Need help with some wiring

So, I want to try to adapt a Qi wireless charging pad that I have onto my already installed Pro Clip Phone holder. I want to use the Qi switch from the 3rd gen Tacoma's and put it in the lower center of the dash (Under the AC controls) so I can turn it off and on. I did a sketch of what I was thinking on how to wire it up using a relay. I am not sure if I need to go through a relay but not sure what the factory switch is rated for.

I believe what I have is correct but do not know where pin 11 of the switch goes to.

Here is the Qi pad: https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Wir...harging+pads&qid=1561042892&s=gateway&sr=8-16

 

I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to install in the center console but you do not need a relay. Most Fast chargers run on 2.1 Amps. You should only have to wire a positive and negative for the usb ports. You can tap into the fuse panel or the cigarette lighter for power. You can buy them on Amazon.

Cllena Toyota Car 12V 24V to 5V 3.1A Dual USB Ports Dashboard Mount Charger Blue Light (2.1/1.2A-2)

$13 Cllena Car 12V 24V to 5V 3.1A Dual USB Ports Dashboard Mount Charger Blue Light for Toyota (2.1/1.2A-2)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTOKI06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qt9cDbY2TP8YD

Here's a pic of mine.

 

on the 3rd Gen Tacomas, they have Qi wireless charging pad and they have a switch that can turn it off

See pict:

I currently have a ProClip mount for my phone which has to plug in. I want to adapt a wireless charging pad on the front side of my ProClip mount so all I have to do is slide my phone into the mount and it charges. No I have to somewhat line the connector up with the phone before pressing the phone all the way down. And it takes both hand to get the phone out because of the tight fit of the lighting connector. The Qi Pad uses a mini connector and an USB-A on the other side. Behind the dash now I have a Cigarette light plug adapter with a 2.4 Amp USB plug.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-RAVP...d=1561057470&s=gateway&sprefix=USB+ci,aps,113

$16 NOCO GC018 15A 14AWG 12V Adapter, Heavy-Duty Cigarette Lighter Plug, and Female Socket with Eyelet Terminals

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-A...57542&s=gateway&sprefix=ciger,aps,115&sr=8-14

https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Wir...words=Qi+Pad&qid=1561057633&s=gateway&sr=8-42


I want to wire the Tacoma Qi Switch to my Qi Pad and also be able to turn it on and use it without the truck running which is how i have my ProClip wired now. I am not sure about the relay but not sure of the current rating of the Tacoma Qi Switch, that is why it is in my sketch.. I would rather not use it. But pin 11 of the Qi switch I am not sure where it goes to?

 

What you have looks like it should work.
Pin 11 looks too be labeled to go too either a switched or constant 12 volts. That would tell me you have the choice of whether the charging pad would work with the truck was running or not.

 

Okay. That makes more sense. I was confused because the 2nd gen taco doesn't have any charging or USB outlets at all. If the guy who posted above me is right, all you need to do to test that wire is use a test probe or multimeter. Regardless, it sounds like you have it mostly figured out. Hope it works out.

 

Pin 11 is the power that when you push the button, goes out on that blue line to terminal 86 on the relay.
Edit: if you're using a relay with 5 terminals, 87à is energized when the relay is off. Swap the wires on 30&87 to eliminate the possibility of it bouncing around and shorting out.

 

I looked up the wiring diagram online. It looks like pin 11 is ACC power, which means it only draws power with the vehicle turned on. It is the main source of power coming in. If it does not have power, nothing else in this diagram will work. You can hook it up directly to a constant power source but be aware that if you do, it will be a parasitic draw on the battery while the vehicle is off.

If you have a fuse between the relay and the battery, remove the fuse from your cigarette adapter. It doesn't make sense to have 2 fuses in 1 electrical circuit.

If you plan to install other relays for more components, I'd suggest installing a fuse/relay box. It will look tidy and is easier to troubleshoot if you ever have any electrical problems.

 

Yes, I was planing on only using the fuse where it comes off the battery. I need to rethink this a little. I will replace the 4 pin relay with a 5 pin in my sketch and repost it. If I connect pin 11 to Constant power, and the switch is off, there should be no power going to the Qi pad, hence no battery draw? Correct? Unless I turn the switch on?

