Harmonic pulley

Hey Everyone, I'm done a search and not seeing exactly this thing I'm wondering about. So forgive and link me if the thread already exists. Thanks in Advance

So I have a 2003 Taco Pre-Runner 2.7l. I just replaced my AC compressor because I noticed it wasn't working obviously, but it was because the belt slipped off the pulley towards the compressor and wore through the clutch engaging wire, so I cut the belt off until I could get new parts ordered. So I purchased new belts also. So after I replaced the compressor and the belts. While I was replacing the belts, I noticed that the pulley closest to the engine block was slipping off what seemed to be rubber. I'm thinking this is what people are referring to as the Harmonic Balancer. It also seems by parts break down to be separate from the further two pulleys.
So here are the questions:
1) Can I just replace the one pulley, see #2 in illustration? Or will I need to replace #1 also?
2) Does the radiator need to be removed to do this? seems a little tight but thought I should ask just to verify before I pulled it out.
3) I've read that the torque is crazy high and that to remove the bolt either an impact gun, a pulley removal tool, or the "start bump" method was used. I have a Ryobi 18V impact drill, will that be sufficient? I've searched the "start bump" method, but must be missing it amongst all the posts that have mentioned it. What exactly is that?
4) will the engine seal cover(#12) also need replacing?

Go easy on the flaming and Thanks hopefully for some help

 

Bump starter method. Exactly how I've done it except breaker bar against the frame, not a spring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkeDnSeCEoE

You don't have to remove the radiator, unless you want to try your impact.

You don't have to replace the seal.

 

1) You should be able to just replace the bad pulley.

3) See this thread for tool to hold pulley when tightening the bolt. It can be used to loosen, but an impact wrench or starter bump method is easier when loosening.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/homemade-crank-pulley-tool.140646/

4) No need to replace that seal unless you want to or it's leaking. The timing chain is behind this. People usually replace the oil seal on engines with a timing belt when replacing the timing belt so they don't have to remove the timing belt again later. In your case on this engine it's a little less work to get to the seal if you need to change it later.

The seal is actually in the oil pump cover. I'll just mention now if you ever need to remove that, the screws are really easy to strip. You would only need to remove the oil pump cover if its gasket were leaking or you had a hard time getting the crankshaft seal out.

 

So will I just unplug all four of the ignition coils instead? I have the 2.7l 3RZ four cylinder engine.
Also, what about tightening then? will it be able to tightened straight out (no need for a trick of any sort)?

 

You don't need to unplug shit. Just brace wrench well with a little tension on the bolt, turn key to start for 0.5 seconds then turn key to off.

You need a tool to hold the pulley when tightening. If you have a manual trans you may be able to put it in 5th gear with someone holding the brake pedal down and get enough torque on the bolt. With auto trans you need a pulley holding tool.