AC wiring for remote start

Good evening all,

After many hours of research and wiring, I have finally completed my Compustar 7900AS W/Blade AL remote start/alarm system.

I have been messing with it alot and haven't been able to get the AC running with the remote start. I tapped the accessory white wire to the white/green wire in the ignition plug at the steering wheel area and it only turns the blower fan n(on a low speed) and radio on. The AC panel lights come on but the actual controls and ac/recirc button are inoperable.

Can anyone tell me how I can have the AC fully functioning while the vehicle is on via remote start? Will the second ignition require to be switched on as well with the remote start? I was thinking of possibly splicing the accessory wire from the unit to both ign1 and ign2 and diode isolating both ign1 wires but am unsure.

Thanks for your suggestions in advance. Here is a picture of the plug that I am referring to.

 

How about turning your AC on before you shut down the truck. Use the KISS method.

 

Without auto climate control you have to simply remember.

Another surefire way to ensure the AC is on is to leave it on Defrost. Defrost always triggers AC on all Tacomas.

 

You need to power your second start wire and your second ignition wire. Run the blue selectable wire from the compustar to the second ignition wire. Make sure the jumper is set for second ignition. Then take the positive parking light wire, and hook that to you second start wire. Set the jumper to start and replace the fuse with something a little bigger. Use the thin green/white - parking light wire for your lights. This way you won’t have to add any external relays

 

I apologize for not giving more information. To clarify, the AC is kept on when I leave the vehicle. When I use the remote start, the AC does not turn on until I insert the key into the 2nd position, which is why I believe there should be another wire tapped to be powered on with the remote start.

The blower motor comes on at a fixed low speed (even lower than the lowest setting) along with the AC panel lighting and radio.This is a condition of wiring the alarm/remote start harness accessory wire into the vehicle accessory wire.

 

I have the first and second starter wire as well as ignition 1 hooked up. I also have an starter lock spliced between first starter wiring. The jumper is currently set to starter 2 and is powered through the internal relay.

Your post made me think a bit and I believe I can utilize your idea. So from your post, the ignition has a higher load than the starter 2? I see you prioritized that by hooking it up via the selectable jumper/blue wire.

Maybe I should trigger ignition 2 via relay to come on with parking lights and diode isolate, just to be safe. I don't usually prefer upsizing fuses and I believe the ignition 2 may have a larger draw than anticipated.

 

You need to power all the ignition wires as they are normally powered. Usually on some vehicles what we’ll do is not power the second accessory wire if the vehicle has it. Usually second accessory powers items like your wipers and radio. These aren’t necessary for remote starting the vehicle. However when a vehicle had a second ignition wire and starter wire these power other computers/modules within the vehicle. Not doing so can throw a check engine light and cause the vehicle to have issues. Every vehicle is different. It’s recommended to use relays not diodes. If you wanted to split the output and diode isolate you would need at least 6amp diodes. It’s not worth the trouble. The blue wire on the compustar has always been programmable. The parking light used to only be a +light or +truck output. Now they added +start output via the jumper. Utilizing the internal relays will be the easiest and cleanest install.

If you powered the ignition as a parking light it will have power when you lock, and unlock. Also it won’t power the ignition fully until after the truck started. This will probably cause issues.

Professional installation is always recommended. I’ve seen lots of people fry BCM’s, ECU’s, blow out parking light switches and a few burn up wires.

 

That is good insight, especially with the issue of the ign 2 being turned on while locking and unlocking. I will throw the multimeter on ign 2 and try powering that through the white accessory wire.

I have alot of 12v 50 amp diodes (door triggers) and have a myriad of other electrical accessories installed (led pods, bumper lights, cb and ham radio + additional fuse/relay block and distribution blocks) and have done all of the work on my vehicles in my entire lifetime. I am stubborn and like to teach myself mechanical and electrical systems and usually will figure it out. I have never dealt with a vehicle with two separate starter and ignitions and have learned a great deal so far about the Tacoma.

I do appreciate everyone's input and believe I know what to do next. Will update when I finish it tomorrow.

Edit: now that I think about it, the jumper selection has always specified starter 2, ignition 2 and acc for the blue wire. I will verify whether acc out from alarm white wire will be sufficient.

 

Here’s how you want to hook up the wiring.

yellow (start) to black/white

Green/white (set jumper to start and change fuse) to green/black

Green (ignition) to black/red

Blue (set jumper to ignition) to blue/yellow

White (accessory) to white/green



White/blue is 12v at 50amps
White/red is 12v at 30.

 

Ok I see what you did and have written everything down to map it out.

The only thing is that I only saw one jumper under the access door. The manual states the green/white is programmable and achieved using jumpers but from my understanding, only the blue wire output is modified using the single existing jumper. There is only one jumper on the control module itself. Am I able to utilize another jumper and have two jumpers used in that area? I will have to take a peek later and verify everything.

 

Does that unit use a CM7000 or a CM900 brain? Assuming if there is only 1 jumper than it’s a 900 brain

 

Oddly enough, the unit is sold as a 7900as but the brain itself is a cm900as. I found a diagram to help myself understand better and it is quite clear now.

 

Disregard, I looked it up. Ok the 7900AS uses the cheaper CM
900 module. The primary (positive) parking light wire isn’t selectable. What they are talking about is the secondary wire is programmable. Unless you have an option programmer or a web link updater, you won’t be able to program any of the secondary outputs to trigger an additional relay. Did you order your blade preprogrammed or did you flash it yourself?

So for the starter wires you’ll have to use the yellow wire to trigger 2 relays or you can split that wire and diode isolate the two from each other.

 

I did in fact purchase the blade AL with a weblink updater and configured/flashed it myself along with the main unit. I will take a look at the options through the updater later today to see if there is a viable solution. I did also think of the same solution you did with splitting the yellow starter wire from the brain.

 

Ok so the parking light high current relay wire (green/white) is selectable through the idatalink configuration. I can allocate it to starter output but it is 10a max. I am unable to discern at this moment from my current resources if 10a is ample current to trigger starter 2 effectively and may have to utilize a relay just to be safe.

I will then move the parking lights to a grounded source from connector cn1 (previously 10a + green/white) to cn3 ( - green/white). Polarity may need to be reversed using additional relays if I want to connect it to the old parking light + wire from the vehicle. Edit: I found some information stating parking light - is purple/red at the front of fuse box on the 12 pin connector OR green at light switch harness.

Edit: Here is what the configuration screen looks like from my end with the options shown.

 

I have found the second half of the STA relay diagram to the starter. Posting here for future reference.

 

Here's the complete starter schematic. When I 1st looked at this a long time ago, I realized that this is a really goofy circuit. ST1 supplies power to the starter relay coil through the NSS switch or clutch switch. ST2 supplies power to the relay contact. Any normal person would have supplied battery constant power to the relay contact. That's just how relays are done.

https://www.customtacos.com/tech.ol...6toyewd/06toypdf/ewd/2006/tacoma/h/em01d0.pdf

 

Hmmm that’s interesting, set it for start and just swap out the 10 amp fuse to like 25. It’s fused on the power side so it won’t really matter. You could eliminate the fuse all together if you really wanted. It’s purpose is really because it’s default a parking light and those circuits are usually fused at 10-15 amps. After changing that configuration just be sure to test and make sure it is actually putting out 12v during crank and doesn't have 12v any other time

 

Thanks for all of the information guys. This is a gold mine. I do appreciate you all taking the time to convey your input on this. All that is left for me to do now is to wire it all up.

 

Thank you for all of your contributions to this thread. I have wired everything up and ac now turns on with the remote start!