranfer case to be used with the late model automatic in 1st gen 4Ruuner
Oil pan $334.00 Complete Rear-Sump Oil Pan Conversion Kit, 3.4L. From ORS
Cross over exhaust ? Cut and use stock one
Motor mount bracket, ORS $75.00 3.4L Conversion 4Cyl. Frame Bracket Set, Uses OEM motor mounts
OEM motor mounts $200.00 From OEM parts online or from donor vehicle
Used Gear driven transfercase $200.00 RF1a
Motor, ECU and transmission $1,500.00 Ideally I would find a donor with a bad frame for cheap and could part out other useful stuff
OEM timing belt and water pump $369.85
Total $3,802.85