Fitting 35's on 3" suspension lift

Sorry man I’m running with my pops and his old Jeep buddies for this one. Not even sure I’ll get my truck ready in time. Got some coilovers to rebuild and my the mount for my Crawl box case broke.

 

What gear ratio are you running right now?

 

5.29.

 

Then I’d say go for it if you’re not planning on axle swapping anytime soon! Tubbing sucks balls, but it’s pretty straightforward. And with your crawler, that truck on IFS and 35s would be VERY capable for a long time while you gather SAS parts.

Also, @cynicalrider would be a good resource for what you might run into as far as wheeling 35s hard and breaking IFS parts I don’t go nearly as HAM as much as Mike does so I’m not much help there...

 

By all means, throw 35's on there... There's plenty of good threads on tubbing to fit 35's... Heck I've played with the thought of 35's as well. All im saying is that I don't think you'll see a huge gain on the trails by going to 35's over what you have now.... And I bet that @Fernando saw his performance gains from lockers... Not tire size.

I ran 255/85 Toyo MT's for 3 years... When new they were 33.5" tall. A comparable 315/75 measures 34.6"... So you're only gaining 1/2" of height at the ground.

I was just giving a data point, don't base you're off-road capability solely off of tire size unless that's what your heart desires and you want the look. All else being equal, I guarantee the jump from 33's to 35's will only net you minimal trail performance.

 

Ehh. Extra clearance helps too man. Not dragging ass helps. Lol

 

I’m not trying to argue this with you. All of your points are valid and necessary for looking at this objectively. I am aware of what it takes to fit the tires. I am aware of the measurements of each size.

I was simply asking those who have them if they feel the cost is worth the reward.

1/2” GC isn’t huge, but belly height is the limiting factor for me right now. That’s why I’m considering this in the first place. Technical wheeling is definitely a game of inches. I’m sure there are many places where 1/2” is the difference in making an obstacle and pulling line because my diff is anchored on a rock.

 

Its just the rational me that's arguing, otherwise I'm totally with you... I've thought about changing skids from my current set up as they limit my belly height by 3/4 "fromt stock one... Nevermind they're 1/4 "thick and can support the weight of the truck

 

Do it. Unfortunately I can't compare directly with a 33" tire to a 35" tire since I jumped from 32's to 35's but I remember hitting the same trails again at the the local offroad park on 35's and going through a trail I would typically be slamming through every 20 feet or so, to hearing a rock contact my skid once. It was an eye opener for me on the difference the tires made.

Here is a post on height gains, the comparison might not be helpful to you, but the final height of the bottom of the rear diff might be. Looked like 11 3/4" height when the tires were new.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-01-build-thread.290011/page-18#post-12892505

So as far as breaking parts go, I have so far broken a stub shaft, a cv, blown a power steering pump, and spider gears in the front diff. BUT typically there were explanations for all of it, and sometimes could be avoided.

The stub shaft I was on a steep incline, locked front and rear, and I was bouncing. That's asking for trouble no matter the tire size.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pw0ExgyJGpA

The CV happened when I was bound up in the front with the front locker on. Literally had the wheels straight but a bunch of rocks were holding the bottom back and front of the tire to keep it from spinning. The spiders happened pre-front locker, climbing something retarded steep with a bunch of weight on the front end. The front locker now keeps the spiders held in much better with less risk of deflection. The steering is something I see taking the most hits from the change in tire size. I am planning on adding an external cooler to hopefully help with it along with a new OEM pump.

I think the biggest thing you would notice personally is aired down height. In my experience tall skinnies like yours flatten out a ton only aired down a little bit. I can air my 35's down to 9psi, have it wrap around rocks but still maintain a decent rolling height. But that's just what I've seen wheeling with others on tall skinnies, I know you aren't interested but it would make more of a difference than you think.


TL-DR - I wouldn't trade my 35's for 33's any day. I'd kill to go to 37's if I could but I know that can't happen on IFS unless I SAS or go LT. There is nothing better you can do for a hard wheeler than go up in tire size and increase ground clearance.

