Lifting my 2017 OR Tacoma and want opinions

I am a newbie to the vehicle modification world. I made the mistake of trusting a local tire shop when they told me 33”s would fit in my stock taco. As you can guess, they rub.

I’m taking this opportunity to lift my 2017 taco OR. It’s my daily driver. Not planning on rock crawling but I drive a lot of public land back roads for hunting, fishing. I don’t plan on loading the truck with heavy mods. I occasionally haul a truck bed of rocks / firewood / elk, etc.

I don’t need top of the line stuff but want to do it right. I’m looking for approx 3” total lift (my understanding is the OR is 1” already, so my suspension lift needs to be 2”, right?).

I have a friend who’s done lifts and has the tools. With his experience and YouTube hopefully I don’t butcher it.

After spending a lot of time lurking on this forum, I’ve come up with this:

3-2” full suspension lift with bilstein 5100 front & rear, eibach front coils, diff drop, UCA, bump stops

Bilstein Eibach combo kit
https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...ith-eibach-coils-for-2016-2019-toyota-tacoma/

JBA UCA
https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high...plus-4runner-03-plus-fj-cruisers-07-plus.html

Bump stop & U flip My understanding is if I’m keeping the lift 2-3” I don’t need to extend brake lines.

What do you guys think? Thanks in advance.

 

First off, welcome to TW!
The Lift looks ok and no you should not need to extend brake lines.
The lift alone will still not clear the tires. Best you can do is set caster on alignment to around 4 to 4.5 but that still may not be enough. You are going to need to cut and trim some thing, use of a hammer will also be necessary.

 

Also look at the jba uca page of you still have stock or wheels you may end up rubbing. Can be fixed with spacers or new wheels though..

 

After looking into the tire rub issue I will probably go with a set of spidertrax spacers rather than spring for new wheels or tires.

$143 Spidertrax WHS007 Blue Wheel Spacer Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Spidertrax-S...ocphy=9021356&hvtargid=pla-570343956605&psc=1

Do you feel the replacement bump stops are a good idea or is it overkill for my intentions?

Thanks guys

 

The tires are 285/75/16 Goodyear Wranglers. The rub is on the stock UCAs with very minimal on the plastic. Here are some pics:


Thanks

 

Your best bet for what you are doing is swap to a 255/85 which is a skinny tire that will accomplish everything you need without lifting, spacers, cutting etc

 

It shrank

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I decided to go ahead and replace my wheels and then do the lift.

Here are the wheels: 16x8 6 on 5.5 with 0 offset and 4.5” backspacing.
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-32-series-bandido-matte-black-alloy-wheels/9297

After those are on I’ll do the eibach/bilstein 2” lift and replace the UCAs.

Any other advice before I really dive in is welcome!

I’ll post pics when it’s done.

 

No offense so please don't take this in a bad way. You still have the mud flaps on your truck... you aren't doing much off the beaten path. Why not leave the truck alone and get your money back on those tires since the tire shop made the mistake?

 

No offense taken and it’s good question. I considered that. I’m planning on getting out into the backcountry a lot deeper this hunting season. I’ve gotten into a few areas recently where my clearance became an issue.

The most honest answer of why I want to proceed with the lift is because I’ve always wanted to learn how to work on vehicles and I like how a suspension lift looks / feels.

The 285/75r16 tire issue / rub just expedited the decision for me.

My main reason for posting this is to find out if my plan sucks or could be done better for a similar amount of work or price.

I’ll be taking off the mud flaps - don’t wanna be looking too green out there.

 

Stick to 2”. Don’t do a diff drop (unnecessary on 3rd gen). Don’t do CB drop. Don’t do wheel spacers if you care about your bearing and more importantly your paint. You will likely want/need ECGS bushing to replace the driver CV needle bearing.

If you change out your rear leafs to Dakars or something with equal droop you will want extended break lines. Front brake lines will be fine, other than that your research looks good.