 

You don't need a 5 pin relay. I only mentioned it because of the possible live exposed terminal.
When you remove that second fuse, make that the value of the fuse feeding the relay.

 

A 4 pin relay is fine. And yes, if the switch is off, there wont be a power draw on the battery. But you'd have to be conscious about it every time you get out of the truck.

If it were me, I would just feed the trigger wire of the relay with ACC power. Then your cigarette adapter will always have power when the truck is on and you don't have to worry about a switch at all. That's how I wired my running lights, USB chargers, and power switches for exterior lights (LED light bar, rear facing LED pods, fog lights, bed lights, and rock lights).

 

Thank you very much gentlemen. One more thing, the green wire and green wire w/ white strip from the truck, are they in the right location on the switch and will it dim with the dimmer switch with the the rest of the dash lights?

I like the relay box idea as I have 3 other relay I’m using for lights on the truck. Where did u mount your relay box?

 

Yea, although I'm not sure why they used a separate ground for the dimmer wire. Most switches only use 1 ground.

As for the relay box, I mounted it on the drivers side of the engine compartment behind the main relay/fuse box. I have a second gen and there was plenty of room for it there. There were also 2 threaded holes that lined up perfectly with the mounting bracket for my box. I bought a bunch of different bolts from home depot and found the ones that fit and returned the rest. I didn't have to drill any holes for it.

I powered it with a bus bar and an 8 gauge wire from the battery. I used 14 gauge wire for everything I hooked up. The ground for the relays are all jumped off each other and are connected directly to one of the grounding spots the battery is hooked up to.

Each connector was crimped and soldered together. For extra holding strength I used E6000 industrial glue to keep the pins from relays from pushing the connectors back out. I used a 14 gauge 7 wire trailer wiring kit (25 feet for each color) to color code my wires so I knew what each one went to when I ran them through my firewall. I used a lot of heat shrink tubing and a nylon loom to hold the wires together and give it a more professional look. All my connections were soldered together whenever possible. There are very few butt connections.

 

Thank you so much for the info @Taco Shepherd & @Larzzzz

 

@Taco Shepherd & @Larzzzz, I looked and all I have are 5 pin relays so I updated my sketch to reflect the 5 pin relay and have connected Pin 11 of the switch to the ACC in the fuse panel.

I also swapped pin 30 & 87 of the relay like you suggested if using a 5 pin relay. I realize the switch will only turn the Qi pad on & off with the truck on. If I wanted the switch to be able to turn the Qi pad on & off even if the truck is off, what would I connect pin 11 of the switch to? Battery?

 

I have ordered the Qi switch from Toyota and am hoping there is something on there that says the max current it can handle. If it more than 2.4amp (which is all the USB Adapter can put out that is being plugged into the cigarette light adapter behind the dash for the Qi pad). I am going to skip using a relay all together. Here is my sketch of that connection. Sorry for questions, I am just not that good at electrical stuff. My goal is with this setup is to be able to have the Qi pad powered all the time as long as the switch is on, and turn the switch off to remove power from the Qi pad

 

Personally, I'd use the relay. Even if the switch is rated. The coil of a relay draws much less and will extend the life of the physical contacts in the switch itself. If you want it on with the truck off, feed pin 11 with the same feed that you'd run to the relay.

 

Good point!!! So I would run Pin 11 of the switch to what pin of the relay?

 

Run it from the power source on the relay (the line from the battery).

The bosch style relays are all 5 pins but you can just cap off the middle pin. It isn't needed

 

Pin 87? Correct?

Also, why did you suggest swapping pins 87 & 30 from my original sketch with the 4 pin relay if I used a 5 pin relay. I'm not using 87a. I guess I am a bit confused

 

So that 5th terminal, 87a is not energized when the relay is off.
Make a peace sign and turn it horizontal. Your index finger is 87a and the middle finger is 87. Take your other index finger put it between the other 2. This is terminal 30. Moving the lone index finger between the other 2 describes the operation of the switch. When the relay is energized, it pulls the index finger (30) down to the middle finger (87). When it's turned off, 30 springs back to make contact with 87a