Ken the electrical guy Q n A

Hey everyone

I wanted to open up this thread for anyone who has an electrical project coming up and wanted to ask questions. I know electrical can be difficult and confusing for some so I hope that I can help bridge the gap. If you want to learn I’m here to help.
Edit: This page is for anyone who has any electrical questions, projects, and or information to teach everyone. All are invited to contribute.
-Ken



(Electricians Rubiks cube)

 

Please keep this available in the coming future. I have a lot of electrical to do, but am not able to do it now. I'm collecting the necessaries while I bide my time until that yet-to-be-named free weekend (or two).
It would really be great to know this thread is here for those scratch me head, smack the relay with a hammer type scenarios I know I'll get myself into.

Cheers for offering!!

 

Thanks! I don't have any specific questions per se, but I will take any suggestions regarding the following:

$630 ARB CKMTA12 '12V' On-Board Twin High Performance Air Compressor, Ideal for Air Lockers Locking Differentials, Tire Inflator, Air Horn, Air Tools and Pneumatic Tools.

ARB Dual Compressor,
ARB Front Locker,
Air Lift Wireless Air Compressor,

$564 SmittyBilt X2O-10K WATERPROOF SYN - SB98510

Smittybilt x20 winch,
Rock Lights,

Cobra 75 WX ST Compact/Remote Mount CB Radio with Weather and SoundTracker

Cobra 75 CB,
2 Low Mod,
MESO ECT relocated to AT Knob,
Front Camera Install,

$26 Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block 6 Way Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover, 100 Amps

Blue Sea 6 Blade,

$70 Blue Sea Systems 7042 187-Series Circuit Breaker, Panel Mount, 80A

80 Amp Breaker,
Blue Sea Low Voltage Disconnect,

$28 WNI 4 AWG 4 Gauge 5 Feet Black + 5 Feet Red Battery Welding Pure Copper Ultra Flexible Cable + 5pcs of 5/16" & 5pcs 3/8" Copper Cable Lug Terminal Connectors + 3 Feet Heat Shrink Tubing

4 AWG wire

$70 Auxiliary Power Fuse Block Bracket Updated Design Compatible with 3rd Gen 2016-Present Toyota Tacoma.

Aux fuse panel bracket

$1,212 Rigid Industries E-Series PRO 30" SPOT MIDNIGHT LED LIGHT BAR w/Black Housing

30" Rigid lightbar

 

bad ass! Looks like you have some fun stuff coming your way. If you have any specific questions I’ll be glad to help

 

Sure buddy this is why I made it. I’m happy that you find it beneficial

 

I would recommend taking all of the accessories you’re going to be adding and writing down a rough drawing of where they are in the truck and what current they draw. Do your calculation and rough drawing and this will allow you to visualize everything. Depending on your experience and level of skill you will be able to know roughly how long and what wires will need to go where. This will allow you to decide on what you’ll need to accomplish it

 

Is that your latest project?

 

Ha no it’s not...I’m currently designing an overhead switch panel for first gen Tacoma’s, finishing my bed electrical panel, and some other goodies

 

Hey I'm looking to wire up an ADD switch for my prerunner 4x4 conversion and was wondering if I could somehow rig up a push button switch (like an oem one in the space beside the steering wheel) instead of using a double throw toggle. I just dont know how I would make an on/off switch into a double pole momentary?

 

Congrats on your conversion bud I finished up mine about 6 months ago and I love it. I’m glad you asked this because it’s something I haven’t done yet.

we can figure it out bud, is the factory button on the transfer case shifter a momentary or off on? Relocating the switch will be very simple once we understand how it works. If it’s simple on/off switch then we can utilize any on off switch of your choosing.
If the switch is a momentary double pole double throw switch you’ll just have to make sure you double check for polarity each position. Let me see if I can find something in the FSM wiring diagrams

 

I am using FJ cruiser transfer case so only "electronics" is the front diff add actuator. Pins im using are 1,2,5,&6. 1 and 2 are power/ground (reversible for movement needed) and 5 and 6 are the limit switches in the motor, I was planning on using them to illuminate led or something but technically all I need is 1 and 2 for movement.

 

Ok so what you need to do is this. Get your self a double pole double throw relay. This relay allows for reverse polarity across a two wire system (your 1 & 2 pins). You’ll get a momentary On off on switch. One side of the switch will be the trigger for one polarity of your choosing (for example up with be out) the other side of the switch will trigger the reverse polarity( for example down will be in ). If you’d like I can draw you up a wiring diagram. The leds can be wired in parallel with the limit switches in the motor. Assuming these are ground switches you’ll just power the leds with switched or constant 12v and will illumate when the limit switch grounds

 

Whats the best wire length/amp and gauge table or calculator you’ve used?

Thanks!

 

I'm a fan of this one:

 

I would love a diagram!

 

Thanks! I'll do that. Both compressors have wiring harnesses that should be long enough, they should also have relays too. I'll do the rough drawing as recommended and run it by my brother who is an electrician and will be helping me with the bulk of the installation.

I also have a Northstar Cab Over camper with 7 pin plug and a 14' Crestliner Fishing Boat with a 4 pin trailer plug. Any recommendations on type and size of Battery? (assuming I'll need to replace stock, and, I'd like to avoid a dual battery setup). Should I be looking at High Output alternator?

Edit: I'm also considering adding a light bar like this

$1,212 Rigid Industries E-Series PRO 30" SPOT MIDNIGHT LED LIGHT BAR w/Black Housing

30" Rigid

 

you got it! I have one drawn up but I want to make sure I give you correct information. I’m trying to find one more piece information about the actuator before I send it your way.

 

Awesome man thanks so much!

 

Wow your really going for it! It’s hard to say what brand of battery you should use. A lot of people are using odyssey for the size and capacity. They are pricey though. If you plan on using your accessories while the truck is off I would highly recommend going dual battery. It’s really comes down to the numbers. If you only plan on using a lot of accessories only while the truck is running you’ll want to think about a HO alternator. The thing that most people won’t mention is duty cycle. Almost of companies boast high numbers but it’s important to look at what rpm are these outputs at? For how long can the alternator maintain this output? a lot of alternators reach those high numbers at high rpm. Are you planning on using these accessories while the truck is at high rpm or on trails? On a trail your rpm will relatively low making all those high numbers they posted useless to you. Planning is everything, sit down and write what you’ll be using, when you’ll be using it, and then match that with a unit that will be a little more than you need.


For example police cars, ambulances, fire trucks, and high end out put alternator companies will use a 90-100% duty cycle. This means you can run that puppy at full output without it causing an issue. If you get a HO alternator that has a duty cycle of say 50% you’ll get half the output after a relatively short period of time. Not to mention running an alternator at a output that exceeds it capabilities is a good way to burn it up
These are things to consider when shopping for an alternator.
Utilize your brother he’ll save you a lot of head aches and he’ll know exactly what I’m talking about