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Spod switch panel

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by 50stateoverlander, Mar 12, 2019.

  1. Apr 19, 2019 at 10:54 AM
    #21
    Roofy

    Roofy Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein 5100’s, Vision Wheels, slotted StopTech rotors, TRD pads, SPOD, Decked Drawers, N'Fab Steps, Leer Cap, Prinsu racks, KC Highlites 40” & Cyclones underbody, Rigid Scenes, anytime LED Fogs, TacomaBeast headlights, RAGO bed stiffeners, USB rocker in cab & 2xUSB in bed for always on option.
    Saw a YouTube on this.

    @Alesimo has a stick. Maybe he can chime in
     
  2. Apr 19, 2019 at 11:05 AM
    #22
    velogeek

    velogeek Well-Known Member

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    This is a good portion of why I ended up with a SwitchPros instead. The unit is freaking tiny by comparison because it's solid-state and SDHQ makes a bracket that offsets the unit toward the rear of the truck so you don't have to move your reservoir.
     
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  3. Apr 19, 2019 at 12:01 PM
    #23
    Lunchmeat79

    Lunchmeat79 Well-Known Member

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    I like the smaller size of the switch pro but I like the built in bus bars and wearherproof enclosure on the spod. Is one more reliable than the other in the long run?
     
  4. Apr 19, 2019 at 12:41 PM
    #24
    velogeek

    velogeek Well-Known Member

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    In theory the SP9100 would last longer given it's solid state (no exposure to elements, no moving parts, regulated voltages, etc.) but it also means that if something fails, you're SOL as it's one sealed unit. It's a trade-off one way or the other. Worst case scenario, I carry a small spool of 10ga wire in my kit and could rig anything I needed to (aside from maybe my compressor) in the event mine fails.

    The SP9100 is a standard Molex connector so you can re-pin and replace circuits as needed. I have mine done with custom gauges and lengths for all the loads so I'm not running 10ga wire for a 3A lamp circuit... it saves a few pounds and thinner wire is easier to run and tuck away.
     
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  5. Apr 19, 2019 at 12:49 PM
    #25
    Lunchmeat79

    Lunchmeat79 Well-Known Member

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    @velogeek do you have pics of your setup or a build thread? I'm looking at the sdhq setup now but their pics are lacking.
     
  6. Apr 19, 2019 at 2:48 PM
    #26
    Alesimo

    Alesimo Jeeper

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    I just screwed it into the fuse box. No problem with mounting anything
     
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  7. Apr 22, 2019 at 6:48 AM
    #27
    velogeek

    velogeek Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately, no. I can probably snap a few later if you wanted any pics in particular but I'm not sure I can add much to what's out there at the moment.

    I actually want to re-run some of the cables to the interior because I need a couple more than planned so when I do that, I'll likely tear it all down and do a how-to. It's actually really easy, just tedious as all hell since you have to yank so many dash panels.
     
  8. Apr 22, 2019 at 9:58 AM
    #28
    Lunchmeat79

    Lunchmeat79 Well-Known Member

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    @velogeek No worries. I'm just curious where you mount the bus bars on the sdhq plate or if they go elsewhere. It looks like powertrays has a good option also.
     
  9. Apr 22, 2019 at 10:04 AM
    #29
    velogeek

    velogeek Well-Known Member

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    There's probably enough room to run one on an auto but it's not going to be an ideal setup and it will likely interfere with the clutch reservoir on the MT - it's clearly intended you just splice your loads straight into the leads and since the voltage regulation is handled solid state (e.g. no fuses required) it's simpler to do that IMO.
     
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  10. Apr 22, 2019 at 10:08 AM
    #30
    Lunchmeat79

    Lunchmeat79 Well-Known Member

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    @velogeek Gotcha! I think the power trays is the setup for me, I don't trust my splicing abilitites all that much. Thanks for all the info!
     

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