Cincinnati Area Thread (Tri-State, Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana)

Holy shit man! Very glad to hear you're okay after that!

 

That’s why I asked you who made them

 

I've already got one pile of junk, def don't need another one.

You should buy it

 

I got them on eBay. Search

Tacoma Black Projector Headlight

I think the seller was OEM Massive

 

Worth the purchase.

Also worth the purchase,
LockNLube Grease Coupler

$33 LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i1GqDbQM87H9G

Unless you want to grease your front driveshaft, have the coupling get stuck on the zerk, swear at it, remove it from grease gun only to still be stuck then have to drop a skid plate to remove the little fucker.

YMMV

 

Haha, thanks for the tip. Dropped my tire pressure to 32 psi yesterday and the truck rides pretty smooth now up to about 50 mph. Gonna try to grease the U joints this weekend and see if that helps with the highway vibration. If not, the next step will be to remove the rear driveshaft and test drive it in 4H.

Also went ahead and ordered MOOG LCAs with new ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends and sway bar end links. All those parts are 10+ years and 109k miles old so they need to be replaced anyway. Both the new outer tie rod ends and sway bar links have zerks for grease so I’ll get my moneys worth out of a new grease gun I guess. Hoping to tackle that project next Saturday if anyone wants to lend a hand. I know I’ll need to find some giant wrenches for the inner tie rod swap...

 

Just need a big pipe wrench for the inner tie rods. Very easy as they are not very tight at all...those stupid bent-over things keep it from backing off.

 

I just recently did my inners with @beertimecontinuum and @Breezy lending hands and beers. Along with a few other things back in spring.
Holler if you need any help and I can at least answer questions. No big wrenches needed really, maybe a cut off wheel and a pipe wrench and a torch to heat it.

Throw the sway bar in the trash, though.

Those were a bit of a pain, but enough prying instruments of all imagination will eventually get them out the way.

 

@MedlinAround what did you end up doing to cure your similar vibe that @09TRDSport4x4 has?

 

Turned the radio up a little louder











Pretty sure mine is my tires. I had one that leaked for quite a while and it seems to be warn just a hair different than the rest. Wasn't too bad until i put about 40psi of air in all of them to wear the middle a little better. It's made the humming a little worse but whatever.

Also for the inner tie rods, just go to Autozone or somewhere and rent a puller. Works like a charm and you just put your ratchet in the end of it and barely turn to get it out. (After removing the clip that holds in in of course).

 

I’m actually torn about the sway bar... I don’t want to remove it because I do the majority of my driving on pavement and there are plenty of curvy roads around here. But on the flip side, it would be nice to remove it to see if it’s causing any of the noise I hear over bumps. I’m going to put the new sway bar end links in with all the other new parts and see if I’ve still got the noise. Then I’ll decide whether to yank it out or leave it.

My biggest concern is still the vibration in the cab. If I can’t narrow that down to a driveshaft issue and the new LCAs and tie rod ends don’t fix it I’ll be stumped for sure. I guess it could be tire or wheel spacer related... but I swapped the spacers and that didn’t change anything and the tech at Discount Tire has me convinced the tires are actually balanced now. Plus, the vibration has been there since they went on so I doubt it’s an uneven wear issue.

I can feel a very slight vibration at take off (nowhere near as bad as on the oem two piece shaft) that wasn’t there when the one piece shaft first went in, which leads me to believe my issue is driveshaft related. I’m betting one of the U joints is shot or on its way out but we’ll see if some grease smooths things out. The truck actually feels really good up to 50 mph and if I can fix the vibration and get the new suspension stuff installed, I’m hoping for a much better overall ride quality.

 

Where is the vibe? All over? In the floor? In the pedals? Steering wheel?

 

It’s not in the steering wheel but can be felt coming up through the wheel. The passenger seat shakes horribly on the highway and I can feel it in my seat, through the floor and if I reach behind me and touch the rear floor board I can feel it there too. I’d say it’s basically all over.

It also started out only between 50-60 mph and can now be felt at 50+

 

Carrier bearing in good shape?

 

Some dick hole didn’t put extra sticky wheel weights on your driveshaft did they? I’ve been guilty of doing that to friends before. But really. I’d check those U-joints, carrier barring and maybe even have the driveshaft checked/rebalanced

 

Don’t have a carrier bearing. I have a custom built one piece rear driveshaft. It’s possible that is has become unbalanced but since it’s less than a year old I think it’s more likely one of the U joints is dry or failing. Will know more once I get under there and grease them.

 

Tighten your U-bolts?

 

Another good thing to check. It’s been a while since the rear springs have been touched. I’ll check that too while I’m under there!

 

Cant remember what the aCtUAl torque SpeCs are but consensus is that they need to be torqued to really facking tight.

 

It's 55 ft-lbs.