What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

@23Skidoo approves

 

If you can get it out of the truck, fire is your friend. A MAPP gas torch and a few minutes will burn the bushing and make it much easier to remove. Air hammer helps too. Failing that, have a big sledge, a stupid friend to hold the socket (slightly smaller than the bush) and lots of pent-up agression. Also, a ball joint press (or upright press) help as well. There are many ways to do it

 

I'm planning to install a new power steering hardline assembly to replace the old crusty ones. I've done some searching through the forums but haven't found any discussion of this job. Looks like you just unscrew the bottom support and disconnect all of the fittings. Is there anything else to it?

 

Given how rusty everything is in that pic, the first step would be to douse everything in PB Blaster once a day for a week prior to trying the job.

MAKE SURE to use a flare-nut wrench to break loose those fittings. Less chance of rounding them off. Once you get them broken loose and spinning easily, you can use a regular open-end.

Likewise, use a flare-nut wrench to firmly attach the new lines.

*Strongly recommend* an inline filter be placed in the *return* line (it will explode if it is put in the high-pressure side). This will keep your system nice and clean. Should also look into adding one to your transmission if it's an auto. I use these: https://www.magnefinefilters.com/ and these are quite a good alternative, as well: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...8964/4836716/1997/toyota/tacoma?q=58964&pos=1 noting that the Oreilly link is for a 3/8" filter. If you need another size I can track it down for you, PM me. These things are highly recommended for any fluid-power system (Power steering and auto trans).

Other than the above info (which FYI I have not done this job on a Toyota yet, but many times on Jeeps, Hondas, Fords, Chevys, Land Rovers, etc), yes, it is pretty straightforward. Do make sure to have the front wheels off the ground and engine off when you bleed the system after reinstall. Otherwise you will cavitate the pump (air bubbles explode in suspension in the fluid, as they are compressed against the pump vanes- and literally rip steel off the pump walls/vanes) and damage your brand new system.

 

If that’s considered rusty my trucks totaled haha

 

Everything that @burntkat said. Especially on adding the in-line filter. Magnafine would be a good choice, I run one on my truck.

Note that there are 2 more line supports, one on the passenger side frame rail that is easily accessed and then the one that sits on top of the crossmember, close to the frame on the driver's side that is a bit of a bitch to get to.

 

Thanks, I have put WAY too much thought into lubricants and associated fittings...

 

Oooh...Vantablack ;-)

 

Good call on the filter @burntkat, that's not something I would have considered adding. I have a MT so no need for a filter there. I found this guide online for bleeding the system.

https://www.yotatech.com/how-tos/a/toyota-tacoma-how-to-bleed-air-out-of-power-steering-pump-415084

Should I bleed the system first to get all of the old fluid out? Or just install the new lines and then bleed it?

 

Install the new lines, then bleed it. Put the filter someplace protected yet easy to access- you'll want to replace it about once a year (honestly, probably ok to do every other year, but it is cheap insurance). Pay attention to the flow direction- these filters have a magnet as well as a filtration cartridge inside, and a bypass valve. If the filter gets too plugged up the bypass will actuate, so you don't burn up your system by plugging the return. If you install it backwards, the bypass will be slammed shut and you will burn up your pump.

These filters work so well that I don't even bother replacing the stock transmission filter anymore once I have installed one and swapped out the interior filter after I purchase the vehicle. They are quick and easy to replace, and filter better than the trans filter. I install a drain pan with a drain bolt, and fluid/filter service is much more easy to do- so I do it more often.

OB PS system- change the lines, then bleed it. You're going to lose a good portion of that old fluid when you swap the lines anyway (might as well just let it drain off into a bucket when you remove the line from the PS pump, depending on how nasty it is). So you will replace that with new fluid, and then the filter will screen out the crap in the old fluid. End result- you have much cleaner fluid. If you really wanted to go nuts you could do a fluid replacement along the lines of how Timmy (can't remember his actual nick, sorry!) does it. That would be a great idea if the fluid is really nasty. Otherwise, I'd just install the filter, top off and bleed it, and then drive. Know that you will be making your fluid cleaner as you drive, and don't worry about it.

 

OK, as promised-
(EDIT: ping @Jamesboy2233)

The following is true for a 97 3.4. You will have to verify if you have a different year/engine.
-First of all, spark plug thread pitch is M14-1.25 (found this by pulling up a plug on Oreilly, and then verified with several different plugs, just to make sure)

-Repair kit is here: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...m14-1-25-spark-plug-repair-kit/533414/4368699 (EDIT: better price- by nearly $20- here-

$36 Helicoil 5334-14 Save-A-Thread Thread Repair Kit M14 x 1.25

https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O Same PN, 5334-14, and here are the LONG refills for $3.69 each: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...l/4368814/1997/toyota/tacoma?q=R532614L&pos=0. Do note that you should check the length of the inserts before buying- I have found many were in the wrong boxes when they arrived from the Hub store- seems Helicoil is having issues with packaging, as I have found this to be true many times, to the point I always check a helicoil against the tap and a bolt of the proper size before purchase)



-NOTE! *DO NOT* use a "wire wound" sort of plug repair kit- it will not seal. You have to use one with the machined bushing. You will need to use the long inserts (verify against a plug you run in your engine, I am pulling that from memory). There are three inserts with the kit, each different length. You want to have the longest one you can use in your engine without being longer than the plug- so you will only be able to use one of the three. You can buy just the inserts, of a given length, and they are quite reasonably priced).

If you verify that the thread pitch and length of insert is as above, I can pull the part number off my insert refill kit to get the other 5 for you. I had to do some googling and comparing.

-Watch this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1hGsTg7peI it covers what I was talking about referring to using grease on the tap to prevent shavings getting into the cylinder. GO SLOW. When I did mine, I only went about 2 turns at a time, then removed, cleaned, regreased, and started again. It took me about a half hour to do one cylinder this way- but I didn't have any issues with aluminum scoring up the cylinder walls, nor did I have a thousand dollar repair bill to remove and machine the head off vehicle. Haste makes waste!

There is another video that really goes into depth on this process, and shows you evidence of how it does keep the metal out of the engine. I can't find it offhand, will keep looking.

Also, do this with a ratchet and extension. The tap is designed to slip onto a 3/8 drive. DO NOT use power tools, again, haste makes waste.

I have done this repair on several friends' vehicles, never had a problem. Paper towels and brake cleaner are your friend, and cheap. Use lots of them to clean the tap between sessions of tapping the new hole.

Also, when you insert the insert the final time, use red loctite. You will still stake it in place, but it will not come out without intent (works better than red RTV in my experience). Also, you will see there is concern with inserting the insert too far into the head with some plugs- this wasn't the problem in the 3.4 case, as the plugs (at least the ones I used) have a washer seat, preventing over-insertion if you use the plug as a insertion tool. Now, when you remove the plug, drag on the threads may cause it to back out- so before you do that, make sure the plug is clean (use a new one if possible) and test it to be sure it runs smoothly in and out of the threads.

It's rather daunting, but really not a huge thing. Given the problems you are having, it might just fix that weak cylinder. I'd give it a shot. $60 in parts might just ave you a rebuild/replacement engine.

 

Oh my that’s a nice rig!

 

Not a bad idea. But since you mentioned you ripped the threads out of one of the holes, and are only having trouble on that one cylinder, I'd almost bet you beer that's the one you will find with the munged threads.

It's only about a half hour of work. Most of that is fretting over the idea of reaming out a cylinder head in-place. I will soon be doing the rest of mine, because some of them are questionable with regard tightness. I know the people that worked on this engine somewhere in the past stripped one- and that cost me a coil pack when it launched the plug through it!- so the others make me uneasy. For a little axle grease and time, I won't ever have to worry about it again.

 

Oh, yeah- if this is the case, you need a new engine, soonest. I would do inserts in all the plug holes while you have it apart, if you are going to rebuild the engine. Didn't know you had crank issues.

 

if you mean the front hangar,

Use something similar to this.

OTC 7249 Ball Joint, U-Joint, and Brake Anchor Pin Service Kit with Storage Case

$145 OTC 7249 Ball Joint, U-Joint, and Brake Anchor Pin Service Kit with Storage Case , Gray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRGXY/

Can also try a big socket and a BFH with a block of wood.

 

I didn’t take the old bushings out. I installed new leafs so the old bushings are still sitting in the old leafs.

When I took the old leafs out of the shackles it just slid right off the shackle bolt with a wack or two from a hammer.

 

That, I don't know. There has got to be some reference point, but I don't know it.

 

Rear lift is done! Rides great, no vibrations, funny noises or shit falling off of it. Starting on the front Wednesday:

 

Nice, added rear leafs? Got a solid 2.5" yea?

 

All Pro Leaf pack and Icon 2.0 shocks.

Not sure on height gained, I meant to measure before and forgot.