KeithB's SWB '09 Tacoma DCSB V6 4.0 TRD Sport 4x4

They aren't "pods" per se', more like one long pod. It's a 33" double row LED light bar mounted to the crush bar.

 

Your new headlights look good!

 

I’m referring to your rear bumper haha but the front looks awesome too man !!

 

Oh yeah, duh! Thanks. I held off cutting and installing for a long time after I bought them because I was so nervous about messing up my bumper. I had seen others had done it and knew that since the bumper is curved top to bottom, they would not be completely flush. Filled the gap on top with some black RTV.

 

Looks mint! Nice job man!

 

Looking good! Love the headlights

 

Mounted my Ultragauge that I bought for monitoring trans temp while towing my new (to me) boat in front of the RPM gauge. I can still see up to 2500 rpm and there are no idiot dash lights in the top section of the rpm gauge so nothing is blocked besides the higher rpm which I normally never reach anything over 3000rpm. Also, I tried in the bottom left and upper left of the windshield and near the rear view mirror but didn't like that my visibility was hindered or that the gauge would be in direct sunlight and in view of thieves. Here it's much less obvious and can't be seen through my tinted windows unless you are specifically looking for it. I used the horizontal surface mount and routed the wire around the outside fo the rpm gauge and down through the steering column.

 

Installed Fox's to replace my 10 year old (180k miles) ICON's that were leaking. A few weeks later, replaced the uniball in my TC UCA's and the bushings because they were causing an aweful clunking noise and grinding. Then the Fox rears finally showed up after 6 week backorder and installed those too. The lower rear shock mount is a major PITA to line up especially with a bushing that is too wide to fit between the mounting tabs.

 

This week, 185,000 miles: New OEM LCA with new bushings and ball joint, rear diff gear oil change, tire rotation, oil filter change, fog light wire harness replacement, greased UCA bushings, updated first post with most recent pictures and mod and maintenance log. Should hit 200k around my birthday in April 2020.

 

Maintenance and Repair Record:

2009 TRD Sport DCSB. 186,700 miles. Been lifted on 33's since 2 months old. It is my DD.
Tows my boat and hauls gear/supplies but no off-road except a handful of beach runs over the years.

AMSOIL synthetic engine oil every 10k miles, Toyota oil filter every 5k miles.
AMSOIL gear oil every 40k miles for rear diff, front diff and xfer case
3rd battery
4th windshield
6th set of tires rotated every 5k miles (1 set was the stockers which only had 4k miles on them and another set only had 15k as they were not to my liking)
Cabin and engine air filters and windshield wipers changed yearly
3rd set of front brake pads, rears are origonal, 2nd set of rotors
Spark plugs every 30-40k

88k: Front bumper repaired and repainted
97k: Fuel system flush
100k: Transmission fluid change
102k: Injector coil/pack for cylinder #5
105k: HVAC blower fan
107k: Temp compass resistors and HVAC blower fan resistor
122k: Front wheel bearings
128k: Drive shaft U-joints and carrier bearing
128k: Serpentine belt and pulleys changed
130k: Oil control valve
149k: Hood, rear quarter panel and driver rocker repainted, rear bumper replaced
170k: Steering, brake, and coolant fluids drain and fill
170k: New CV axles
180k: All new shocks
181k: Replacement UCA bushings and uniball
184k: New LCA with ball joint and bushings

 

are you changing your gear oil every 40K because you tow often? Good stuff on the Amsoil. I use Amsoil as well. I use the PI every oil change.

 

Yeah it always comes out pretty clean but figure it's no biggie to change it every couple years for peace of mind.

 

So a few updates -

1. The HVAC blower resistor has been replaced a couple times and continues to cause intermittent slow/med speed blower malfunctions. It would work for a year or two and then crap out again. So this time I replaced the wire harness also. Only time will tell but hoping that does it.

$32 82141-04M40

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TNNSWNC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Blower Motor Resistor - 87138-04052

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G6FDT7E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2. The temp/compass display kept blanking out on me and I've done the 510 resistor resolder at least 3-4 times and it only lasts 6 months or so. So I bought new in line resistors off ebay and soldered them in. Again, only time will tell. Can't find the link right now but they were cheap - like 20 resistors for a dollar. Came from China.

3. My clazzio seat covers (less than 2 years old) are starting to crack on the driver side seat bottom. I've been using the cleaner and conditioner they sell every 4-6 months too. Anyway, I contacted them and may be getting a replacement piece free of charge. It's with their claims dept right now.

