Fully polished TuRD

Triple check which ones they are, I priced them out and they were cheap searching for vapor 2. Turns out that's the old model and they were cheap and only in some oddball Ford bolt pattern and 8lug. Searched series 85, and the price was double and they had the Toyota bolt pattern. However they may be running a sale like you said, just an fyi what kind of burned me when pricing these out.

The wheels are pretty nice. The beadlock ring is beefy as hell, easily 2.5x's thicker than the trail readys they replaced. The bolts are also bigger as well and they have nord lock washers which is nice. Drama free install. One thing they don't tell you is they don't come with valve stems, luckly I had 4 spares from my trail readys that worked. That was slightly frustrating but it is what it is and nothing to get too fired up over. They also need a 19mm lug nut, I picked these up from Amazon, they work perfectly.

$42 DPAccessories 20 Black 12x1.5 Closed End Bulge Acorn Lug Nuts - Cone Seat - 19mm Hex LCB3B6HE-BK04020

https://www.amazon.com/DPAccessories-LCB3B6HE-BK04020-Black-12x1-5-Closed/dp/B00JNEBMCE/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=toyota+tacoma+2002+lug+nuts+small+diameter&pd_rd_i=B00JNEBMCE&pd_rd_r=9ca80ce4-03d3-40e3-bb24-becb58cf5bd8&pd_rd_w=hfV7v&pd_rd_wg=2rDyl&pf_rd_p=d006b618-5fac-44e6-850d-a0fdd19f7847&pf_rd_r=VENCK44CJPSQG9NRPKW3&qid=1560979435&replacementKeywords=lug+nuts+diameter&s=gateway&vehicle=2002-76-1037------------&vehicleName=2002+Toyota+Tacoma&th=1&psc=1

 

Where did you order the valve stems from? I ended up ordering the wheels.

Already went to 3/4 in lug nuts so hopefully those still work.

 

I had them leftover from hardware kits for my trailreadys.

Did you get black or the polished?

 

Black was the only one at that price. I wanted polished though. Been throwing around the idea of painting the centers orange but not sure how that will look.

 

Link ?

 

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-c...-competition-beadlock-alloy-wheels/prod870525

Find your bolt pattern and add to cart from that page. If you click on the wheel it says unavailable. BUYNOW saves 5% and free shipping

 

Got the tires balanced today no vibes up to 75. I have a driveline vibe that comes and goes, I am going to re phase the driveshaft and see if that resolves that. Ditching the spacers and the heavily offset monster truck wheel and tires has really improved the driveability of this thing. The only issue is it wanders a bit more now, but I'll be replacing all the TREs by the end of summer, that may fix that.

 

If it's out of phase it will be bad all the time. Do you have a carrier bearing still?

 

I do. It's a new Toyota one. I need to fix the phasing regardless since I just slapped everything together. Ever since the SAS the truck gets a drivetrain "death wobble" as I can best describe it, where the trans will just start gradually shaking and it gets worse between 60 and 70 depending on gear and throttle position, was really bad with my old wheels and swampers, better with the toyos, now just about gone with the new combo and moving my tcase mount to the rear case and using a rubber mount. The wobble would go away if you slowed down below 60. After phasing I have some new rubber motor mounts to go in where they will get chained.

 

I have a vibe close to take off I've been chasing trying to space my bearing correctly. If it's off a little it can give vibes at different points. That's an odd sounding vibe you have...

 

Yea its really weird and hard to pin down exactly what's going on. My thinking is get rid of all these vibes and shakes and maybe it will go away, all while saving my pennies for a rear fabricated housing and building one of those. Thinking of sticking a go pro under there if can find anyone locally that has one. If I cant find that I plan on adding a forward facing camera for wheeling, I may stick the camera under the truck for a bit to see wtf is going on under there.

If all else fails chuck money at it LOL!!

 

What size are those pro comps? 37s?

 

37x12.50 17

 

Checked the phasing and the rear most section of the rear shaft is within .5* of each yoke being inline, pretty good. The yoke on the tcase end is 7* different than the yoke on the axle end, spec is all yokes have to be within 3* of each other. Looks like I'm dropping the rear driveline after work one day this week to move the center flange a couple of teeth.

 

Getting hardcore on a Sunday here in the garage, big time fab going on....

Changed the oil today and noticed more dirt and gravel in my intake, so my licence plate deflector is not working, so...





So I yanked the intake tube off and covered the hole up with a license plate. I have no idea what to do with that intake, and hell no to a snorkel. I dont need every #EAFBRO #EXPOLYFE #YOLO #INSPIRED #YAKIMARACK Instagram bro blowing their load everytime I stop somewhere and I rarely go in any water, let alone water deep enough to need it. All this shit is being flung off the tires on the trail or on the street. Any ideas?

Also that drain valve I put on my tcase never stopped pissing fluid so off it came and the stock plug back in.

 

I may be able to get my hands on some old conveyor belting, should I make some fender panty liners out of that and put the old intake tube back on?

 

You will like the 1/8" conveyor material. Here is how mine turned out. Very easy to work with.

 

Yea I saw that in you build thread, looks good. Thinking of making a tube of belting around the intake or a mud flap to keep the tire from throwing material right into the intake.

I really like the stock intake setup, seems to suck in cool air and is in an easily identifiable spot if you do end up in water, just sucks if you take the fender liners off.

 

I heard @beertimecontinuum made his own intake one time. Intook the water like a champ!

 

He does excel at taking liquids into holes like a champ!

I'm not like you southern boys, when I see water and mud I drive around it or go slow, not hammer down until the motor stops making noise!!