Recovery Q&A and help.

Can you get 7/16? How much? (am in Vancouver, BC)

 

Probably. But that wasn’t an advertisement

Here’s a few spools of 1000ish feet of 1-3/4” dyneema they had

 

Call around I’m sure you’ll be able to find a decent price on it locally

 

Never used one, but as far as i can tell, to get the weight rating for a pull, it says that's a double line which means you'll need a snatch block to double the line back to the vehicle. That means you only have 17ft at best. And you'll likely need to leave a few wraps on the come along which leaves you with 16ft max reach.

To make that useable in the real world, you're still going to need a snatch block, tree strap, extensions for the very likely possibility that you won't reach anything 16ft away, shackles to tie it all together.

If you use it in a single line configuration, you're looking at 6k limit. Put a stock Tacoma in a little mud and the added resistance can easily get you over that limit

IMO if you wanted a less expensive solution than a winch, buying all of those same extras you'll need with that thing, adding another strap and using a hi lift jack could be a better solution.

Of course it also depends on what type of circumstances you see yourself needing it for. Mud, sand, snow, steep inclines, etc.

And... I just purchased a 9.5k smittybilt winch new with cable for my trailer and it was only $399, slightly more than that.

 

Do you guys have the tools to repair this on the spot?



I was alone, but was able to get it re seated in about 10 minutes. I had quick start specifically for this reason. Hi lift it up, quick start the bead it popped right back on, then air it up. Then back down to trail pressure.

 

Nice, I've heard you can get it off the vehicle or just take the weight off and use a ratchet strap around the middle of the tread to squeeze it onto the rim. With an air tank, might be able to get it to pop on.

I've tried the starter fluid once after i busted a tire off the bead, but there was also a huge gash i didn't see, so it didn't work.

 

Wrapping a ratchet strap around the tire can also help with reseating of the bead. Sometimes, tires are stubborn, and don't want to seat.

EDIT: This method will work without an air tank.

 

Tire shops just seat the bead by pulling the bead up into the wheel by hand with air hooked up. Which works great, if the tire is completely off the ground. I couldn’t quite get mine off the ground here without a lot more work. But with ether I got it seated with no trouble. A quick spray around the bead and hit it with a lighter and it literally just seated the bead right on right there no problem. Everyone should haveether and an air compressor for sure.

 

Winter parking lot recovery?

So with winter here, I like to do parking lot and side road recovery to help people out. Money is tight for many due to the holidays, and paying a tow truck to put them back on the road is a major setback for any low income family with kids (I used to be one, and still live in a low income area)
I stay away from the busy highways where I leave it to the pros, but parking lots and side streets are where I do it.


In the past I have always just used a 80 foot chain or a 20 foot strap depending on where they are stuck, but I had older ugly 4wds that I didnt care if they got any damage.

So, what do you guys use for snow recovery of other peoples cars?

 

I don’t do it anymore. Too much liability, people are stupid and never know what to do during a recovery and don’t listen to instructions.

 

I think it depends on the situation.
and keep in mind liability...

Never use chain because it can’t take a sudden jolt like a strap. Let them hook it to there car, then go back and look yourself. And if you think it’s fine then proceed.

Another option are the traction boards. But no matter how many time you tell them to not spin tires on the boards they will and it’s you that is going to shell out money for new boards because it’s not a warranty item.

 

I dont do it for everyone, I generally feel the person out first. If they look like they have worked on their own car or they look a little rough then I will. We have a decent sized hispanic population in my area, I dont even have question them, just hand them the chain and away we go.


I thought about traction boards, but like you said, they will burn up right away. I used the chain for dragging, or flat towing where there is no need to get a running start. Ive since lost or tossed all my old recovery stuff since it saw many years and was getting in pretty rough shape.

I am almost thinking of just getting a winch and bumper.... I can use it for offroad and recovery in parking lots.

 

If you are going to do it, there is the liability. People have said "let the stuck person hook the strap to their vehicle, which takes some liability away." Not sure how much truth is in that.

Here's a quick list of some good stuff i suggest... A chain is a no no for pulling a vehicle out of a ditch IMO. They are useful, just not ideal for this situation.

If you want a chain, at least grade 80, but usually it is better suited for attaching to the frame or solid rock sliders for side stability or an attachment to roll a vehicle back over.
https://amzn.to/2UxPAJF

A frame key cluster is good for when there isn't a good recovery point.
https://amzn.to/2Utm5sj

A static recovery strap
https://amzn.to/2EkY2H7

5/8 shackle with good load limit
https://amzn.to/2EbUTbX

3/4" shackle
https://amzn.to/2E7dRAa

Kinetic strap
https://amzn.to/2UAevw6

Arb kinetic
https://amzn.to/2E7di9w

Hitch pin
https://amzn.to/2L6fZd0

You should pull using forward gears (don't be backing up when you are pulling people out since your reverse gear has a much better chance of shearing off teeth.)

