Suspension Install; anyone want to help/tips?

Don't know how some of you guys do it but, I could not for the life of me, get the lower part of my Fox 2.5 coilover to line up at all to the lower control arm.

Mod party?
Will bring food and drinks

Just need to do the rear...leaf springs that is.

 

I would help, but I’m a good distance from you. I’m sure someone closer would be willing to help. Good luck

 

No worries!

Never did leaf's before...should be interesting.

 

Wrong thread

 

Same - @Kwikvette, wouldn't mind at all giving you a hand but you are way south of me. Do you have a house/garage space? If so, its completely do-able to install the dakars yourself. Between the numerous vids on youtube and the writeups here, more than possible. When I did mine, my helper flaked and I ended up doing it myself.

If you decide to tackle it yourself, have the following handy:

1. A decent floor jack (once you have the rear on stands, use the floor jack under the pumpkin to easily raise and lower the axle)
2. A couple of decent 6-ton jack stands
3. Extra Jack Stands (I used a couple of pissy little 3-tons to support the axle just in case)
4. Ratchet strap to help 'walk' the axle. Will aid in dropping that center pin.

Referencing the FSM (see below - attached PDF) will give you the 'correct' process and from there just reference as many threads and videos on dakar installs as possible. Doesn't matter if they're 2nd/3rd gen installs - still essentially the same procedure.

IMO its a good idea to replace the u-bolts when you remove them - shouldn't reuse them. They're cheap enough so why not? Safety first.

if installing rear shocks and you need to insert the rubber bushings - I found this works best (remember, no lube for those rubber bushings) -

https://youtu.be/VE6zMmc8Xco

torque specs - snug tight while on stands then once back on the ground under its own weight, torque it to spec.

REAR
Front Hangar Bolt (19mm) - 116 ftlbs
U Bolts (22mm) - 90 ftlbs
Upper & Lower Shock Mounts (17mm) - 53 ftlbs

OME Greasable Shackles (22mm) - 60 ftlbs

**if using OE/stock Shackles (19mm) - 67 ftlbs


This should be enough to get you started - like I said, nearly all the basic info on this can be found here and on youtube. Just research and review, take your time when installing and take a break when hitting a snag.

 

Thanks guys for the support!

Actually tackling it as we speak. My main concern was, I'm doing everything outside. That's what you get when you save money to buy a house outside the city lol no garage



Also, my wheelers bump stops arrived as I'm doing all of this

 

Bolts holding the leaf springs up front are a pain in the ass...good thing I've had everything soaked in PB B'laster for the past 2 weeks.

FYI when undoing the bottom bolts on your u-bolts, make sure your 19mm socket is deep enough to capture the bolt. One was really tight and I was afraid I would've had to go out and buy a deep socket.

 

Some would say it takes balls to do this



Helps to label your shit too

 

Stuck

What's the secret password for this bad boy? Will I have to capture a lot of fluid?



I have an extended brake line so I would be removing it anyway. I just couldn't get enough droop to remove my unbolted leaf spring.

 

Did you figure it out? You'll need a flare nut wrench to do it. Be careful - last thing you want is to strip that nut.

I personally have not done brakes at all let alone bleeding them. I ended up just having a shop do the line and also do a fluid replace since my brake fluid was overdue to be changed.

You'll be fine installing the rest of the OME kit without doing the line immediately if you decide to put it off. Here's a link -

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/extended-rear-brake-line-install.593618

 

I can not for the life of me line up the front bolt on the leaf spring

And no I didn't remove the brake line, didn't want to strip it!

 

Ratchet strap brother. Around axle, secure to hole in frame. Keep the pumpkin supported, go one click at a time. "Walk it forward"

 

I did see that in a few threads and although I haven't tried it yet (need to buy a good ratchet strap first), I feel that it may not work.

Using the ratchet strap to pull the axle forward towards the front of the vehicle would also bring forward the leaf spring/eyelet. My problem is, the eyelet is already too far forward and I actually need the leaf spring/axle to move backwards for the hole to line up.

 

ok, so reverse the process then - secure it to your bumper or whatever and walk it back that way. trust me here, it works - i've used it the last two times I've had to remove them. You don't have to go far, just enough to line it up.

 

Will do!

Need to take a break; whenever I get frustrated, I just learn to stop and walk away.

Going to buy a ratchet strap, and exhaust pipe cutter. Need to cut my exhaust

 

Be running out of daylight soon... But yep, walk away when a break is needed.

Are you on the first side or last?

 

Today's progress, driver side. Front bolt not in yet...will do later.



Passenger side, shackle isn't even on yet.

 

Driver's side needs the leaf spring to be ratcheted back as you suggested to get the bolt all the way in.

Passenger's side has the leaf spring resting on the axle. Shackle's and bushings greased up but nothing is bolted down.

 

Uh-oh... Damn. You want the "+" marked pack on the driver side.

I forgot to mention that in my first reply to you. Sorry bud.

The indicates the pack tested a little stronger above spec. The "0" means it meets spec. If it were marked eith a "-" then it would be slightly below OME spec but still meeting OEM specs.

You want the higher rated pack on the driver side due to the gas tank, your weight, etc.

 

I thought that, but I went by part number instead.

"A" is for driver's side, "B" is for passenger's side.

Worst case I finish tomorrow morning.