 

This this this ^^^

I cant drop my 255s below 12 or they squat like crazy. That's what started this whole thing. To combat this, my original plan was to move to a bias ply tire because they will stand up at like 0psi haha. I was going to run the interco LTB in 34x10.5. Those tires don't deflect at all until you're in the mid single digits of pressure, so that means beadlocks. That's where the beadlock plan in my build came from. After running the math, I'd end up with more weight per corner with the steel beadlock plus the 34" (actually 33.8) than I would be with my current wheels and a 35. So essentially more weight and very close or less to the same height when aired down.

My CVs are definitely the weak point, which is good. That stub shaft you blew was crazy. I remember reading that. haha. Do you ever get steering fade when it gets hot wheeling?

 

Never got fade, it was just there and then it was gone when it finally went, but the pump has been whining for like a month after I put it on, and that was like mid 2017 before it finally blew last month. It was a reman though, and I feel like there was always something wrong with the system. So now I have a brand new OEM rack (brand new as of summer 2017 that is) a new OEM pump, new lines, cooler and a inline filter going in soon. Hoping it helps.

Honestly your biggest concern no matter the tire size is the front locker combined with your crawl box in bound up situations. The crawl box puts out stupid amounts of torque and if you are locked up front and bound up the metal will snap. But you should be hearing/dealing with a ton of resistance and should hopefully have a spotter telling you you are bound up before you go to snap city. I've seen the craziest snaps with doublers. A second gen had a rock inside the dish of his wheel, holding the thing from spinning with the rear locker on and using the crawl box. Snapped the rear axle clean. Same thing with another second gen crawl box and front locker and rock stuck inside the dish. He actually twisted off his entire ADD tube.

 

Yep. Fortunately, I've already felt the bind up followed by bang phenomenon. haha. Looking back, there was plenty of time to let off and all would have been fine. However, the truck was laid over at what felt like about 45*, I was trying to drive with one hand and winch with the other at the same time. All I had to do was let off the throttle or release the winch tension, but I had too much going on the be able to think. Haha.

 

My wheel and tire setup is driving me crazy; I don't want to deal with spacers any more when tearing into the front especially on the trail. Going to do DIY beadlocks and start by ordering a wheel to mock things up with. Since DIY beadlocks add about a 1.5-2.0" width does it seem crazy to start with 17x9s? I can't find a 17x8 steelie with 3.5" BS

3.5" BS should clear the tire on the UCA without spacers. 2.5 Seems like it would be too much.

$154 Pro Comp 97 Series Rock Crawler Monster Mod, 17x9 Wheel with 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern - Black - 97-7983S3.5

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-c...attern-black-97-7983s3-5/_/R-FPWF-97-7983S3.5


EDIT:

I found 17x8s (SOFT 8 17 X8 6-139.70 -12 BKGLXX) with 4" BS but I'm not confident that the tire will clear the UCAs with 12.5" wides

 

I had issues with steering fade before my PS pump died. I added in a very large cooler when I changed out the pump and haven't had issues since.

 

I jinxed it and killed my 2nd PS pump in 6 months.

Has anyone run a Saginaw TC style pump with the steering rack?

 

I really hope it wasn't because of your filter like you thought. Was it a brand new OEM one?

 

It was a NAPA New pump. I lost the receipt but the store said when I pull it and bring it in they can try and replace it under warranty.

 

I just happened to be reading about some SAS stuff and it brought up the idea. Even when the pump is working my steering has always been underwhelming on 35s

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/695814-drop-replacement-ho-steering-pump.html

Saginaw pumps are what PSC and TG sell as the solution for weak steering after going SFA

 

I'm still on little 34s, but I'd try a new OEM pump and a cooler before anything else. I had 2 napa remans and they were both junk in comparison.

Current pump have been good for a couple years now.

 

The first pump that I killed was an OEM and the NAPA one was the second best available at the time. I put in a pretty good size cooler after killing that OEM pump as well as an inline filter.