Official Tennessee Thread

I'll let you be the guinea pig of that

 

Hey @allmotorrex you do electrical stuff right? ( or anyone els in here) what’s a good brand/modle(or not good) of multimeter? Not looking to spend a lot of money but want something reasonable, Dad had one but we tried using it last week and it won’t work. I’m thinking about getting him one for an early fathers day gift, May get used a few dozen times a year at most.

 

I use and like this one:

INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter

$32 INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter, Red & Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q3vPCbA30TKJ1

 

Damn, I’m an expensive friend then.

Your cv’s will probably be better off because you won’t bounce the truck as much

 

The free one i got from Harborfreight reads same as my more expensive one. Only difference i see is quality of materials and joints in the leads. Had the wires pull out of the probes on the HF one once but was replaced for free.

 

I think people should also be aware of your driving style. You drive slow and careful. No on throttle full lock to full lock slick hill climbs, no full throttle clutch dumps, no free wheelie jumps, no mini rock bouncing, no drift sessions, no race truck stuff. Mitchell may be the perfect person to copy your truck build but folks like me, Levi, Mike, John, Everett, Dave, etc .... should NOT have a mechanical locker in the front. It may be fine for you but it would take the fun out of driving my truck for me.

 

I'm assuming you're talking about for a car? Just buy a cheap one. They work just fine. You don't need anything fancy. The less settings, the better. As long as it reads volts, continuity and amps (range milliamps to 10 amps). All the other buttons and settings are rarely, if at all, used.

You could buy a more expensive one that reads 12v up to 120v or 480v but make sure it can handle high amperage (in the 100s). The simplest, best meter I've every used/owned is an Ideal 61746. Reads DC voltage (0-24), AC voltage (0-600), Amps (0-600), True RMS and is a clamp style meter. Don't remember the cost but not that expensive compared to "better" meters and he'll never need to buy another one again.

 

Very very accurate.

 

I get that bitch where she’s pointed though.

 

Even if that’s up a tree

 

There’s only a few things that are 40% off..haven’t mentioned it in awhile but where I work at Ron Hibbard Toyota in Gallatin we offer a Tacoma World discount that is basically employee pricing on parts. Just sayin.

 

@rngr what about driving on the street? I've heard it can POP loudly when driving through parking lots and stuff. I'm also ADD so I'm not sure if that will affect street driving more since the hubs are always "locked" per se

 

It's just the drive shaft and CVs spinning, no? Nothing in the diff is spinning when disengaged.

That doesn't add up to me as I think about it now but I'm here to learn

 

I believe so, yes. The driveshaft isn't spinning though, either. Just the CVs I guess? All I know is, the front diff oil, when I changed it recently, still looked brand new. So it probably doesn't spin, but the CVs do.. somehow.

 

Yay knowledge!

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/the-automatic-disconnecting-differential-system-19259.html

 

A rear lunchbox will pop and bang some in parking lots on tight turns, no big deal aside from watching people jump from the noise every now and then.

Front is invisible in 2wd on the street, it'll make your front DS spin but from a locking side it does nothing at all.

 

Yeah but I should start with a rear locker. Haven't looked to see if they have 2nd gen rear lockers on there, but I'm probably going to go with an ARB air locker from ECGS. Not sure yet.

^^ What they said. I've got the Amazon Basics one and it does everything I need.

 

Good point. I think I'm going to hold off on wheels though. It's hard to commit to spending money on the DD. I may just plastidip the wheels black and call it good enough.

 

hmm that's interesting that the front driveshaft will spin. Is it doing to do that all the time?

Marlin has way more rear lockers than they do front lockers.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/differential/locker/arb-air-locker

 

Yep, the lunchbox replaces your spider gears that would normally be turning from the non-ADD side CV shaft and spinning the ADD stub shaft the opposite way on the ADD side of the diff. The lunchbox locks the spinning CV and ADD stub shaft together so they can't spin opposite, causing your driveshaft to spin. No big deal since it's not engaged in the tcase.