Putting the strap inside your hitch receiver and using a hitch pin is the safest way to connect to your or their vehicle. That is one of the things that some of the rope straps don't work for since you can't put them into the receiver where a flat strap will typically fit.

Static strap won't stretch... Don't jerk on those.

Kinetic or snatch straps will stretch so you can give it a yank and it won't jerk. They allow more momentum.

For example, my mostly stock xj had no chance pulling a completely buried 100 series out of the snow when completely buried with a static strap (like a chain). But i was able to use a kinetic strap and get a running start which gave me the needed momentum to pull that heavy beast loose.

Smaller (5/8") shackles are better for attaching to cars that only have stock hooks where 3/4" are too large. That's where a frame hook cluster comes into play... They fit in the holes in the frame and give you a good recovery point. DO NOT use frame hooks with a kinetic strap since you are usually jerking and the frame hooks can and will likely move and may slingshot back at you.

I agree wholly with not using maxtrax or similar for typical people... You'll end up with broken stuff the first or second time of using them.

 

So, after putting that list up and remembering a friend who made an easier list to use, I did the same so it can easily be adjusted and/or added and subtracted from.

Vehicle recovery basics list
http://a.co/9mP2Ry2

And I also went ahead and did a vehicle go bag/survival bag
http://a.co/5ejOllS

For both lists, I chose items that I would not worry about having in my kit. You can always upgrade items to better that will be more expensive or swap similar prices for a brand/style/color that matches what you want.

Vehicle Recovery List:
More shackles and straps are better (especially the inexpensive static straps). With extra tree savers or longer straps, it will allow you to do things like use your hi lift as a winch (I've used it by itself and I've used it as a secondary winch while I was using my winch. The hi lift kept the rear of the truck from sliding off the edge. Another main component are the shackles. Having more is always better than less. As with some of the examples I showed earlier in this thread, a simple recovery done safely requires a bunch of straps and shackles.

You might ask why I put a winch extension and snatch block on there if you dont have a winch. You can use that extension and a snatch block just like you would if you had a winch. Make sure snatch blocks are always only used for either synthetic or cable. Once you use one with a cable winch line, never use it for synthetic again because it will rip the rope with the cuts the cable puts into the metal. I had an ARB and the smittybilt that I listed and only ever used the smittybilt. And it was used a lot!

This is not a complete list, but just a good idea for starters, or a good refresher/reminder of some small item that you might've overlooked.

Vehicle survival bag:
Again, i put items that I would trust. For most of the stuff, the multiple packs were just as cheap as a single item in which case the multiples were put in the cart. Its never a bad idea to throw those items in another vehicle, backpack, or use them to create a second bag.

This also is not a complete list, but just a good idea for starters, or a good refresher/reminder of some small item that you might've overlooked.

The lists will change as I add/subtract or substitute items. If there is something I forgot, let me know and I'll put it on there. Or if you have a question of why something is on there, ask away!

 

This has a lot of great information. Thanks!

 

If you’re using a strap to wrap someone’s bumper or frame I would suggest a continuous loop sling and a small piece of carpet. The loop can always be rotated so the portion in contact with the vehicle is never the same and the carpet can be used as an extra protection buffer.

 

Those power pullers have a handle that bends to prevent you from overloading it. I got my 1960 F-100 stuck in the mud pointed uphill with a load of wood. No winch and the nearest tree was way up the hill. We had 5 chains a strap 2 high lift Jack's and a come along all rigged up to reach the tree. The come along worked only to take up the slack the pulling was done by the jacks. It took 8 hrs to get it on solid ground. the high lift Jack is a far more useful tool IMHO.

 

is this adequate for 'emergency' carry:

$47 Rhino USA Shackle Hitch Receiver (Fits 2" Receivers) Best Towing Accessories for Trucks, Jeep, Toyota & More - Connect Your Rhino Tow Strap for Vehicle Recovery, Mounts to 2" Receiver Hitches

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLMF23...colid=FW9PP3O81TJ9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

thanks

 

My $0.02 would be to only trust rigging rated to a standard such as ASME or ANSI, which this is unlikely to be. However the part that goes in your receiver is just a hunk of steel so it's easy to trust if you just use a name brand shackle in place of the generic unknown one.