TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Bought mine on urd. Black Friday sale with free shipping. Got it in under a week.

 

Magnuson direct or TREperformance has them also.

 

Got stuff to plumb my ice box. once meth kit is all done I’ll start this. I got the tee to tap into by the front pump lowest part of system and going to put a shit off valve on it with another hose to drain the system easily when I need to

 

Inject where on the intake?

 

Inject? What u talking about Willis.

 

Maybe he means where are you injecting meth?

 

Ohhh intake before the throttle body. I’ll have it mounted this weekend and I’ll take some more pictures.

 

New guys in this thread, heads up! Round two is coming and may be the last chance to get these cam gears!

www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cnc-machined-1gr-fe-exhaust-cam-gears-3%C2%B0-retard.605925/page-7#post-20752127

 

@loginfailed , your buddy with the Camaro is here at C&C.

 

C&C sounds like fun. It's on my bucket list for sure.

 

There’s Probly one around you. They are everywhere’s now. Even here across the us from u. I have 2 close to me with in 40 min drive.

 

I'll have to check on that. Thank you.

 

I guess this is it Rob. You can link to this post.

When I’d initially gone down to the 2.5” blower pulley; I was suspicious that the belt was slipping. Boost levels weren’t where I thought they should be. First, I upgraded the tensioner. But, there was no change in boost levels. So, I decided to do a pulley wrap and see what happens.

Looking at the drive setup I see a couple available bolt holes that I could use to mount an idler. The one I’ve chosen being the best candidate. But, the pulley would need to be pretty small. I decided I wanted something between 38-42mm in diameter to work with the 2.5” blower pulley. This proved to be not so easy to find.

I finally found and settled on this 40mm timing belt idler that is sourced from a VW/Audi 1.8tdi motor. Part #'s:

VW# 038109244J
INA# 5320349100

It was the best candidate of all the pulleys that I ordered, measured, and agonized over. (There were quite a few) As a bonus, it has a nice solid cast iron base that is relatively easy to modify for our purposes. Also, as an added bonus, center bore is for a M8 dia. bolt. Which is exactly what we need.





Obviously, we need to modify this thing to get it ready for prime time.

Looking at the way it is built; The bearing is pressed into a sleeve that overhangs it on both sides. More so at the front. The bearing itself sits between the lines I've drawn here.

I wanted the belt to ride as close as possible the the center of the actual bearing. This necessitated cutting off the rear part of the sleeve pretty much flush with the back of the bearing and then trimming the mounting base down to the correct length to line everything up. That’s where the machinists lathe comes in. I left the extra lip at the front alone with the thought that it'll catch some air and help dissipate some heat.




I don’t have any action shots currently. The lathe is offline due to other projects blocking access. But y’all are clever. Here’s some shots of it installed. I’ve been running it for 5-6k miles at this point. No issues this far.

Do be super careful when cutting the base that it’s perfectly square. We don’t want the idler sitting in there cockeyed and trashing the belt. Also, you’ll need to find the correct length 8x1.25 bolt. The length will vary depending on where you cut your mounting base. So, therefore I can’t tell you exactly what length you need.





The beauty if this setup is that not only do we achieve awesome wrappage on the blower pulley, but, we can use the stock length belt. At least with the smaller blower pulley sizes you can. I’m running the gates RPM (K050705RPM) belt for our trucks along with the Roush tensioner.

This still needs more editing, but, you get the gist.

Here’s some more pics to give you more of an idea of what I did here.

 

Ah, cool. If you talk to Brian tell him hello for me.

 

Guys, does this just get a cap to block it off when doing the air injection delete?

 

Not sure exactly what you're referring too, but this is all that needs to come out:

 

Gotta run line from bed to the solenoid.

 

Ok. That explains.

 

Nice. Did you paint or powder coat the valve covers? You’re running Snow meth injection, right?