Edit 9/30/19: Seat cover bottom received free of charge and installed. Somehow managed to tear the stitching out on one of the straps and ripped the draw string while installing.

4. Window tint (to match the rear) on the front side windows especially the driver side after 10 years is starting to show it's age. A few wrinkles and ding spots so I'm having that redone next week.

Edit 9/30/19: Done, no issues.

5. Rear brakes inspected and cleaned. Pads look good still after 188k miles. But since the parking brake has been sticking for the past year and a half, I wanted them checked. Couldn't do it myself since the drums have never been removed and were seized on. Hopefully the clean and lube takes care of the sticky parking brake.

Edit 9/30/19: Almost 2k miles later and parking brake seems to be working properly now. No issues since it was cleaned and lubed.

6. After my LCA replacement, I started to notice a popping noise (just once each time) from the driver side front end. Only while turning after changing from forward to reverse or vice versa. Started maybe a month or two after the LCA replacement. Turns out my alignment cams bolt/nuts were loose (meaning I could turn them with an 8" wrench). I tightened them up to 100 ft/lbs and the pop noise is gone. Still having the alignment redone since it may be out of whack now.

Edit 9/30/19: popping noise still gone but had to comment here that Firestone is now telling me the caster can't be adjusted on these trucks even though they've been doing it on this truck for the past 10 years. I only questioned it because the report showed no values for the caster measurement. WTH?

 

Also, this happened June 30, 2019:


4-5" rock airborne on a 3 lane highway. Swerved to avoid it but not enough I guess. Took it clean off. Luckily that was the only damage. Could have been much worse (grill/radiator, windshield, death). I think it probably was stuck between the double tires on an 18 wheeler and then broke free. Anyway, found a replacement that was already the right color at an online junkyard. Car-parts.com They had 4-5 that were the right color to choose from. $65 +$20 shipping. Bolted on and plugged in the wire harness and done. You don't realize how much you depend on your mirrors until they are not there.

 

nice build! Saw your truck at the Springfield meet, gotta say I like the headlights. How have they held up? been meaning to get a pair. Also, just curious about your front plate relocation setup, where did you get it? Is there a link and was it just plug and play or was it more complicated? I'd like to do something similar. Hate having the plate where it is now. Thanks in advance!

 

Thanks. - Headlights are holding up well so far. They are about 14 months old. However, I preemptively ran a bead of clear silicone around the outside edge where the lens meets the housing and I also use a UV protectant spray on them every few months. Some people have had good luck with them and others have moisture intrusion and / or yellowing or peeling lenses. So far so good though. As for the license plate mounting bracket, its a stock mounting bracket from a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500. I think it was like $10 online. It does require drilling new holes in the lower valence and the old holes would have to be filled. I found color matched plugs online way back when. Sorry I have no idea where I got the plugs but I think they were like $30. You could always just fill the holes with a small carriage bolt painted black.

 

I actually found the plugs online, (it was bumperplugs.com) I was just holding off on buy them until i was sure about what relocation kit you used. Thanks for the heads up!

 

Remembering day 1:

 

Some more minor changes in Oct 2019:

First - hit 190k on 10/1/19. Estimate hitting 200k milestone around my birthday mid April 2020.

Went to rotate my tires at 190k and found 3 wheel studs had the lug nuts seized on. All were on the right front wheel. Had Firestone replace them as I could not get the nuts off. Bought all new

$32 24pcs Chrome Silver Bulge Lug Nuts - Metric 12x1.5 Thread Size - 1.75" Length - ET Style - Cone Conical Taper Seat Shank - Closed End - Compatible with Select 6Lug Vehicles and Aftermarket Wheels

extended thread (ET) lugs on Amazon as the old ones were 10+ years old and had rusty threads.

Found a bolt holding my center caps on my Ultra wheels was missing and the center cap was hanging on by the only other bolt and making a squeeking noise. Bought new black center caps to replace the chrome ones for a new look.

Then bought new TACOMA door badges in black to replace the chrome factory badges. Painted the chrome ones first but the paint chipped off a little on day one and knew it wasn't going to last through the winter.

Also bought a shorty 6" FM antenna. Just a new look. I don't even listen to FM anyway.

 

Pics of new black door badges (not so visible in these shots, oh well), shorty antenna and black center wheel caps:


Before:

After: